University  of  California  •  Berkeley 

THE  PETER  AND  ROSELL  HARVEY 
MEMORIAL  FUND 


A  DESCRIPTIVE  NARRATIVE. 


HISTORY  AND  TRAVELS 


-OF    A- 


Wanderer   in    Many   States   and    Places   of 

Interest  in  this   Fair  Land 

of    Ours 


•BY- 


Amanda   E.   Miller   Bates 

NORMAL,  ILLINOIS. 


BLOOMINOTOK,  ILLIMOIC 

Pantagraph  Printing  and  Stationery  Co., 

Printers  and  Binderi. 


Copyright,    1900. 
AMANDA  E.  MILLER  BATES. 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS. 


Dedication 5 

Preface 6 

California '7 

Chinaman's  Ranch 15 

Los  Angeles t 17 

Homeward  Bound 25 

Visit  to  Salt  Lake 27 

Great  Salt  Lake  City , 31 

Lecture  on  Mormons  37 

Trip  to  Arizona 41 

The  Mountain  Hunter 76 

Letter  from  S.  C.  Miller,  Arizona  Pioneer 78 

How  I  Escaped  Apaches 85 

New  Mexico 88 

World's  Fair 95 

Poem:  "Insulator  Shoe" ..  100 

Niagara 102> 

Biltmore 104 

Washington,  District  of  Columbia 105 

Mt.  Vernon '. H6 

Poem:  "George  Washington" 118 

Indians  at  Paris  Exposition 120 

Poem  "Zacheus." 126 

Attica,  Indiana,  Lithia  Springs  Hotel 1 27 

Poem,  "Man  of  Attica" 131 

Indiana  Mineral  Springs 133 

Success 135 

Poem:  "When  the  Sun  GoesDown" 139 


DEDICATION. 


To  my  beloved  pupils,  and  teachers,  to  whom  I  have  ever 
been  much  attached, 

To  those  who  have  listened  attentively  and  patiently  to 
my  imperfect  instruction,  and  faithfully  performed  the  duties 
assigned  them,  and  to  those  who  have  urged  a  publication 
from  me  some  years  ago.  I  affectionately  dedicate  the  wan 
derings  of  myself  and  remember  them  all  with  a  loving  heart. 

AMANDA  E.  MILLER  BATES. 


8 

She  had  sailed  on  a  steamer  from  New  York  harbor  by  way 
of  Cape  Horn.  My  other  aunt  went  to  California  in  1849, 
over  the  plains  in  wagon.  I  was  soon  in  the  Humbolt  region. 
I  saw  where  the  river  rose  from  springs,  rode  by  the  river  for 
miles,  then  saw  where  it  sinks  into  the  earth.  This  place  is 
called  the  "Sink  of  the  Humbolt."  Near  it  are  the  Humbolt 
Mountains.  At  this  sink  many  weary  emigrants  have  labored 
hard  and  long  to  get  through.  It  is  a  mire.  I  wondered 
how  my  aunt  Nancy  Jackson  had  traversed  the  plain  with  two 
small  children,  to  her  home  in  the  far  West.  She  made  this 
journey  before  my  birth.  She  reached  California  in  Novem 
ber,  1849.  My  uncle  Ben  Jackson,  a  cousin  of  Stonewall 
is  captain  of  the  California  Pioneers  or  49ers  as  they  are  called. 
They  lived  in  Peoria  county,  Illinois. 

I  saw  the  "Maiden's  Grave,"  high  on  the  mountain  top, 
it  seemed  inaccessible  to  man  or  beast.  The  grave  is  marked 
with  a  wooden  cross  and  is  a  landmark.  The  old  emigrant 
road  is  in  sight  of  the  railroad  for  many  miles.  There  are 
many  things  to  interest  the  traveler  enroute  to  California.  I 
passed  Julesburg,  where  so  many  emigrants  had  been  mur 
dered  by  Indians,  I  mailed  my  second  postal  card  to  my 
mother  at  this  place.  One  town  I  passed  was  a  Prairie  dog 
town.  I  saw  hundreds  of  their  dwellings.  Their  compan 
ions  were  owls  and  rattlesnakes.  At  the  least  noise  these  little 
dogs  scamper  about  and  run  into  thefr  holes,  head  first  while 
their  tails  stick  out  in  open  air.  When  one  shoots  at  them, 
it  is  very  hard,  to  hit  them,  they  are  so  quick.  Next  I  saw 
many  Mormon  settlements.  I  decided  to  visit  the  great  city 
of  "Salt  Lake"  on  my  way  home.  I  saw  where  the  "Moun 
tain  Meadow  Massacre"  occurred,  Indians  were  led  on  to  do 
the  bloody  work  by  designing  white  men,  Mormons  by  their 
religious  creed.  I  was  now  in  Utah,  and  was  riding  beside 


the  great  lake.  It  is  beautiful  in  appearance.  I  gazed  long 
at  the  Pyramid  lake,  which  has  a  number  of  huge  rocks  like 
Pyramids  jutting  above  the  surface. 

I  had  passed  the  mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross.  I  had 
seen  Pikes  Peak  in  the  distance.  I  was  now  leaving  the 
snow  covered  mountains,  for  valleys  where  the  trees  were 
putting  forth  green  leaves,  where  the  grass  was  green  and 
tender,  with  here  and  there  a  yellow  buttercup.  The  cattle 
were  feeding  on  the  hillside.  The  vegetation  had  changed 
from  the  hickory,  elm,  oak  and  maple.  Here  was  walnut, 
magnolia,  pepper,  mansanita  and  the  variety  of  redwoods. 
The  fruit  trees  were  white  with  bloom.  The  sudden  change 
from  winter  to  spring  was  grand  and  fascinating.  Next  was 
a  large  field  of  barley  where  men  were  harvesting. 

My  fondest  hope  was  realized.  I  had  reached  California. 
At  Truckee  I  beheld  a  sluice  box  for  washing  gold.  I  saw 
the  machinery  for  hydraulic  mining.  It  was  from  Truckee 
where  Senator's  Fair  Flood  and  Field  took  their  famous  boat- 
ride  down  a  Nevada  water  flume.  They  soon  decided  they 
would  never  again  make  themselves  equal  to  pine  slabs,  and 
thus  float  off.  I  had  reached  the  capital,  Sacramento,  but  had 
to  wait  until  2  p.  m.,  in  order  to  reach  Napa  city.  I  took  a 
cab  to  a  hotel,  took  my  trunk,  got  dinner,  took  a  bath,  changed 
my  traveling  apparel,  paid  the  sum  of  twenty-five  cents  for 
all  the  accommodation. 

The  tickets  cost  the  same  to  Sacramento  as  to  San  Fran 
cisco.  I  decided  to  get  all  I  could  for  the  money.  I  bought 
a  ticket  for  San  Francisco,  so  now  I  sold  my  remaining  ticket 
for  $4.60,  and  bought  a  ticket  to  Napa  for  $1.50.  I  sent  a 
telegram  to  my  cousin,  I.  E.  Howell,  that  I  would  arrive  at 
Napa  at  6  p.  m.  I  enjoyed  my  dinner  of  fresh  vegetables, 
cherry  pie,  fresh  peaches.  I  next  wrote  a  letter  to  my  mother 


10 

in  Illinois,  that  I  had  arrived  safely  at  Sacramento  and  that  I 
would  reach  Napa  city,  and  her  sister  at  6  p.  m.  I  had  been 
on  the  road  five  days  and  nights  from  Galesburg.  I  had  to 
change  cars  at  Napa  junction. 

When  I  alighted  from  the  train  I  was  so  delighted  with 
the  sunshine  that  I  stood  on  the  platform  like  every  one  else 
did,  examining  the  baggage  that  was  piled  off.  There  were 
only  a  few  trunks  and  few  passengers  that  got  off  at  this 
crossing.  I  was  looking  at  my  trunk,  when  a  tall,  handsome, 
young  man  stepped  up  to  the  trunk,  read  the  name  on  the 
card  on  the  top,  then  said  to  several  ladies  of  us,  "who  claims 
this  trunk?"  I  then  stepped  to  the  trunk,  when  he  inquired, 
"Are  you  Miss  Miller?"  "I  answer  to  that  name."  He 
then  said  that  he  was  my  cousin,  I.  E.  Howell,  who  had  come 
to  meet  me. 

He  then  informed  me  that  he  was  a  pallbearer  at  a  fu 
neral,  when  the  telegram  reached  him.  This  cousin  who  met 
me  came  to  California,  when  near  a  year  old,  accompanied  by 
his  parents,  who  sailed  from  New  York,  in  1851,  around 
Cape  Horn. 

After  a  few  days  I  became  rested  and  I  was  feeling 
better  than  I  had  for  some  time.  I  had  been  troubled  with 
a  cough,  all  the  winter  and  spring.  I  met  many  people  who 
were  interested  in  me.  Some  knew  and  liked  my  aunt  and 
uncle  so  well,  that  they  gave  me  a  warm  welcome.  I  was  a 
Methodist  too,  and  the  church  at  Napa  was  very  large,  then 
the  college  was  of  that  denomination.  Being  a  teacher,  I 
became  acquainted  with  teachers,  and  students  of  the  college. 
There  was  one  a  Professor  Buck  that  all  the  girls  gazed  fondly 
on.  He  was  smart,  good  looking  and  rich  and  as  a  teacher 
on  mathematics  he  had  few  equals.  The  girls  were  not 
timid  in  telling  me  about  the  charms  of  this  Professor.  I  was 


11 

not  aware  that  I  had  made  an  impress,  until  I  had  gone 
with  Aunt  Jackson  to  spend  a  few  weeks,  at  Atlas  Peak,  a 
mountain  resort,  about  fifteen  miles  distant.  The  home  was 
kept  by  a  widower  named  Evans. 

I  had  enjoyed  the  roses  and  geraniums  at  Napa  to  my 
heart's  content.  I  had  met  cousin  Mary  Pierson  and  Carrie 
Jackson,  then  in  her  teens. 

My  cousin,  Mary  Pierson's  husband  was  a  glovemaker 
by  trade.  He  made  beautiful  gloves  for  both  ladies  and  gen 
tlemen.  Dressed  the  buckskin  from  the  rough  for  his  work. 
He  was  a  money  maker,  his  wife  went  with  us  to  spend  a  few 
weeks  at  the  peak. 

The  road  \vas  mountainous,  but  the  scenery  delightful, 
The  climate  considerable  cooler  than  at  Napa.  I  was  past 
twenty  years  old,  just  old  enough  for  fun.  Of  all  the  nice 
berries,  fruit,  flowers,  quail,  I  got  my  share.  We  furnished 
our  own  rooms  but  took  meals  with  Mr.  Evans. 

The  daily  stage  from  Napa  brought  the  mail.  Much  to 
my  surprise  on  Tuesday,  of  the  second  week  here,  the  Pro 
fessor,  to  spend  a  part  of  his  vacation.  My  fun  all  spoilt. 
But  I  was  still  invited  to  help  cut  the  roses  each  day,  when  to 
my  chagrin  I  was  asked  how  I  would  like  to  live  at  the  peak 
for  good.  I  could  not  think  of  such  a  thing,  my  home  was 
in  Illinois.  I  told  him  I  was  a  heartless  creature,  but  that 
my  heart  was  walking  the  streets  of  Philadelphia,  sad  and 
forlorn,  while  I  was  at  Atlas  Peak  with  him  and  the  Pro 
fessor. 

Now  aunt  was  real  glad  the  Professor  had  come  out,  but 
in  one  week  more  aunt,  cousins,  Professor  and  I  came  to  Napa 
on  the  stage.  Two  years  afterward  the  Professor  married 
my  friend,  Mattie  Amos. 

The  old  man  at  the  peak  is  dead  long  since.  My  aunt 
and  cousin,  Mrs.  Pierson,  are  gone  from  earth,  cousin  Carrie 


12 

Jackson  is  now  married  to  Captain  Redman  of  United  States 
Navy,  situated  at  Mare  Island  Navy  Yard.  But  should  I 
visit  California  again,  I  should  want  to  take  a  ride  to  Atlas 
Mountain,  and  see  the  sun  rise  on  the  mountain  once  again. 
I  visited  Gesford's  peach  orchard,  ten  acres  in  peaches,  all 
sizes,  then  there  were  the  apricots,  nectarines,  figs,  plums  of 
all  varieties  and  grapes.  There  were  the  Black  Prince,  the 
Flaming  Tokay,  White  Muscatel,  from  which  nearly  all  the 
good  raisins  are  made.  Then  the  almonds.  I  was  delighted 
with  the  fruit,  of  pears  and  quinces  there  seemed  no -end.  I 
was  interested  in  their  Chinese  cook.  They  learn  cooking 
easily,  when  once  told  or  shown  how  to  do  a  thing  they  never 
forget  it.  This  cook  was  being  taught  how  to  make  cake, 
the  lady  broke  an  egg  into  a  dish,  the  next  one  happening  to 
be  a  bad  one  she  threw  it  into  the  slop-pail ;  the  next  was  bad, 
she  put  it  into  the  slop-pail  also.  The  next  was  saved.  The 
Chinee  caught  the  idea.  When  he  made  cake,  one  egg  went 
into  a  dish  two  into  the  slop-pail  each  time. 

I  was  visiting  at  the  Amesbury  place,  one  of  the  most 
elegant  country  homes  in  Napa  county.  It  is  in  a  beautiful 
valley  called  Brown's  Valley.  The  Amesbury's  had  crossed 
the  Isthmus  of  Panama  on  mule,  back  in  1849,  tnen  took  ship 
to  San  Francisco.  They  had  no  children  of  their  own;  but 
had  an  adopted  daughter,  who  was  just  sixteen  years  old,  and 
desired  my  company  very  much.  I  had  been  teaching  the 
Brown's  Valley  school  and  she  was  my  oldest  pupil.  Then 
when  vacation  came  I  was  invited  to  her  home,  for  a  few 
weeks.  I  was  delighted  with  the  fruit  and  flowers  of  that 
home.  They  had  a  Chinese  cook.  They  are  like  the  Ameri 
cans  in  one  way.  Some  are  very  particular  about  their  food, 
while  others  prefer  a  dish  of  rice  and  rats  to  anything  else. 
Some  eat  with  knife  and  fork,  while  those  who  prefer  a  rice  diet 


13 

eat  entirely  with  the  chopstick.  I  have  no  great  love  for  the 
Chinee,  except  to  give  him  the  light  of  God.  I  have  a  relic 
from  China,  which  I  prize.  It  is  a  back-scratcher,  an  ivfory 
hand  with  fingers,  fastened  to  a  long  handle,  of  redwood,  quite 
a  useful  article.  I  also  have  learned  to  make  a  Chinese  em 
broidery  on  silk,  and  with  silk,  which  is  very  beautiful. 
While  at  Uncle  Howell's  in  Napa,  a  Chinaman  brought  me 
some  Chinese  candy.  It  was  green  olives  dried  in  salt.  They 
were  horrid,  I  burned  them. 

The  beautiful  magnolia  tree  with  its  highly  perfumed 
flower,  such  a  beautiful  snowy  white,  delighted  me  and  the 
roses,  there  was  no  end  to  them.  I  had  never  seen  any  Cali 
fornia  cherries.  My  cousin  sent  a  gallon  of  very  fine  ones, 
over  to  the  house,  with  the  word  that  they  were  for  me  to  eat 
what  I  wanted.  I  did  not  know  how  many  there  were  of 
them,  until  I  had  eaten  the  last  cherry,  my  cousin  said  at  din 
ner,  "where  are  your  cherries?"  I  said,  "I  have  eaten  them 
all  up."  He  laughed  heartily.  I  really  did  eat  every  one  of 
a  gallon  of  cherries.  They  were  delicious.  I  thought  I  had 
better  call  a  physician,  but  aunt  calmed  my  fears  by  saying 
they  would  never  hurt  me.  She  said,  that  she  enjoyed  seeing 
me  eat  those  cherries.  They  were  as  large  as  small  plums  and 
dead  ripe. 

The  wild  ivy  vines  crept  over  many  an  old  tree  and  many 
of  the  beautiful  yards  were  fenced  with  rose  trees  of  white, 
yellow,  and  red.  I  delighted  to  throw  a  club  into  an  almond 
tree  and  hear  the  nuts  fall  thick  and  fast,  then  gather  them 
in  my  apron,  and  eat  as  long  as  I  could.  When  I  left  Illinois, 
I  weighed  one  hundred  and  fifteen  pounds,  May  14,  1876,  on 
September  14,  I  weighed  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds.  The 
change  was  such  a  good  one,  I  enjoyed  it  so  thoroughly.  No 
snow  at  Napa.  No  thunder  or  lightning,  but  an  earthquake 
sometimes. 


14 

Such  vegetables,  I  saw  a  beet  that  weighed  eighty 
pounds;  such  melons,  pumpkins,  pears  as  large  as  a  common 
sugar  bowl,  such  grapes.  My  cousin  had  sent  me  some 
grapes  by  express  to  Duncan,  Stark  county,  Illinois,  the  larg 
est  bunch  sent  weighed  eleven  pounds.  The  fruit  there  never 
seems  to  hurt  one,  no  difference  how  much  you  eat.  While 
teaching  school  at  Brown's  Valley  I  feasted.  The  little  girls 
brought  baskets  of  fruit  each  day  for  the  teacher.  I  had  not 
thought  to  teach  while  there,  but  a  teacher  whom  the  County 
Superintendent  had  allowed  to  begin  a  school,  failed  in  the 
examination  for  certificate.  I  attended  the  examination  out 
of  curiosity  and  to  my  surprise  got  a  certificate.  The  County 
Superintendent  was  an  old  friend  to  uncle  and  was  a  young 
man  whom  I  had  made  the  acquaintance  of,  Mr.  Fellows  by 
name,  who  asked  me  to  take  the  vacated  place.  I  had  no 
serious  objection  to  $95  per  month  payable  in  gold,  when 
money  was  worth  $1.13  for  every  gold  dollar.  This  was  big 
pay  for  me,  who  had  taught  the  year  before  fxDr  $45 ;  so  I  took 
the  place  and  had  I  remained  there,  I  might  have  been  rich, 
for  I  was  very  successful.  The  school  was  one  mile  from  the 
city.  Uncle  had  a  Mustang  pony,  I  bought  a  new  saddle  and 
went  on  pony  back,  to  and  from  the  school.  This  teaching 
at  Brown's  Valley,  California  is  of  the  delightful  memories 
of  my  life. 

I  only  taught  twenty  clays  for  a  month  and  on  Friday 
I  dismissed  for  the  day  at  2  p.  m.  I  had  thirty  pupils.  One 
little  Indian  boy,  who  rode  six  miles  on  a  horse  without  a 
bridle,  arid  a  negro  boy  who  would  steal  all  the  pencils  and 
pens  in  the  schooolroom,  if  you  were  not  careful.  The  school- 
house  was  a  neat  white  frame,  surrounded  by  oak  and  red 
wood  trees.  A  few  yards  off  ran  a  beautiful  creek,  where 
we  could  pick  up  plenty,  of  Indian  arrow  heads,  beads,  etc., 


15 

tinder  the  limbs  of  the  older  trees,  hung  the  most  beautiful 
moss  and  bunches  of  mistletoe.  To  the  south  of  the  school- 
house  was  a  three-hundred  acre  wheat  field.  The  wheat  was 
cut  by  a  header,  threshed  out  and  put  in  bags,  and  there  were 
many  piles  of  these  wheat  bags,  as  high  as  a  man,  which  lay  on 
the  ground  for  weeks,  no  rain  or  dew  to  dampen  them.  There 
was  great  demand  for  white  men  for  the  wheat  fields,  as  a 
Chinaman  is  no  good  there.  He  can  washee,  he  can  cookee, 
he  can  gardenee,  but  has  no  more  idea  about  using  a  horse 
to  labor  or  drive  than  we  would  have  of  an  elephant.  He 
thinks  the  faster  he  drives  and  the  harder  he  whips  the  better 
driver  he  is.  He  never  stops  for  bridges,  children  or  any 
thing,  when  he  is  out  for  a  drive.  They  put  one  in  mind  of  a 
man  who  has  been  to  grog-shop. 

CHINAMAN'S   RANCH. 

I  made  a  trip,  driving  about  eight  miles  northwest  from 
Pasadena,  across  the  Arroyo  Seco,  over  the  foothills  beyond 
La  Canada,  then  down  a  hill  into  a  beautiful  valley.  I  found 
Ham  Lou  Sam,  Americanized  for  convenience  into  plain  Sam 
at  home. 

Sam  was  born  in  Canton,  China,  came  to  this  country  when 
a  boy  sixteen  years  of  age.  Sam's  ranch  covers  one  hundred 
and  forty  acres,  all  under  cultivation,  with  a  dark,  rich  soil. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  small  range  of  hills,  west  by 
mountains  with  a  fine  view  for  a  long  distance  either  north  or 
south.  It  is  all  operated  by  himself.  He  decides  what  seed 
to  plant  and  what  work  is  to  be  done,  directs  the  peddling 
wagons,  besides  driving  one  himself,  and  is  his  own  book 
keeper  and  cashier.  The  wagons  leave  every  morning  in  the 
year  at  6  a.  m.,  except  on  Sunday  and  the  Chinese  New  Year. 
I  asked  Sam  what  day  was  Sunday  in  China :  "Have  no  Sun- 


16 

day  there;  but  here  same  Sunday  as  in  United  States."  His 
fields  are  laid  out  like  checker  boards,  and  are  kept  clean  of 
weeds.  The  crops  are  alternated,  a  lot  which  raised  cauli 
flower  this  year  must  have  something  entirely  different  next. 
Everything  changes  every  year.  He  says  he  has  two  hundred 
forty  bushels  of  potatoes  on  one  acre.  He  has  three  acres 
in  strawberries.  He  has  a  well  ninety  feet  deep,  water  is 
raised  by  gasoline  engine.  He  employes  eighteen  men,  one 
as  cook,  and  one  as  a  general  superintendent.  He  has  five 
peddling  wagons,  with  two  horses  each,  extra  horses  for  farm 
work,  an  endless  supply  of  gardening  tools.  He  raises  all 
his  feed  for  stock,  a  big  flock  of  pigeons  and  plenty  of  ducks 
and  chickens  for  eggs  and  eating.  They  all  rise  at  5  a.  m. 
It  was  a  novelty  to  see  them  eat  with  chopsticks.  Coffee  for 
breakfast.  I  said,  "Sam  have  all  the  vegetables  he  want  for 
eating?"  "Chinaman  don't  eat  much  vegetable;  most  all  meat 
and  rice,  chicken,  duck,  and  pigeon.  Every  Sunday  we  have 
eight  chickens,  or  each  man  a  pigeon."  "Sam  how  can  you 
cut  meat  with  chopsticks?"  "No  it  all  cut  up  when  it  comes 
on  the  table."  "But  Sam  how  about  rats?"  "You  know 
better  than  that,  poor  Chinaman  get  lots  bad  talk  about  rats; 
he  eat  pies  and  sweet  things."  He  had  plenty  of  dishes,  pans, 
pots,  kettles.  His  place  is  much  better  kept  than  some  Ameri 
can  ranches  I  have  seen. 

I  can  not  begin  to  mention  the  beauties  nor  the  wonders 
of  California,  when  I  saw  acres  in  calla  lilies  and  thirteen 
acres  in  carnations  at  Redondo  Beach.  California  is  simply 
a  flower  garden.  There  is  something  in  the  soil,  in  the  water 
or  the  sun  that  makes  such  wonderful  growth,  everything 
seems  to  fully  develop  and  everything  tries  for  the  mastery. 

Pasadena,  February  n,  1898. 

The  Rev.  J.  H.  Kelly  a  negro  preacher,  swallowed  a  live 
mouse  last  night  and  lives  to  tell  the  story. 


17 

Mr.  Kelly,  who  is  pastor  of  the  Friendship  Baptist 
Church,  had  been  reading  a  newspaper  and  fell  asleep  with  his 
mouth  wide  open.  As  he  was  lying  on  his  back,  a  mouse,  at 
tracted  by  loud  snores,  crawled  into  the  wide  open  mouth 
and  squealing  and  clawing,  continued  down  the  food  canal 
into  the  stomach.  The  pastor,  jumping  to  his  feet  and  gasp 
ing  for  breath,  got  on  his  wheel  and  rode  to  the  nearest  doctor. 
Epicac  brought  the  mouse  up,  after  two  hours. 

The  resources  of  southern  California  are  great.  The 
only  tin  mine  in  United  States  worked  to  any  extent  is  at 
Corona,  Riverside  county,  California.  Out  door  life  is  prac 
ticable  at  every  season  of  the  year  in  southern  California.  It 
is  said  by  the  oldest  inhabitants  that  in  the  old  Spanish  days 
throat  and  lung  trouble  and  rheumatism  were  practically  un 
known.  The  desert,  with  its  stretches  of  balsamic  plants,  its 
dry  and  pure  air,  wooes  the  consumptive  to  its  arms  and 
promises  him  healing.  Every  mountain  side  has  its  white 
tents  of  health  seekers,  or  tourists. 

LOS    ANGELES. 

To  the  westward  of  Los  Angeles  stretches  the  Chuenga 
Valley,  bordered  on  the  north  by  the  Santa  Monica  Moun 
tains,  and  losing  itself,  thirty  miles  from  the  city  of  Los  An 
geles,  on  the  beach  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  To  the  northward 
opens  another  great  valley,  which,  but  a  few  miles  from  the 
city,  bends  to  the  westward  and  takes  the  name  of  San  Fer 
nando  Valley,  which  terminates  in  a  pass  opening  into  the 
Simi  Valley,  the  latter  in  turn  broadening  until  it  opens  into 
the  wide  plains  of  Ventura  and  Santa  Barbara  counties. 
Eastward  from  the  city  opens  the  great  central  valley  of 
southern  California,  crossing  the  San  Gabriel  and  Santa  Ana 
rivers  and,  sixty  miles  away,  bending  to  the  southeast  to  in- 


18 

elude  the  wide  reaches  of  the  San  Jacinto  plains.  To  the 
southeast  from  Los  Angeles  reaches  the  great  coast  plain 
extending  to  the  Mexican  line,  opening  in  many  directions 
into  lesser  valleys  and  including  in  its  expansive  territory,  such 
cities  as  Santa  Ana  and  San  Diego.  Besides  these  valleys  are 
many  mountain  passes  leading  to  mining  districts  on  the  des 
erts  and  opening  the  way  for  unlimited  railway  lines  to  the 
east  and  north.  Nor  has  man  been  slow  to  recognize  the  de 
sign  of  nature,  here  centered  the  labors  of  the  pious  mission 
ary  father,  who  sought  the  salvation  of  *he  primitive  heathen, 
who  roamed  over  the  valleys  and  mountains  of  southern  Cali 
fornia. 

At  Sherman,  a  small  but  pretty  little  town  near  Los  Ange 
les  is  located  the  powerhouse  of  the  Santa  Monica  and  Los  An 
geles  Electric  railroad.  South  of  Sherman  is  the  Palms, 
where  in  particular  the  lemon  is  grown.  Between  Sherman 
and  Santa  Monica  is  the  National  Soldiers'  Home,  where  two 
thousand  veterans  of  the  Civil  War  are  guests  of  the  govern 
ment;  in  comfortable  quarters.  Santa  Monica  is  one  of  the 
leading  seaside  resorts  of  southern  California,  bathing  on  the 
fine  beach  is  enjoyed  throughout  the  year.  Near  by  is  the 
long  wharf  of  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad,  known  as  Port 
Los  Angeles.  One  scarcely  passes  beyond  the  city  limits  to 
the  northward  before  entering  a  rich  fruit  producing  section. 
Tropico,  Verdugo,  Glendale,  and  West  Glendale  form  a  clus 
ter  of  prosperous  little  towns  at  the  entrance  of  the  San  Fer 
nando  Valley,  while  a  pass  through  the  hills  to  the  north 
leads  to  the  fruit  colonies  of  La  Canada  and  La  Crescenta. 
Thirty  thousand  acres  in  the  San  Fernando  Valley  are  held 
by  one  company  as  an  immense  grain  field,  while  about  the 
rim  of  the  valley  are  many  small  fruit  ranches.  At  Bur- 
bank  is  a  large  acreage  of  apricots,  while  at  San  Fernando 


19 

are  hundreds  of  acres  of  orange  orchards.  About  half  of  all 
the  orange  orchards  in  the  world,  lie  in  the  great  central  val 
ley,  between  Los  Angeles  on  the  west  and  Redlands  and  Riv 
erside  on  the  east,  a  stretch  of  about  seventy  miles.  Pomona, 
Claremont  and  San  Dimas,  are  important  places;  at  Clare- 
mont  is  Pomona  college. 

West  of  Claremont  is  Lordsburg,  a  dunkard  settlement, 
they  have  a  fine  college.  Olive  raising  is  one  of  the  chief 
industries.  Alhambra  is  another  beautiful  suburb  of  Los 
Angeles.  Southeast  of  Los  Angeles  is  the  great  walnut 
growing  section. 

Redondo  is  a  pleasant  and  well  patronized  seaside  re 
sort.  Long  Beach  is  where  many  religious  gatherings  are 
held,  while  San  Pedro  is  important,  as  a  site  for  a  harbor  to 
be  built  by  the  government. 

The  city  of  San  Diego  lies  on  the  beautiful  bay,  with  a 
fine  harbor,  from  which  there  is  about  to  be  started  a  trans 
pacific  steamship  line,  to  operate  in  connection  with  the  Santa 
Fe  railroad,  and  make  of  this  port  a  center  for  Asiatic,  Phil 
ippine  and  Hawaiian  trade.  This  place  also  will  be  greatly 
benefited  by  the  Nicaraugua  Canal.  The  climate  of  San 
Diego  is  not  surpassed  by  anything  in  the  world;  the  ther 
mometer  is  nearly  the  same  the  year  around,  never  below 
forty  degrees,  never  above  eighty  degrees.  One  of  the  most 
magnificent  seaside  hotels  in  the  world  is  Hotel  del  Coronado ; 
its  broad  verandas  are  thronged  with  people  all  the  year, 
from  all  quarters  of  the  globe.  El  Cajon  is  the  great  place 
for  raisins  and  took  first  prize  for  raisins  at  World's  Fair. 
One  of  the  finest  water  systems  of  the  state  'is  at  Hemet. 
They  have  a  solid  dam  of  fine  masonry  with  which  the  water^ 
is  supplied. 

In  the  extreme  southwest  corner  of  San  Barnadino  coun 
ty  is  the  large  Chino  ranch  and  the  town  of  Chino,  where  a 


20 

large  sugar  beet  factory  is  established.  The  output  of  this 
factory  for  the  year  1897  was  12,020  tons  of  sugar.  I  can't 
tell  you  anything  about  California  in  this  little  work,  but  I 
should  like  to  write  a  history  of  that  wonderful  state.  Every 
thing  is  found  there  and  nearly  everything  grows  there,  and 
no  wonder  people  flock  there.  The  fields  and  flowers,  the 
woods  and  mines  are  attractive,  to  say  nothing  of  the  moun 
tains,  hills,  and  valleys,  the  harbors  and  the  pebbly  beach. 
The  trees  and  vegetables,  fruits  and  flowers  all  grow  to  their 
greatest  perfection.  Beautiful  horses  and  cattle. 

Hunting  is  a  pastime.  In  some  parts  deer  are  plenti 
ful,  also  quail  and  rabbits.  Thousands  of  cattle  find  pasture 
on  the  mountains.  Celery  is  raised  by  the  car  load  on  the 
peat  lands. 

The  Art  Loan  Association  at  Pasadena  is  well  worth  a 
visit.  They  have  a  display  of  mission  relics,  a  complete  col 
lection  of  Indian  curiosities.  The  names  of  donors  or  loan- 
ers  on  a  card  attached  to  the  article.  The  exhibit  room  is 
open  daily  except  Sunday  from  9  a.  m.,  to  5  p.  m.  No  fee  is 
charged.  The  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of  Commerce  has 
more  members  than  any  other  in  United  States.  Over  one 
thousand. 

Immense  quantities  fof  barley  are  raised  in  the  peat 
lands.  The  wine  making  industry  is  a  great  one.  The  hand 
ling  of  bees  is  another.  The  city  of  Yuma  on  the  line  between 
California  and  Arizona  is  the  hottest  place  in  United  States. 

Riverside  is  a  beautiful  place.  Now  for  the  north  again. 
I  must  mention  the  beautiful  Santa  Clara  Valley.  If  I  in 
tended  to  buy  a  farm  in  California  I  should  buy  a  wheat  farm 
in  Santa  Clara  Valley.  Then  by  rail  to  Stockton,  then  by 
stage  to  the  big  trees.  I  saw  the  tree  known  as  the  Grizzly 
Giant."  It  was  lying  on  the  ground.  The  father  of  the 


2i 

forest  is  three  hundred  and  forty-five  teet  high,  the  mother 
-of  the  forest,  the  twins,  the  three  sisters  are  noted  trees.  I 
ate  dinner  in  a  room  which  was  a  tree  with  places  cut  for 
windows  and  doors.  I  saw  a  dancing  platform,  which  was  a 
tree  stump,  on  which  thirty  couple  could  dance  at  one  set. 
When  I  reached  Oakland  I  was  delighted  by  the  sight  of 
ferry  steamers  crossing  to  San  Francisco.  Oakland  is  where 
many  business  men  of  San  Francisco  reside.  The  crossing 
on  the  steamer  is  grand.  The  fare  is  fifteen  cents.  Oak 
land  is  a  very  beautiful  place.  So  many  beautiful  homes 
and  flowers  there.  A  trip  to  the  Cliff  house  which  juts  out 
over  the  ocean.  Here  one  can  see  the  sea  lions  at  play  in 
the  sunshine.  Below  here  on  the  beach,  when  the  tide  is 
low,  one  can  gather  the  beautiful  shells  and  corals.  One  can 
spend  a  few  days  in  Woodard's  gardens,  there  you  will  see 
all  the  plants,  trees,  shrubbery,  animals,  fish  and  flowers,  to 
be  had  from  the  ends  of  the  earth.  There  you  will  meet 
the  California  lion  and  the  boa-constrictor,  in  his  glass  box  on 
his  blanket,  there  you  will  meet  face  to  face  the  polar  bear  of 
the  north,  the  arctic  fox  and  the  woolly  esquimaux  dog. 
The  greatest  mystery  to  me  is  that  all  the  animals  of 
the  frozen  and  snowy  north  are  white.  The  most  beautiful 
birds  I  found  here.  A  black  swan,  a  flamingo.  The  Au 
stralian  lyre  bird.  The  most  beautiful  fish  aquariums.  I 
saw  many  curious  things  here  in  both  the  animal  and  vege 
table  kingdoms.  One  that  I  shall  not  forget,  as  it  was  out 
of  the  ordinary  line  of  nature.  It  was  a  green  rose,  another 
the  famous  holy  ghost  flower  of  pure  white.  Then  the  most 
beautiful  night-blooming-cereus ;  a  pink  pond  lily;  the  beauti 
ful  magnolias;  cape  jessamine;  the  Florida  rose  and  thousands 
of  the  most  beautiful  flowers.  Orange  trees  containing  both 
flowers  and  fruit.  I  selected  of  all  the  animals  the  white 


22 

ermine  as  the  favorite.  Then  a  ride  through  Chinatown. 
One  can  see  all  one  wishes  too,  of  filth,  misery  and  vice. 
These  Chinese  quarters  are  vile  gambling  dens,  filled  with 
smokers  of  opium,  in  long  pipes  and  tea  houses  and  the  Joss 
house  where  he  goes  to  the  gods  for  forgiveness. 

In  thinking  of  our  Chinese  brother.  They  do  every 
thing  just  the  opposite  from  us.  Shake  their  own  hand  in 
stead  of  your,  when  you  call  on  them. 

Their  books  are  backside  first,  read  from  the  back  to 
front,  the  reading  beginning  at  the  bottom  of  the  page  and 
read  toward  the  top.  I  suppose  it  is  because  they  are  opposite 
us,  all  the  time,  while  we  stand  on  our  feet  they  stand  on 
their  heads.  In  the  Chinese  stores,  one  sees  all  manner  of 
manufactured  articles  for  sale.  My  attention  was  attracted 
by  a  toy  cow.  There  are  no  cows  in  China  and  no  horses. 
This  toy  cow  all  looked  like  a  cow,  but  the  head  looked  like 
head  of  a  rhinoceros,  only  smaller,  it  made  the  creature  look 
like  anything  else  but  a  cow.  I  don't  suppose  the  toymaker 
had  ever  seen  a  live  cow,  but  had  tried  to  imitate  a  picture  of 
one.  Goats  milk  is  the  only  milk  and  gotian  butter  the  only 
kind  obtained  in  China.  The  rice  and  bird  nest  soups  are 
not  well  seasoned  with  cream  and  butter. 

All  their  riding  is  done  in  boats,  or  the  Sedan  chair  or 
Jinriksha.  These  carriages  are  carried  by  (coolies)  hired 
persons,  sometimes  two  and  sometimes  four  to  a  carriage. 
The  missionaries  travel  for  the  greater  part  in  this  way, 
through  the  interior  portion  of  China  and  Japan. 

I  must  not"  fail  to  mention  a  trip  on  horseback  to  Napa 
Soda  Springs,  a  distance  of  eight  miles  from  Napa.  This  trip 
had  been  planned  for  some  weeks.  I  was  accompanied  by 
two  young  ladies,  Miss  Ella  Amesbury,  of  Brown's  Valley 
and  Miss  Katie  F.  Hamill,  of  San  Francisco.  Miss  Ames- 


28 

bury  is  now  a  Mrs.  Wright  of  San  Diego,  and  Miss  Hamill, 
I  have  lost  in  the  great  city  of  San  Francisco.  We  started  at 
7  a.  m.,  and  reached  the  springs  early  in  the  day.  I  rode  my 
uncle's  horse  that  I  was  accustomed  to  ride  to  school,  while 
I  was  teaching  at  Brown's  Valley.  The  other  horses  were 
hired  from  the  livery-man  at  Napa.  The  first  hour  at  the 
springs  was  spent  in  viewing  the  buildings,  seeing  the  orange 
trees  and  gathering  a  few  blossoms,  which  they  informed  us 
we  could  pick.  We  next  called  at  the  hotel,  engaged  dinner, 
had  our  horses  cared  for,  then  we  went  into  the  bottle  house, 
where  they  were  washing  and  preparing  bottles.  Soon  after 
dinner  we  climbed  Springs  Mountain  and  drank  the  pure  soda 
water  as  it  comes  trickling  from  the  ground.  Here  are  the 
large  marble  vats  into  which  it  runs,  it  is  then  filled  direct  in 
bottles  by  the  thousands.  They  are  corked  as  fast  as  bottled 
and  ready  for  use  or  sale.  Near  one  and  eighty  men  are 
here  employed. 

The  Soda  Springs  are  five  large  springs  and  a  number  of 
smaller  ones.  The  soda  water  is  much  superior  to  any  I 
had  ever  drank  in  the  states.  The  rocks  and  scenery  at  the 
springs  is  perfectly  beautiful.  The  ride  home  to  Napa  by 
way  of  Egg  Rock  Valley.  The  rocks  the  shape  of  an  egg, 
in  size  all  the  way  from  a  small  bird's  egg  to  that  of  a  common 
tub,  then  we  passed  the  Flat  Rock  Valley  and  Nigger  Head 
Valley.  I  climbed  from  my  horse  and  got  specimens  of  these 
rocks.  There  is  a  fascination  about  rock  hunting  in  Cali 
fornia.  You  can  never  tell  what  beautiful  specimens  of 
petrified  wood  or  arrows  you  may  chance  to  pick  up.  We 
crossed  the  Napa  river  and  visited  an  Indian  wigwam.  There 
was  a  squaw  in  the  tent  with  a  pappoose.  The  Indian  chief 
sat  out  on  the  river  bank  fishing.  He  was  distant  near  fifty 
yards.  The  squaw  had  a  knife  and  was  scraping  the  oil  from 


24 

an  opossum  skin  and  eating  to  her  hearts  content,  she  stopped 
eating  as  we  approached,  we  did  not  care  to  enter.  As  we 
neared  the  city  bridge  the  horse  of  Miss  Hamill  became  un 
manageable,  she  possessed  very  little  experience  as  a  horse 
man.  She  was  thrown  to  the  ground.  I  suddenly  dis 
mounted  and  caught  her  horse.  Her  horse  was  wild  with 
excitement.  After  a  few  trials  I  managed  to  get  her  on  my 
horse.  I  taking  hers.  By  this  time  her  face  was  bleeding. 
We  were  near  a  mile  from  the  city.  I  simply  rode  the  horse 
I  was  on  to  the  liveryman  while  Miss  Amesbury  wrent  with  her 
to  the  doctor.  Her  injuries  were  not  serious,  but  rather  of  a 
nervous  order,  but  my  trip  to  the  springs  will  not  pass  from 
memory  till  time  is  no  more  with  me. 

The  insane  Asylum  at  Napa  I  visited.  It  is  a  very  large 
building.  The  distance  around  the  outside  is  said  to  be  one 
mile.  The  grounds  and  yards  and  flowers  were  very  beau 
tiful.  My  uncle  Joseph  Howell  accompanied  me,  on  this 
visit.  He  was  acquainted  with  the  officials  there  and  they 
showed  us  around  through  nearly  every  part,  except  the  cells 
of  those  who  were  dangerous. 

In  the  large  hall  there  were  some  ten  who  were  almost 
well.  They  had  two  violins  playing  and  were  dancing.  It 
seems  that  there  are  very  many  insane  people  in  California. 
In  getting  there  and  the  life,  there,  seems  to  strain  the  nerves 
of  very  many  people,  while  some  doubtless  meet  disappoint 
ment,  or  financial  failure,  while  the  great  rush  for  gold  at 
times  misleads.  Then  the  hot  climate  to  the  eastener  is  a 
great  change. 


25 


HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

I  had  my  fortune  told  about  a  week  before  I  started 
east  by  a  gipsy.  I  had  been  thinking  very  much  about  taking 
a  ship  at  San  Francisco,  and  doubling  Cape  Horn  and  land 
ing  at  New  York.  This  trip  was  planned  and  I  to  set  sail 
by  Cunard  Line  of  steamer.  This  fortune  teller  told  me  I 
was  soon  to  take  a  great  trip ;  that  I  would  have  a  great  accident 
on  this  trip,  but  by  caution  and  sense  I  could  pass  through 
unharmed.  This  spoilt  my  ocean  voyage.  My  aunt  would 
listen  to  nothing  of  the  kind,  although  neither  believed  one 
thing  a  fortune  teller  could  say;  but  I  decided  to  try  the 
railroad  again  and  as  I  wished  to  stop  off  here  and  there  I 
decided  to  board  an  "emigrant  train,"  and  not  hurry  at  all, 
as  I  had  found  a  man  and  his  wife,  by  name  of  Latta,  that 
were  coming  that  route.  We  wanted  the  sights.  I  had 
passed  nearly  all  the  snowsheds  in  the  night  as  I  went  out 
and  I  had  great  desire  to  see  these  immense  snowhouses  over 
the  railroad.  I  had  seen  the  Devil's  Slide,  and  the  Devil's 
Gate,  the  Devil's  Canyon  and  I  was  expecting  to  see  the  old 
man  himself  but  I  never  got  a  glimpse  of  him. 

I  packed  a  huge  lunch  basket,  had  two  large  paper  sacks 
as  full  as  could  be  of  fine  fruit ;  apples,  peaches,  pears,  grapes, 
apricots,  nectarines.  I  also  had  a  small  valise;  a  large  calico 
sack  containing  a  pillow,  two  fine  California  wool  blankets; 
if  you  could  have  seen  me,  you  would  have  wondered  how 
I  expected  to  take  care  of  all  that  stuff.  Now  it  was  real 
easy,  I  tied  the  two  sacks  of  fruit  together,  the  sack  with 
the  blankets  I  put  around  my  neck,  when  I  changed  cars  at 
Napa  junction,  my  uncle  came  that  far.  At  Sacramento,  I 
stayed  over  night  and  left  my  fruit,  blankets,  lunch,  all  in 
the  baggage  room.  My  train  for  home  started  out  of  Sacra 
mento,  November  18,  at  6  a.  m.  I  was  on  the  lookout,  I 


26 

passed  through  eastern  California  the  first  day,  crossing  Dale 
Creek  bridge,  a  wooden  structure  which  did  not  seem  so  very 
safe  to  me.  It  was  657  feet  long  and  250  feet  from  the 
water.  I  was  delighted  with  a  rain  shower  and  a  beautiful 
rainbow.  Then  came  hailstones  about  as  large  as  quail  eggs. 
They  made  some  clatter  on  the  tops  of  the  cars,  but  fortu 
nately  for  us  none  came  through.  The  snowsheds  aggravated 
me,  the  fine  scenery  was  hidden  by  these  wooden  sheds  and 
in  the  Sierras,  where  the  scenery  is  most  perfect  there  is  the 
shed.  You  might  as  well  be  in  the  land  of  the  midnight  sun, 
yet  these  unsightly  sheds  are  the  traveler's  best  friend  in  the 
winter  when  pass  and  cutting  are  heaped  with  icy  drifts  by  a 
raging  Arctic  gale.  The  sixty  miles  of  sheds  are  not  an 
inch  too  long.  Where  the  track  is  open  snow  is  sometimes 
piled  up  in  a  solid  drift  as  high  as  the  cross  arms  of  the  tele 
graph  poles,  and  this  mountain  snow,  under  the  intense  cold 
of  the  high  altitudes  is  not  soft  and  clinging  like  the  normal 
variety,  but  is  granulated  by  the  wind  until  each  particle  is  a 
separate  icy  pellet,  and  the  whole  mass  resembles  a  sandbank 
sliding  from  shovel  and  plow  like  dry  sand,  and  rushing  down 
as  fast  as  it  is  thrown  up  and  out.  It  is  said  before  the  great 
snow  plows  can  work  it  is  often  necessary  for  gangs  of  shov- 
elers  to  handle  and  re-handle  the  snow  in  the  deeper  drifts 
as  many  as  five  times  before  it  can  be  thrown  clear  of  the 
cutting,  and  the  granulated  mass  has  to  be  thawed  sometimes 
by  a  steam  hose  before  the  men  can  make  it  stay  where  it  is 
thrown.  The  snowshed  is  an  American  invention,  and  is 
much  more  used  in  the  United  States  than  in  Canada.  The 
Canadian  Pacific  though  so  many  degrees  farther  north  has 
only  six  miles  of  shed  while  the  Union  Pacific  has  sixty  miles. 
It  does  not  seem  at  first  sight  that  the  snowshed  is  an 
expensive  affair,  but  it  has  been  known  to  cost  sixty-four 


27 

dollars  a  foot  and  be  cheap  at  that,  since  shovel  and  plow  in 
the  long  run  are  costly  luxuries  compared  to  it.  Of  course 
the  mere  planks  and  timbers  and  labor  could  not  bring  it  up 
to  this  figure.  Each  shed  is  an  engineering  triumph.  It 
defends  a  dangerous  point  of  attack.  First  the  slope  of  the 
hillside  must  be  considered,  there  must  be  an  open  space  be 
tween  the  shed  for  the  smoke  and  steam  from  the  engine  to 
pass  out,  but  a  whole  railroad  cannot  run  under  sheds.  Some 
times  the  snow  plows  are  masked  in  the  snow.  In  one  case 
at  Truckee,  California,  in  1876,  a  train  of  eight  engines  ran 
a  plow  into  slide  pack  smashing  and  disabling  plow  and 
engines,  and  killing  and  wounding  more  than  half  the  crew. 
The  gang  of  shovelers  is  the  railroad's  last  resort,  in  the 
mighty  snow  rights  of  each  year,  man  and  not  his  machines 
has  to  conquer  here.  I  left  the  sheds  and  were  glad  they  were 
out  of  sight.  Sherman  is  the  highest  point  on  the  Union 
Pacific  road,  named  after  General  Sherman,  the  tall  and  im 
posing  commander  in  the  Rebellion.  Here  the  snow  came 
falling  fast,  the  wind  whistled  through,  when  doors  were 
ajar. 

VISIT    TO    SALT    LAKE. 

I  passed  on  from  Laramie  toward  Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 
We  were  on  great  plains  while  looking  to  the  north  we  could 
see  the  snow  caps  of  Pike's  Peak,  in  the  distance.  Night 
coming  on  we  were  told  by  the  trainmen,  that  the  Indians 
had  been  doing  mischief  in  that  section  for  the  past  week, 
that  a  conductor  of  one  of  the  trains  had  been  shot  and  we 
were  in  slight  danger,  that  the  train  would  run  very  slow  all 
night,  in  order  to  have  no  accidents  as  the  rails  were  torn 
up  by  them  at  times.  This  advice  or  warning  was  given  us 
by  a  brakeman  about  8  p.  m.,  at  10  p.  m.,  we  came  to  a  sudden 


28 

jerk  of  the  train,  knew  something  was  wrong.  We  were 
there  to  stay  at  least  for  awhile,  our  train  was  derailed  and 
the  engine  was  off  the  track.  We  were  at  least  five  miles 
from  nowhere,  could  look  out  of  the  windows  could  see  no 
city  lights  in  the  distance;  nothing  to  be  seen  but  the  great 
plains  of  Wyoming.  A  foot  despatcher  was  sent  back  to 
the  little  flag  station,  which  we  had  passed,  a  telegram  to 
Cheyenne  for  the  train  No.  86,  west  bound,  to  be  held  there. 
Our  car  windows  and  doors  were  ordered  fastened  to  the  ut 
most.  We  were  there  for  the  night  without  doubt  unless 
we  were  the  victims  of  the  savages,  who  had  crippled  our  train 
and  stopped  us.  The  conductor  ordered  every  man  who 
had  a  revolver  to  have  it  ready.  That  we  were  liable  to  an 
attack  from  a  band  of  Apaches,  who  doubtless  would  examine 
the  train  to  find  cattle,  but  perhaps  when  they  found  no  stock 
on  the  train  we  would  not  be  further  molested.  Our  lights 
must  be  put  out  and  we  keep  profoundly  quiet,  as  if  no  human 
beings  were  in  the  cars.  At  near  12  o'clock,  we  heard  noises 
outside,  but  kept  silent  as  the  grave.  The  conductor  had  in 
formed  us  that  if  the  Indians  came  to  the  cars  and  found  no 
one  there,  they  were  liable  to  pass  on  without  molestation. 
Several  Indians  came  on  horseback,  finding  two  cars  of  coal 
and  hearing  no  noise  from  cattle,  they  went  off.  The  con 
ductor,  engineer  and  fireman  had  left  the  engine  and  were 
in  the  express  car.  Two  regiments  of  soldiers  came  from 
Cheyenne  and  guarded  the  train  while  the  track  was  being 
repaired,  and  the  engine  gotten  back  on  the  track.  At  4:30 
a.  m.,  we  were  on  the  way  again,  thankful  that  our  lives  were 
thus  spared.  We  ate  a  good  breakfast  at  Cheyenne.  Here 
a  gentleman  took  the  train  for  the  east.  He  took  a  seat  in 
front  of  Miss  Parsons  and  myself.  He  inquired  about  our 
stay  all  night  on  the  plains.  He  also  informed  us  that  women 


29 

were  scarce.  He  said  if  there  were  any  widows  or  maids  in  Illi 
nois,  where  we  were  going  to  send  them  on  to  Cheyenne.    That 
they  would  be  gobbled  up  like  hot  cakes.     I  next  was  made 
happy  by  the  sight  of  the  great  Platte  river,  and  felt  that  I 
was  nearing  home,  although  I  was  a  thousand  miles  away. 
What  a  long  road  to  the  Pacific  coast.     How  I  wonder  how 
my  uncle,   Daniel   Miller,  who  was  born  at  Hamptonsville, 
North   Carolina,  has   reached   Sprague,   Washington,   as  his 
home.     He  is  nearing  his  hundredth  birthday.     Some  of  his 
early  life  was  spent  in  Kentucky.     He  was  married  there,  and 
came  to  Illinois,  at  an  early  day.       Has  spent  the  remainder 
of  his  days  in  Oregon  and  Washington,  and  is  now  at  Fort 
Bidwell,    Modoc   county,    California,      I  rode    on    the    train 
in  sight  of  the  Platte  river  as  far  as  three  hundred  miles,  or 
"until  I  reached  Omaha.     I  really  was  glad  I  was  soon  to  see 
home  and  friends  again.     Now  the  muddy  Missouri  river"  in 
sight.     I  had  vague  ideas  of  Missouri,  as  I  had  started  out 
there  once  to  teach  school  at  Burlington  junction,  where  I 
have  cousins  living,  when  to  my  surprise  my  pocket  was  cut 
out  and  I  lost  all  my  money  being  $184.     I  had  arrived  at 
Plymouth,  Hancock  county,  Illinois.     I  expected  to  stop  off 
there  to  see  cousins.     I  did  not  go  on  to  Missouri  but  visited 
awhile  and  came  home.     I  was  soon  on  the  Great  Burlington 
Route  to  Galesburg,  Illinois.     I  came  on  to  Elmwood  and 
arriving  at  10  p.  m.,  I  decided  to  sleep  awhile.     I  went  to  a 
hotel  and  went  to  bed  with  orders  not  to  awaken  me  the 
next   morning.       It   was   a   few   minutes   of   eleven   o'clock 
when    I    got    up.       I    got    ready  for    dinner.       Then   fixed 
everything    ready    to    go    home    at    3   p.   m.,   to    Monica. 
I  had  sent  them  a  telegram  at  Creston,  Iowa,  when  I  would 
arrive  at  Monica.      There  were  some  fifteen  young  people  to 
meet  the  train   or   me   I   never   knew   which.     I   had   a   fine 


30 

trip,  new  experiences  that  one  never  meets  only  in 
travel.  Had  spent  plenty  of  money,  had  gained  in  health 
and  in  knowledge  of  countries,  people  and  things.  My 
friends  were  glad  of  my  coming,  and  I  was  gladly  welcomed. 
I  had  brought  the  news  to  mother  from  her  sisters,  that  she 
never  met  on  earth  again.  Brought  some  presents  to  her 
from  there.  But  how  glad  was  she  to  see  me,  when  I  re 
turned.  How  it  must  have  grieved  her  to  have  me  go  so 
far  away  and  wondering  whether  her  life  and  mine  would 
be  spared  until  we  should  meet  again.  She  has  passed  from 
death  unto  life.  That  life  is  one  of  tranquil  joy  for  ever 
more. 


31 


GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


On  my  way  home  from  California.  I  had  planned  a  trip  to 
Salt  Lake  City,  and  as  I  was  in  company  with  a  Mr.  Latta  and 
his  wife  and  a  Miss  Parsons,  we  all  planned  to  spend  a  few 
days  at  the  famous  Mormon  City.  It  seemed  I  knew  some 
thing  of  this  people,  as  they  had  been  driven  from  Illinois, 
they  then  starting  for  a  home  in  the  West.  They  were  at 
tracted  by  this  beautiful  valley,  where  the  sun  ever  shines  in 
the  daytime  and  is  replaced  at  night,  by  the  moonlight.  The 
water  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  is  clear  and  transparent,  with  a 
bottom  of  fine  white  sand  and  a  margin  of  incrusted  salt. 
It  is  one  of  the  purest  and  most  concentrated  brines  in  the 
whole  world.  Its  waters  sustain  no  animal  life.  There  is 
not  the  smallest  insect  or  worm  to  frighten  the  timid  bather 
and  the  bathing  is  the  most  perfect  sea-bathing  in  the  whole 
of  North  America,  or  in  Europe.  No  human  body  can  sink 
in  it.  One  may  actually  walk  the  water,  no  matter  how 
deep  it  is.  Your  body  will  rise  up  to  the  shoulders  above 
the  surface,  or  you  may  even  sit  down  in  it.  No  knowledge 
of  swimming  is  necessary;  one  may  enter  the  lake  without 
the  slightest  fear;  all  you  have  to  do  is  to  lie  down  and  float. 
But  to  swim  in  it  is  another  thing.  It  is  impossible  to  keep 
more  than  half  the  body  under  water  at  a  time.  You  can 
not  swim,  but  you  can  float  on  your  back  and  with  arms 
crossed  under  your  chin,  you  can  smoke.  The  water  is  so 
salt  that  it  cannot  be  swallowed  without  great  danger  of 
strangulation.  A  small  drop  in  the  eye  gives  much  pain. 
But  in  spite  of  all  the  dangers,  bathing  in  the  lake  is  invigor 
ating  notwithstanding  that  the  body  must  be  bathed  again 
in  fresh  water  afterwards,  to  remove  the  vast  quantities  of 


salt,  which  adheres  to  the  skin.  It  is  hard  work  to  make  any 
headway  against  the  smallest  waves.  Nearly  half  a  million 
people  bathe  in  this  lake  every  year.  They  come  from  all 
over  the  world  and  tourists  are  beginning  to  realize  that  Salt 
Lake  City  and  the  magnificent  surroundings  present  a  great 
scope  of  novelty  and  it  is  destined  to  become  a  famous  water 
ing  place.  Salt  Lake  City  is  a  beautiful  city.  To  the  north 
are  the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Utah  Mountains.  The 
Jordan  river  flowing  through  the  city  into  the  lake.  The 
streets  are  wide,  allowing  a  row  of  trees,  and  a  stream  of 
water  on  both  sides  of  the  street.  Many  of  the  buildings  are 
handsome  structures.  The  Amelia  Palace  or  the  home  of 
Brigham  Young's  favorite  wife,  among  the  fine  residences. 
Her  former  name  was  Amelia  Folsom,  being  a  cousin  to  the 
wife  of  Grover  Cleveland.  I  saw  Ann  Eliza  the  nineteenth 
wife  of  Brigham  Young,  heard  her  lecture  on  "Mormonism." 
I  have  also  read  a  famous  book  by  Fanny  Stenhouse  on  "Mor 
monism." 

There  is  the  great  Temple,  the  Tabernacle.  The  great 
organ  with  its  five  thousand  pipes.  I  saw  this  Brigham 
Young  seated  in  his  office,  talked  at  least  a  half  hour,  next  I 
saw  of  him  was  his  bust  at  the  World's  Fair  in  the  Utah 
section,  I  met  him  in  1877.  I  saw  his  statue  in  1893.  I 
should  like  to  see  more  of  those  Mormon  leaders  in  stone 
statues,  speechless.  His  death  occurred  soon  after  my  visit 
to  the  city.  He  informed  us  he  had  led  the  Mormon  pion 
eers  into  that  arid  desert,  in  1847  and  made  it  into  a  beau 
tiful  fertile  valley  and  a  great  city.  He  was  a  man  of  won 
derful  energy,  possessed  great  power  of  body  and  mind 
Oom  Paul  Kruger  reminds  me  of  Brigham  Young.  We 
think  of  Young  as  a  strong  man,  yet  we  must  not  forget  that 
this  same  man  was  behind  the  terrible  "Mountain  Meadow 


83 

Massacre"  of  defenseless  emigrants,  the  defiance  of  our  troops 
when  they  arrived  in  Utah  and  the  whole  evil  system  of  poly 
gamy  which  the  United  States  is  now  laboring  to  root  out. 
For  good  and  for  evil  of  Mormonism,  Brigham  Young  stands 
as  the  responsible  figure  and  this  the  traveler  to  Salt  Lake 
soon  finds  out,  for  the  answer  to  his  questions,  as  to  who 
built  this,  or  who  planned  that,  the  only  answer,  Brigham 
Young.  I  inquired  who  built  this  Tabernacle,  "Brigham 
Young,"  was  the  drivers  reply.  I  said,  "Oh  of  course  he 
superintended  everything,  but  who  was  the  architect  of  the 
Tabernacle,  who  designed  it?"  "Brigham  Young,"  repeated 
the  driver  with  a  laugh.  "'Twas  revealed  to  him  how  to  do 
it,"  so  he  said.  At  any  rate  he  had  them  build  it  that  way, 
and  if  it  is  funny  looking  you  can  hear  better  in  it  than  any 
hall  I  ever  was  in.  Brigham  Young  was  a  Vermont  Yankee 
and  he  was  smart  I  can  tell  ye.  There  was  no  doubt  in  our 
minds  as  to  his  smartness  when  the  Tabernacle  was  entered 
and  its  plan  understood.  Here  is  the  largest  self  supporting 
arch  in  America,  with  one  exception,  and  probably  the  only 
arch  of  its  size  without  any  central  support  that  has  ever 
been  constructed  out  of  wood.  The  hall  has  twenty  doors, 
which  open  outward,  the  room  can  be  emptied  in  a  few  min 
utes,  this  is  an  unusual  feature  and  a  very  good  one.  This 
Tabernacle  is  freely  open  to  theNpublic,  while  the  great  Temple, 
at  the  other  end  of  the  square,  is  for  Mormons  alone,  and 
no  Gentiles  can  enter.  "Go  to  the  farther  end,"  said  the 
care  taker  "and  I  will  show  you  the  acoustic  properties  of 
the  hall  by  letting  a  pin  drop  from  this  railing."  Sure  enough 
at  over  two  hundred  feet  away  we  could  hear  the  pin  tinkle 
down  on  the  railing  as  if  we  had  been  standing  only  a  few 
inches  off.  Then  the  scratching  of  the  man's  thumb-nail 
upon  the  wood  was  heard  with  absolute  distinctness. 


34 

He  began  to  tell  us  about  the  building,  and  every  word 
was  audible,  although  spoken  in  a  whisper. 

"Did  Brigham  Young  design  that  organ  too?"     asked 
Miss  Parsons,  who  was  one  of  our  party,  looking  up  at  the 
great  star  of   gaslights,   with   "Utah"   outlined   between   its 
points,  that  stood  out  on  its  front.     "No  Josiah  Ridges  built 
the  organ,  but  his  revelation  was  not  a  success  and  it  had 
to  be  built  over."     The  organ  is  now  the  second  largest  in 
the  United  States  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  sweetest.     What 
interested  us  most  was  the  quintuple  tier  of  seats  in  front  of 
its  golden  pipes  facing  the  congregation.     On  the  first  row, 
next,  the  part  of  the  great  choir  sit,  this  choir  ranges  from 
three  hundred  to  one  thousand  five  hundred  voices,   as  oc 
casion  requires.     They  won  the  second  prize  of  one  thousand 
dollars  at  the  World's  Fair  musical  contest.     While  on  the 
second  tier  the  president  of  the  Mormon  church  is  throned 
in  state,  next  below  come  the  "Twelve  Apostles :"  below  them 
the  presidents  of  states  or  railroads  or  invited   speakers   or 
other  guests  and  on  the  lowest  tier  the  church  officials  who 
dispense  the  sacrament  at  the  general  conference.     "It  must 
take  a  long  time  to  take  the  collection  here,"  one  of  us  re 
marked  laughingly.     "No  collections  are  ever  taken  at  the 
Tabernacle  services,"  replied  our  guide,  to  our  astonishment. 
We    asked   how   they   got   money*  to   run   the    church. 
"Wait,"  said  he,  "I'll  drive  you  to  the  Mormon  tithing  yard. 
Each  one  gives  his  tenth  there  every  year,  so  the  church  has 
all  it  needs  without  a  penny  being  put  in  a  plate  inside  its 
walls."    So  we  drove  by  Brigham  Young's  four  houses,  where 
he  and  his  family  of  twenty-one  wives  and  seventy-five  chil 
dren  lived  in  the  days — now  happily  over  forever — of  open 
and  permitted  polygamy,  and  into  the  wide  tithing  yard  of 
sheds  and  bins,   where  potatoes  and   wheat  and  cattle   and 
horses  and  farm  produce,  of  every  kind,  were  to  be  seen  on 


35 

every  hand.  Each  Mormon  brings  a  tenth  of  whatever  he 
has  and  if  the  tenth  does  not  seem  large  enough  to  the  church 
officials,  he  is  commanded  to  tithe  his  possession  more  hon 
estly.  There  is  a  lesson  indeed,  in  the  Salt  Lake  "tithing 
yard"  for  many  a  Christian  today. 

It  is  only  by  means  of  irrigation  that  Utah  is  productive. 
There  is  very  little  rain  there  and  very  little  timber.  Hogs 
fatten  on  a  tuber,  called  seegose  root,  which  is,  highly  es 
teemed  as  a  table  vegetable  by  the  Mormons.  The  num 
ber  of  acres  under  cultivation  is  great.  There  is  a  bunch 
grass  that  grows  wild  which  makes  fine  feed  for  cattle.  It  is 
nearly  the  same  as  the  grama  grass  of  New  Mexico.  The 
altitude  of  Salt  Lake  Valley  is  4,300  feet  above  sea  level. 
It  is  considered  one  of  the  most  healthy  portions  of  the 
globe. 

On  seeing  a  little  boy  I  asked  him  whose  boy  he  was. 
He  answered  "Brigham  Young's."  In  passing  around  the 
city,  I  read  over  a  door  a  sign,  Z.  I.  O.  C.  S.,  which  means 
Zion's  Co-operative  Store,  where  the  families  of  Brigham 
Young  order  their  groceries  for  the  week.  They  are  supplied 
by  the  church.  Young  informed  us  the  Latter  Day  Saints  were 
prospering  as  a  church.  I  met  Orson  Pratt,  then  an  apostle. 
He  was  thought  to  be  one  of  the  leaders  in  "Mountain 
Meadow  Massacre."  The  Mormon  church  sends  out  today 
more  missionaries  than  any  half  dozen  of  the  Christian 
churches.  I  never  saw  such  a  dejected  cast  down  set  of 
women  as  at  Salt  Lake  City.  Some  say  the  Mormons  are 
intelligent.  Some  few  are.  I  think  as  a  white  race,  they 
are  a  disgrace  to  the  human  family.  I  know  no  people  whom 
I  think  so  low  in  the  scale  of  humanity.  And  the  cheek  they 
do  possess. 

There  have  been  two  missionaries  in  our  town  the  last 
few  months.     They  call  and  pray  for  you,  give  you  valuable 


36 

literature.  They  came  to  me.  I  told  them  I  had  no  use  for 
them.  They  said  if  I  only,  knew  them  I  would  think  them 
good.  I  told  them  I  knew  too  much.  I  never  knew  much 
good  they  did. 

I  was  glad  to  go  on  to  Ogden  and  start  on  for  the  east. 
At  Ogden  the  trainmen  took  dinner  and  when  I  was  eating 
my  lunch  I  had  put  up  at  Salt  Lake,  a  woman  of  near  forty 
years  of  age,  was  sitting  near  me.  I  had  not  noticed  her 
before.  She  was  weeping.  I  was  sorry  for  her.  I  saw  she 
was  dressed  in  deep  mourning.  I  offered  her  some  lunch,  she 
refused  saying  she  had  eaten  nothing  for  two  days.  I  asked 
what  was  the  matter,  as  she  sobbed  violently.  She  told  me 
as  fast  as  she  oould  talk,  that  she  had  just  come  from  Salt 
Lake  City  wrhere  she  had  been  compelled  to  go  with  her  hus 
band,  for  him  to  take  another  wife.  He  and  his  new  wife 
went  out  to  the  Depot  Hotel  to  dinner,  that  they  would  be  in 
soon.  She  said  the  girl  he  had  married  was  fifteen,  she  had 
taken  her  as  an  orphan  at  six  years  old  and  the  girl  seemed 
almost  like  her  child.  She  then  told  me  they  could  not  get 
married  without  her  placing  the  right  hand  of  the  girl,  in  the 
right  hand  of  her  husband.  She  had  done  this  and  Brigham 
Young  performed  the  ceremony  according  to  the  rites  of  the 
Mormon  church.  She  was  on  her  way  home  to  a  farm  in 
eastern  Utah,  the  girl  would  still  live  in  the  same  house  with 
her,  as  she  did  before.  This  was  to  me  a  sad  tale. 

I  next  stopped  at  Green  river,  there  two  Indian  chiefs 
brought  a  deer  onto  the  platform  of  our  car  and  rode  with  us 
near  twenty  miles.  They  had  eagle  feathers  in  their  hair 
and  bear's  claws  strung  around  their  necks.  They  were 
Cheyenne  Indians  and  had  been  to  Green  river  on  a  big  deer 
hunt.  We  stopped  at  Laramie  City,  the  old  fort  being  forty 
miles  to  the  north. 


37 


LECTURE  ON  MORMONS. 


This  lecture  was  delivered  by  Artemus  Ward,  on  the 
Mormons. 

During  the  lecture  he  was  solemn  as  the  grave.  Some 
times  he  would  forget  his  audience,  and  stand  for  several  min 
utes  gazing  intently  at  his  panorama.  Then  he  would  say, 
"If  you  feel  dissatisfied  with  anything  here  tonight,  I  will 
admit  you  all  free  in  New  Zealand, — if  you  will  come  to  me 
there  for  orders.  Any  respectable  cannibal  can  tell  you  just 
where  I  live."  This  shows  that  I  possess  a  forgiving  spirit. 
I  don't  really  care  for  money,  I  only  travel  around  to  see 
the  world,  and  gratify  my  idle  curiosity,  and  yes,  to  show 
my  clothes,  I  have  some  pantaloons  now  that  are  a  sight, 
holes  in  behind,  my  wife  says,  caused  by  too  much  sitting 
but  hens  set,  and  I  never  saw  any  holes  in  their  pantaloons, 
but  I  have  seen  feathers  all  over  their  legs.  I  have  made  great 
success  in  America.  I  like  America,  but  I  don't  think  Amer 
ica  likes  me.  I  have  had  rheumatism  there  and  once  I  came 
near  getting  the  smallpox.  I  saw  a  big  snake  once,  it  fright 
ened  me  so,  I  declared  I  would  take  the  first  ship  for  Ireland, 
for  you  know  there  are  none  there.  St.  Patrick  drove  them 
out.  One  good  deed  he  did  if  he  never  did  another. 

I  am  not  an  artist.  I  don't  paint  myself  though  perhaps, 
if  I  were  a  middle  aged  lady,  I  should — yet  I  have  a  passion 
for  pictures;  I  have  had  a  great  many  pictures,  photographs 
taken  of  myself.  Some  of  them  are  very  pretty,  rather  sweet 
too  look  at  for  a  short  time, — and  as  I  said  before,  I  like 
them.  I've  always  loved  pictures.  I  could  draw  on  wood 
at  a  very  tender  age.  When  a  mere  child,  I  once  drew  a 
small  cartload  of  raw  turnips  over  a  wooden  bridge.  The 


38 

people  of  the  village  noticed  me.  I  drew  their  attention. 
They  said  I  had  a  future  before  me.  Up  to  that  time  I  had 
thought  it  was  behind  me. 

Time  passed  on.  It  always  does  by  the  way.  Time 
passed  on.  I  became  a  man.  I  have  not  distinguished  myself 
as  an  artist,  but  I  have  always  been  more  or  less  mixed  up 
with  art.  I  have  an  uncle  who  takes  photos, — and  I  have  a 
servant  who  takes, — anything  he  can  get  his  hands  on.  When 
I  was  in  Rome, — Rome  in  New  York,  I  mean, — a  sculpist 
wanted  to  sculp  me.  But  I  said  "No!"  I  saw  through  the 
designing  man.  My  model  once  in  his  hands, — he  would  have 
flooded  the  market  with  my  busts — and  I  could  not  stand  it  to 
see  everybody  going  about  with  a  bust  of  me.  Where  are 
the  boys  of  my  youth?  Some  are  amongst  you  here, — some 
are  in  America, — some  are  in  jail.  Where  are  the  girls  of  my 
youth  ?  Some  are  married.  Some  would  like  to  be.  Oh,  my 
Maria!  Alas!  she  married  another.  They  frequently  do. 
I  hope  she  is  happy, — because  I  am.  Some  people  are  not 
happy,  I  have  noticed  that.  A  gentleman  friend  of  mine  came 
to  me  one  day  with  tears  in  his  eyes.  I  said,  "why  these 
weeps  ?"  He  said  he  had  a  mortgage  on  his  farm  and  wanted 
to  borrow  two  hundred  pounds.  I  lent  him  the  money — and 
he  went  away.  Sometime  after  he  returned  with  more  tears. 
He  said  he  must  leave  me  forever.  -  I  then  ventured  to  re 
mind  him  of  the  two  hundred  pounds  he  borrowed.  He  was 
much  cut  up.  I  thought  I  would  not  be  hard  on  him, — so  I 
told  him  I  would  throw  off  one  hundred  pounds.  He  bright 
ened  up,  shook  "my  hand,  and  said :  "Old  friend,  I  won't  allow 
you  to  outdo  me  in  liberality.  I'll  throw  off  the  other  hun 
dred."  As  a  manager  I  was  always  more  successful  than  as 
an  actor.  Some  years  ago,  I  engaged  a  celebrated  living 
American  skeleton  for  a  tour  through  Australia.  He  was 


39 

the  thinnest  man  I  ever  saw.  He  was  a  splendid  skeleton. 
He  didn't  weigh  scarcely  anything;  and  I  said  to  myself: 
"The  people  of  Australia  will  flock  to  see  this  tremendous 
-curiosity."  It  is  a  long  voyage  as  you  know,  from  New 
York  to  Melbourne,  and,  to  my  utter  surprise,  the  skeleton  had 
no  sooner  got  out  to  sea  than  he  commenced  eating  in  a  most 
horrible  manner.  He  said  he  had  never  been  on  the  ocean 
before,  and  he  said  it  agreed  with  him.  I  thought  so !  I  never 
saw  a  man  eat  so  much  in  all  my  life.  Beef,  mutton,  pork; 
he  swallowed  them  all  like  a  shark;  and  between  meals  he 
was  often  discovered  behind  barrels,  eating  hard  boiled  eggs, 
or  eggs  not  cooked  at  all.  They  called  that  sucking  the 
eggs.  The  result  was  that  when  we  reached  Melbourne,  this 
infamous  skeleton  weighed  sixty-four  pounds  more  than  I 
did!  I  thought  I  was  ruined  but  I  wasn't.  I  took  him  on 
to  California,  another  very  long  sea  voyage,  and  when  I  got 
him  to  San  Francisco,  I  exhibited  him  as  a  fat  man.  This 
story  hasn't  anything  to  do  with  my  entertainment,  I  know, 
but  one  of  the  principal  features  of  my  entertainments  is  that 
it  contains  so  many  things  that  don't  have  anything  to  do 
with  it.  My  orchestra  is  small,  but  I  am  sure  it  is  good  as 
far  as  it  goes.  I  give  my  pianist  ten  pounds  a  night — and 
his  washing.  I  like  music,  but  I  can't  sing  a  tune.  As  a 
singist  I  am  not  a  success.  I  am  saddest  when  I  sing.  So 
are  those  who  hear  me.  They  are  sadder  even  than  I  am. 
I  found  music  very  soothing  when  I  was  sick  in  Utah,  I  was 
very  ill.  I  had  wasted  away,  nothing  but  skin  and  bones. 
My  nose  was  so  sharp  I  didn't  care  to  stick  it  into  other  peo 
ple's  business, — for  fear  it  would  stay  there — and  I  should 
never  get  it  out  again.  And  on  those  dismal  days  a  Mormon 
lady, — she  was  married, — though  not  so  much  as  her  hus 
band, — he  had  fifteen  wives, — she  used  to  sing  a  ballad  com- 


40 

mencing,  "Sweet  bird,  do  not  fly  away!" — and  I  told  her  I 
would  n't.  She  played  the  accordion  divinely, — accordionly 
I  praised  her. 

I  met  a  man  in  Oregon  who  hadn't  any  teeth, — not  a 
tooth  in  his  head, — yet  that  man  could  play  on  a  bass  drum 
better  than  any  one  else  I  ever  met.  He  kept  a  hotel.  They 
have  queer  hotels  in  Oregon.  I  remember  one  night  when 
they  gave  me  a  bag  of  oats  for  a  pillow.  I  had  nightmares, 
of  course.  In  the  morning,  the  landlord  said,  "How 
do  you  feel,  old  hoss,  hay?"  I  told  him  I  felt  my  oats. 
At  San  Francisco  I  went  to  a  Chinese  theater.  A  Chinese 
play  often  lasts  two  months.  Commencing  at  the 
hero's  birth,  it  is  cheerfully  conducted  forward  until  he  is 
dead  or  married.  The  night  I  was  there,  a  Chinese  comic 
vocalist  sang  a  Chinese  comic  song.  It  took  six  weeks  to 
finish  it;  but  as  my  time  was  limited,  I  went  away  at  the 
expiration  of  two  hundred  and  fifteen  verses.  There  were 
eleven  thousand  verses  to  this  song.  The  chorus  was  tural, 
lural,  dural,  ri  fol  day, — which  was  repeated  twice  at  the  end 
of  each  verse,  making  as  you  will  see,  twenty-two  thousand 
"tural,  lural,  dural,  ri  fol  davs" — and  the  man  still  lives. 


41 


TRIP  TO  ARIZONA. 


It  was  on  December  i,  1897,  that  Storey  and  I  started 
on  our  extended  trip  to  Arizona,  we  had  decided  to  take  the 
Santa  Fe  and  to  reach  it  we  had  to  take  the  Chicago  and 
Alton  railroad  to  Kansas  City.  It  had  been  a  beautiful  day, 
one  of  my  especial  friends  had  taken  dinner  with  me,  and 
land  knows  how  many  callers  I  had,  during  the  day.  My 
lady  friend  was  a  lawyer's  wife,  from  Bloomington,  and  a 
mighty  talker,  for  one  of  her  size.  We  left  our  cozy  home, 
in  the  suburbs  of  Normal  our  three  children,  horse,  cow,  chick 
ens,  and  a  couple  of  cats,  in  charge  of  a  maiden  lady,  who  had 
never  married,  either  from  choice,  thinking  like  Paul  of  single 
blessedness  or  in  other  words  her  lover  might  have  died  or 
been  killed,  or  got  some  other  girl.  I  don't  think  it  was  that 
she  could  not  get  anyone,  no  I  am  quite  sure  it  was  not  that 
she  had  never  had  a  chance.-  She  was  really  to  particular  to 
link  her  life,  with  that  of  a  man,  without  knowing  how  he 
would  turn  out.  There  are  such  wromen  in  the  world  you 
know.  I  always  thought  the  way  to  do,  was  to  marry  one  and 
turn  him  out  the  right  way.  We  had  supper  at  home,  as  our 
train  did  not  start  until  9  p.  m.,  our  tickets  having  been 
purchased  the  day  before,  so  that  we  would  have  nothing  to 
bother  us,  except  our  huge  lunch  basket  and  telescope.  Storey 
would  not  let  me  take  an  umbrella,  he  said  it  never  rained  out 
there  where  we  were  going.  We  went  to  Bloomington  on  a 
street  car.  Our  tickets  called  for  sleepers,  but  no  sleeper  could 
be  obtained.  But  we  were  not  in  mood  for  sleep,  everything 
seemed  fresh  in  our  minds,  so  we  decided  that  we  would  wait 
to  take  a  sleeper,  until  we  reached  Kansas  City.  As  it  was, 
we  had  very  comfortable  chairs  in  a  nice  Chicago  and  Alton 


42 

coach.  About  twelve  o'clock,  Storey  thought  he  might  as 
well  sleep,  as  there  was  not  much  to  pass  the  time  for  him, 
sleep  being  the  easiest  thing  for  him  to  do,  unless  it  was  to 
eat  and  he  had  not  yet  become  hungry.  He  was  soon  in  the 
land  of  dreams.  Things  went  on  well  for  some  time,  when 
all  of  a  sudden  the  train  gave  a  quick  jerk  and  suddenly  stop 
ped.  We  had  run  against  a  circumstance  of  some  kind,  I 
knew  not  what.  The  men  were  excited,  those  who  were 
awake,  while  the  women  all  slept  but  me,  but  somehow  I  felt 
that  something  might  happen,  I  would  stay  awake  and  see. 
I  always  meant  when  death  came  to  be  ready,  let  it  be  on  sea 
or  land.  Some  of  the  men  went  out  of  the  car  to  find  if  they 
could,  what  the  matter  was.  It  was  in  the  state  of  Missouri 
where  the  James'  boys  had  held  up  so  many  trains,  committing 
such  bold  robberies.  They  had  simply  struck  a  coal  shute. 
knocked  off  the  cab  from  the  engine  throwing  both  engineer 
and  fireman,  from  the  train.  They  were  both  unconscious  the 
last  we  knew.  The  train  had  run  some  distance  without  either, 
when  the  conductor  perceiving  his  situation  backed  the  train  a 
few  miles  to  Higby,  Missouri.  Got  a  new  engine  and  men,  and 
we  were  soon  on  our  way  thankful  for  our  lives. 

The  next  morning  we  arrived  at  Kansas  City,  thank 
ful  that  we  were  in  the  land  of  the  living.  We  saw  the  Santa 
Fe  agent  at  Kansas  City,  asked  him  if  sleepers  were  ready  for 
us.  He  said  he  had  our  names  for  upper  berths.  No  upper 
"berth  for  me,  it  was  too  much  for  me  to  be  laid  on  a  shelf 
for  the  night.  I  told  him,  I  did  not  want  any  such  a  thing, 
he  said,  we  had  better  see  Mr.  Conductor,  that  possibly  we 
might  make  better  arrangements,  I  thought  to  myself  that 
it  would  be  hard  to  make  any  worse  arrangements  than  to  lay 
on  that  shelf,  and  if  the  train  were  to  jerk  much  I  might 
be  pitched  right  out  in  the  walkway  of  the  car,  or  fall  on 


43 

some  colored  porter  as  he  passed  through.  I  told  Storey  in 
plain  language  that  I  was  too  large  a  woman,  that  I  could 
not  climb  to  that  perch,  even  if  I  were  so  willed.  We  sought 
the  conductor  of  our  train,  a  bulldog  of  a  fellow  I  shall  never 
forget  his  surly  way,  but  finally  he  told  us,  to  go  into  the 
chair  car,  while  he  did  a  few  errands  and  he  thought  he 
could  give  us  a  lower  berth  near  the  middle  of  the  coach. 
We  went  into  the  chair  car  as  requested,  but  instead  of  his 
coming  for  us,  as  he  agreed  to  do,  he  climbed  on  a  train  of 
eight  sleepers,  which  were  detached  from  our  train  and  was 
last  seen  at  full  speed  leaving  us  to  pleasant  dreams.  I  told 
Storey,  if  I  could  get  hold  of  that  conductor,  I  would  leave 
him  bald-headed.  There  were  numerous  other .  passengers, 
who  had  been  treated  fully  as  badly.  Two  ladies,  in  particular, 
who  were  going  from  Chicago,  to  Los  Angeles,  California. 
They  had  paid  for  their  berths,  had  taken  their  baggage  and 
lunch  into  the  sleeper,  but  were  told  to  come  into  the  chair  car 
while  the  sleeper  was  being  dusted.  There  they  were  with  us, 
a  madder  set  of  women  you  never  saw,  but  we  were  com 
forted  by  the  conductor  of  our  train,  by  he  telling  us,  that 
we  would  catch  up  with  the 'other  train,  that  he  would  tele 
graph  the  other  conductor  to  wait  at  Topeka,  Kansas,  or  La 
Junta,  Colorado.  Said  conductor  did  stop  at  Topeka,  and 
leave  the  night  clothes  of  those  women  and  their  suppers, 
which  he  had  taken  on  in  his  pell-mell  rush  for  the  west. 
We  had  to  make  the  best  of  things,  the  air  was  growing 
colder  and  little  spits  of  snow  came  through  the  open  win 
dows.  I  was  puzzled,  what  was  I  to  do  with  Storey  for  the 
night.  He  could  not  stand  the  trip  without  sleep.  I  fixed 
him  as  cozy  as  possible  in  the  corner  of  a  seat,  his  feet  reach 
ing  to  another,  his  being  long-legged  was  an  advantage  at  this 
time,  while  I  covered  him  with  his  own  overcoat  and  one  of  a 


44 

little  Englishman,  who  was  kind  enough  to  offer  his.  He 
was  a  fearless  horse-trainer,  having  been  hired  by  some  great 
horseman  of  San  Francisco,  to  go  to  New  York  City,  to  ride 
in  the  world's  races,  that  were  being  held  there.  He  reminded 
one  of  the  Darwin  theory,  he  was  so  cunning  and  active. 

This  Englishman  was  very  small,  and  as  active  as  any 
monkey.  He  had  been  a  circus  rider  and  traveled  several  years 
with  P.  T.  Barnum,  the  great  showman.  He  looked  to  be 
about  twenty  years  of  age,  but  said  he  was  forty.  He  had 
traveled  in  Mexico,  in  Central  America,  South  America.  He 
had  a  wonderful  memory,  as  well  as  high  degree  of  talent.  He 
was  the  "Tom  Twist"  we  read  of,  turn  ten  summersaults 
backward,  then  stand  half  an  hour  on  his  head.  He  was  a 
fine  scholar,  a  gentleman  in  conversation  and  appearance.  I 
felt  very  thankful  for  his  overcoat,  for  without  it  Storey  would 
have  chilled.  I  did  not  sleep  any  at  all  on  this  second  night 
on  the  train,  very  little  the  first  one.  I  was  very  sleepy,  on 
the  next  morning  and  I  thought  I  could  sleep  on  the  final  shelf. 
I  saw  that  I  must  sleep  a  little  in  daytime  in  order  to  stand 
the  trip.  I  did  not  deem  it  safe  for  both  of  us  to  sleep  at  the 
same  time.  We  were  in  a  rough  portion  of  country,  our  car 
had  some  fine  characters  in  it  too,  but  we  did  not  know  what 
kind  of  people  they  were.  The  time  passed  off  pleasantly, 
while  passing  through  Kansas,  I  had  been  nearly  to  the  Colo 
rado  line. 

My  mind  now  recalled  the  unpleasant  trip  across  the 
Smoky  Hill  river  in  a  prairie  schooner,  drawn  by  two  mules, 
my  brother  Albert  Miller  and  I  were  visiting  at  Nathan 
Stowell's,  near  Gove  City,  Kansas,  and  desiring  to  visit  R.  B. 
V.  Deal,  in  Lane  county,  we  started.  The  distance  was  near 
fifty  miles,  to  the  south.  There  was  no  railroad  by  which  we 
could  reach  our  friends.  There  was  five  in  the^  wagon.  The 


45 

mules  were  good  travelers,  they  became  somewhat  frightened 
at  my  brother's  shooting  at  antelope.  It  wras  near  noon  when 
we  reached  the  banks  of  the  Smoky  Hill  river.  There  were 
no  bridges  across  the  water  streams  in  this  section  and  we 
were  to  cross  the  old  way  of  fording.  There  were  several 
tracks,  at  different  places  into  the  river  and  from  the  looks  of 
things  it  was  extremely  difficult  to  decide,  where  was  the 
best  place  to  cross.  We  selected  one  where  the  opposite  bank 
was  not  steep.  I  begged  the  men  to  tie  the  wagon  bed  on 
with  the  long  grazing  ropes,  which  we  had  with  us.  They  did 
not  deem  it  necessary  to  tie  the  bed  on,  but  to  satisfy  me  they 
did.  When  we  had  gotten  well  into  the  middle  of  the  stream 
the  mules  stopped.  We  knew  what  the  matter  was,  we  had 
struck  quicksand.  We  were  sinking  deeper  and  deeper  into 
the  sand  the  water  was  almost  in  the  wagon-box.  Had  it  not 
been  tied,  we  would  have  taken  a. float  in  a  white  canoe  down 
the  Smoky  Hill  river.  We  whipped  and  yelled  at  the  mules, 
until  the  wagon  was  moving.  We  kept  whipping  them,  until 
we  were  safely  across.  I  have  no  use  for  a  mule,  since  that 
day.  We  returned  in  a  few  days  to  Gove  county,  but  found  out 
a  better  crossing. 

Our  conductor  had  told  us  that  we  would  change  cars  at 
La  Junta,  Colorado,  and  possibly  we  might  outflank,  that 
old  conductor  and  get  a  sleeper  for  the  next  night.  When 
we  arrived  there  the  snow  was  falling  fast  and  we 
seemed  in  what  was  a  higher  altitude.  We  looked 
around  for  an  old  friend,  Henry  Wheeler,  who  had  taken 
his  Whipp  and  settled  out  there.  I  had  heard  of  his  fine  straw 
berries.  I  should  have  thought  that  the  last  place  on  earth, 
to  raise  strawberries.  We  now  turned  our  course  of  travel 
to  the  south.  We  soon  beheld  the  Spanish  Peaks  in  the  dis 
tance  covered  with  snow.  They  were  miles  and  miles,  from 


46 

us,  but  they  seemed  very  near.  We  next  arrived  at  Trinidad. 
We  had  an  old  German  lady  on  our  train,  who  talked  dutch, 
she  had  trouble  with  her  heart,  in  this  high  altitude.  I  was 
troubled  with  nose-bleed.  We  next  reached  Raton  Pass  and 
tunnel,  altitude  9000  feet  above  the  sea.  Next  we  are  trund 
ling  over  the  stones  at  Albuquerque.  It  seemed  we  were  in 
a  stone  quarry,  in  an  ox  wagon.  We  were  now  turning  south 
west  to  the  great  plains  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  This 
was  a  long  mountonous  ride  over  the  desert,  our  grub-basket 
was  still  pretty  well  filled,  I  had  taken  so  much.  I  had  the 
good  luck  to  keep  my  appetite  all  the  way,  but  poor  Storey 
longed  for  his  home  victuals,  he  was  not  use  to  eating  cold 
victuals,  he  declared  it  would  kill  him. 

The  scenery  changed  from  the  vast  plain  to  low  moun 
tains,  the  foot-hills  of  the  Rockies.  Many  gorges,  rocks,  small 
pines  now  met  our  view.  As  we  approached  Flagstaff,  the 
pines  were  larger,  here  were  sawmills,  huge  lumber  yards. 
Here  is  where  one  takes  the  stage  to  go  to  the  Grand  Canyon 
of  the  Colorado.  Here  we  saw  all  kind  of  Indian  traps  for 
sale.  On  we  sped  until  we  reached  a  great  tunnel,  this  tunnel 
is  near  the  town  of  Williams.  About  ten  days  after  we  reached 
Prescott,  this  tunnel  took  fire  from  volcanic  combustion,  ren 
dering  it  impossible  for  trains  to  pass,  until  a  way  was  cut 
around  the  tunnel.  Many  men  lost  their  lives  in  the  fire,  and 
in  trying  to  repair  the  tunnel.  We  had  thought  sure  to  have 
a  sleeper  to  ride  in  by  this  time,  but  no  sleeper.  We  were  get 
ting  quite  weary  and  reached  Ash  Fork  at  4  p.  m.  Here  we 
had  to  leave  our  "California  party,  but  three  gentleman  of  the 
party  took  the  Prescott  and  Phoenix  railroad  with  us.  I  in 
quired  of  the  conductor,  soon  after  our  train  started,  what  time 
we  would  arrive  at  Prescott.  He  said  it  would  not  be  late, 
but  that  it  would  be  after  dark.  Such  mountain  scenery  I  had 


47 

not  beheld  since  my  trip  home  from  California  in  1876.  I 
had  sent  a  letter  to  my  cousins  at  Prescott,  telling  them  when 
I  left  home.  I  had  one  own  cousin  and  two  second  cousins, 
that  I  had  seen,  also  my  cousin  J.  L.  Miller  and  his  son's 
widow. 

I  knew  my  cousin  S.  C.  Miller  was  away  from  home.  He 
was  out  in  the  Squaw  Peak  country,  that  Cousin  Jacob  was  at 
his  home,  at  Skull  Valley  about  twenty  miles  south  of  Prescott. 
When  the  whistle  blew,  my  heart  was  in  my  mouth,,  I  wondered 
if  anyone  would  meet  us.  When  we  alighted  from  the  cars, 
there  stood  my  second  cousin  Mrs.  Sanders  and  her  daughter, 
a  young  lady.  My  cousin  Sam's  only  daughter,  Hetty  and  his 
second  son,  Henry,  were  there  to  welcome  us.  We  rode  to 
their  home,  a  mile  distant  to  Miller's  Valley,  where  a  large 
fire-place,  rilled  with  large  pine  logs  welcomed  us.  Such  a 
smell  from  the  burning  pine.  Cousin  Sam's  wife  was  glad  to 
see  us.  She  and  her  mother  were  the  first  white  woman  in  Ari 
zona.  Many  of  her  husband's  relatives  have  visited  them  in  the 
West.  She  holds  a  ready  welcome  to  all.  Here  we  found  three 
little  boys:  Sam,  John  and  little  Tom,  who  was  a  bright  boy  of 
three  years.  Another  member  of  the  family,  I  must  not  fail 
to  mention.  A  man,  whom  they  called  Hela  because  of  his 
huge  dimensions.  He  was  near  severf  feet  high,  of  large  and 
powerful  frame,  weight  three  hundred  pounds.  He  had 
been  in  the  family  fifteen  years.  He  was  one  of 
the  most  faithful  of  creatures.  His  age  he  did  not  exactly 
know,  but  he  came  from  Indiana,  at  an  early  date. 

My  cousin's  house  was  an  old  landmark.  Part  of  it  built 
of  logs,  in  the  early  days  of  Arizona.  He  had  built  on  to  it 
at  different  times.  Here  was  the  stone  foundation  of  his  large 
barn,  which  the  Indians  had  burned.  Here  he  has  farmed, 
freighted  and  fought  Indians.  He  told  us  of  many  hair- 


IS 

breadth  escapes  from  them.  At  times  his  buildings  being 
fired  by  them,  his  only  method  of  escape  being  his  good  horse 
and  sharp  shooting.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Fourteenth 
Legislature.  He  has  moved  the  capital  of  Arizona  three  times, 
from  Prescott  to  Tuscon,  then  back  to  Prescott,  then  from 
Prescott  to  Phoenix.  My  cousin  J.  L.  Miller's  home  was  at 
Skull  Valley,  twenty  miles  to  the  south. 

He  died  at  Prescott  April  7,  1899.  On  April  8,  his  wife 
died  at  Neosha,  Kansas.  She  was  a  Miss  Jane  Reeves,  of 
Princeville,  Illinois.  S.  C.  Miller  discovered  the  first  gold 
in  Arizona  on  Lynx  creek.  We  remained  at  Prescott  for  two 
months,  and  during  that  time  I  never  heard  of  a  death,  nor  saw 
a  funeral  train.  I  never  saw  such  healthy  rosy  cheeked  chil 
dren,  the  climate  is  one  of  perpetual  sunshine.  No  wind  to 
speak  of.  At  Prescott  light  snow  in  winter.  The  snow  would 
lie  on  the  limbs  of  trees  for  days,  no  wind  to  blow  it  off.  Al 
titude  of  Prescott  is  5400  above  the  sea.  In  the  fall,  horses 
are  shipped  to  Phoenix,  to  winter  on  alfalfa  pasture. 

In  many  parts  of  Arizona,  one  can  sleep  out  of  doors 
the  year  round,  simply  by  spreading  a  canvas  on  the  snow, 
and  then  putting  down  the  bed.  There  is  no  moisture  from 
dew,  or  rain.  In  the  north,  pine  wood  is  the  fuel,  but  in  the 
south  they  burn  mosquite  and  iron-wood.  The  iron-wood, 
when  burning  throws  out  a  delicate  perfume,  something  like 
old  soap  grease.  I  liked  the  smell  of  the  burning  pine  at 
Prescott.  It  seemed  healthy,  the  only  bad  thing  about  the 
heavy  pines,  that  I  heard  was,  that  they  bred  bed-bugs,  mak 
ing  it  hard  for  housekeepers  to  keep  rid  of  them.  It  was  here 
at  Miller's  Valley  that  I  was  again  tempted  to  teach.  There 
was  a  small  school,  and  the  directors  were  anxious  to  have 
me  teach  it,  offering  me  seventy-five  dollars  per  month.  But 
Storey  could  not  spare  me  six  hours  a  day  for  the  little  ur- 


49 

chins,  so  I  declined.  They  had  a  teacher,  a  woman,  I 
will  not  say  a  lady,  they  dismissed  her  because  she 
clrank  too  much  whisky.  Here  at  Prescott  I  saw  a 
large  gold  nugget,  it  was  worth  five  hundred  and  fifty  dol 
lars.  It  was  held  by  one  of  the  banks.  Here  we  met  Louis 
Stevenson,  son  of  Ex- Vice-President  Stevenson,  of  our  home 
town,  Bloomington,  Illinois.  He  gave  me  some  fine  mineral 
specimens.  He  was  superintendent  of  forty  mines,  known  as 
the  Phoebe  Hearst  mines,  widow  of  the  late  Senator  Hearst, 
from  California.  Stevenson  is  now  in  New  Mexico. 

I  heard  here  of  the  Cliff  Dwellers,  in  their  homes  in  the 
rocks.  Perhaps  none  that  I  had  met  at  the  World's  Fair. 
I  was  ever  interested  in  the  world  at  large,  wanted  to  see 
and  know,  what  was  in  the  world,  and  everywhere  I  have 
been,  I  have  poked  in  my  nose,  to  find  out  all  I  could  without 
being  thought  too  inquisitive.  I  must  confess,  that  I  do  think 
the  nicest  thing  in  the  world,  for  one  to  do,  is  to  travel,  ex 
plore  and  study,  what  you  come  in  contact  with,  and  do  all 
the  good  you  can.  This  is  what  Paul  did.  What  the  great 
and  good  Moody  did.  How  good  for  the  passengers  of  the 
sinking  vessel,  to  have  Moody  on  board.  Just  think  of  his 
prayer,  to  save  them,  when  he  left  the  stateroom,  where  he 
had  taken  his  son  William,  and  Captain  Howard  to  pray,  how 
he  calmed  the  passengers,  by  telling  them  a  ship  would  come 
for  them,  that  he  was  there,  that  his  life  work  for  God  was  not 
yet  done.  In  only  a  few  hours,  came  the  ship,  Huron  and 
took  them  safely  to  Queenstown,  Ireland.  There  he  preached 
to  those  who  had  been  on  the  sea,  and  those  who  were  on  the 
land,  pointing  them  to  the  Lamb  of  God,  which  taketh  away 
the  sin  of  the  world.  Think  of  his  last  words  "God  is  call 
ing  me."  I  heard  him  preach  at  the  great  Auditorium,  in 
Chicago,  in  time  of  the  World's  Fair,  also  at  Galesburg,  111., 


50 

for  the  period  of  one  week  at  State  Sunday  School  Conven 
tion. 

At  Prescott  I  visited  the  cemetery,  as  my  Uncle  John 
Miller  was  buried  there.  He  had  gone  to  California  before 
I  was  born.  He  was  buried,  October  7,  1877.  The  rock  was 
blasted  for  his  grave.  Here  now  lies  his  son  J.  L.  Miller. 
April  8,  1899. 

Here  are  some  Chinese  graves  covered  with  rice,  pork,  tea, 
and  chopsticks  so  the  dead  can  eat  on  the  way  to  Eternity. 
The  cemetery  is  a  picturesque  place.  The  trips  over  the  rocks, 
were  delightful,  the  air  seemed  so  bracing  and  balmy.  I 
visited  the  Chinese  stores,  bought  a  back  scratcher,  as  I  thought 
that  would  be  a  useful  article  in  a  family  and  Storey  thought 
so  too.  It  consists  of  an  ivory  hand  with  fingers  and  thumb, 
the  whole  glued  into  a  hardwood  handle  of  mansanita.  The 
vegetation  to  me  was  a  novelty.  Instead  of  the  oak,  the  elm, 
hickory,  walnut,  maple,  there  is  the  cedar  and  pine,  the  mos- 
quite  sage  bush.  At  Phoenix,  we  find  all  the  tropical  fruits. 
Very  little  in  some  of  the  Mountain  Valleys.  .They  raise 
peaches  in  the  Black  Hills,  eighteen  miles  from  Prescott.  At 
Skull  Valley  we  found  fine  Ben  Davis  apples,  that  were  home 
grown.  A  letter  from  a  lady  friend  in  Phoenix  dated  January 
28,  1900,  says,  "not  one  bad  day  yet  this  winter,  but  perfect 
sunshine."  Soil  at  Prescott  is  sandy.  Chinese  do  nearly  all 
the  gardening. 

Storey  was  offered  a  position  in  the  bank  of  Arizona  as 
bookkeeper.  Salary  one  hundred  dollars  a  month,  but  as  my 
life  partner  had  never  taken  up  that  line  of  business  he  felt 
inadequate  to  the  task. 

The  people  of  Arizona  are  trying  hard  to  reach  state 
hood.  There  are  many  Mormon  settlements  in  different  sec 
tions,  doubtless  might  send  a  man  to  Congress,  who  would  try 


51 

as  hard  as  B.  M.  Roberts,  for  a  seat.  All  such  men  deserve 
seats,  in  a  stone  penitentiary,  but  not  in  Washington,  D.  C.r 
in  the  Congress  of  United  States.  In  Arizona  there  is  a 
stream  of  water  known  as  the  Hasayampa  creek,  the  story 
is  told,  that  one  who  crosses  this  stream,  or  drinks  of  its 
waters  never  tell  the  truth  again.  They  will  never  leave  the 
territory  and  stay.  Like  the  cat,  they  will  come  back.  Now  I 
don't  believe  in  ghosts,  and  do  not  favor  any  kind  of  super 
stition,  but  if  you  were  out  there  awhile,  you  would  think 
there  might  be  some  truth  in  it.  It  was  on  this  creek,  called 
by  some  a  river,  that  the  richest  gold  fields  are  found.  The 
town  of  Wickenburg  is  near  the  Hasayampa.  It  is  now  on 
the  Prescott  and  Phoenix  railway.  The  residents  of  Wicken 
burg  are  mostly  miners  and  their  families  and  Mexicans.  It 
was  on  the  stage  route  from  Los  Angeles,  California  to  Pres 
cott. 

Prescott  is  in  the  center  of  a  rich  mining  district,  the  city 
situated  in  a  basin  with  mountains  on  all  sides.  A  delightful 
climate  for  summer  and  winter.  It  is  the  county  seat  of 
Yavapai  county.  It  has  three  banks,  several  large  hotels,  five 
churches,  bakeries,  restaurants,  stores,  saloons,  assay  offices 
and  is  a  city  in  every  respect.  I  never  saw  a  single  police 
man,  during  my  sojourn  there.  The  criminal  is  arrested 
by  a  posse  and  sheriff.  Every  man  is  his  own  policeman. 
Prescott  suffered  a  great  fire  this  year,  caused  by  a  man 
lighting  a  match  to  get  a  glass  of  beer.  They  have  a 
nice  court  house  with  a  large  plaza,  in  full  Mexican  style. 
The  mineral  wealth  attracted  my  attention.  In  the  jewelry 
stores,  they  were  no  brass  things.  It  was  common 
to  see  a  fifty  dollar  ring.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful  jew 
els  I  ever  saw  were  there.  There  were  minerals  from  different 
mining  sections  placed  in  windows,  piles  of  valuable  onyx 


52 

lying  about.  Mr.  Blandy,  general  superintendent  of  the  mines, 
gave  me  some  of  the  finest  samples  all  labeled,  to  take  with 
me  to  my  home  in  the  east.  I  have  some  fine  samples  of  onyx. 
Storey  saw  one  block  of  it  weighing  9500  pounds  at  the  Santa 
Fe  depot.  It  was  to  be  shipped  east,  had  been  hauled  from 
the  mines,  on  a  large  wagon  drawn  by  sixteen  horses.  The 
wheels  of  the  wagon  were  as  high  as  a  man.  These  horses 
were  driven  by  one  line. 

Mines  could  be  reached  in  any  direction  from  Prescott,  at  a 
distance  of  from  ten  to  one  hundred  miles.  There  are  stages 
to  all  the  mines,  besides  ore  teams  and  pack  mules.  The  great 
copper  mine,  at  Jerome  is  the  richest  copper  mine  in  the  world. 
Jerome  has  suffered  two  great  fires.  Tom  Morrow 
and  his  oldest  son,  from  Head  of  Elms,  Texas,  are  at 
Jerome.  Mr.  Morrow  will  be  remembered  by  old  friends 
at  Princeville,  Peoria  county,  Illinois.  His  wife  \vas  Mary 
Jane  Irwin,  daughter  of  Samuel  Irwin,  of  Princeville, 
Illinois.  The  names  of  the  mines  are  even  of  in 
terest.  The  following  names,  I  mention  as  some  of 
the  most  noted,  Big  Bug  mines  were  on  the  Big  Bug 
creek;  Sunset,  Chapparell,  Red  Rock,  Silvel  Cliff,  Big  Crow, 
The  Congress,  Lost  and  White  Lady  mines.  There  is  a  large 
and  high  mountain,  just  north  of  the  Miller  ranch,  about  a 
mile  from  Prescott,  known  as  Thumb  Butte.  Be  where  you 
would  this  mountain  was  always  facing  you.  In  the  north 
east  part  of  Miller's  Valley  is  Fort  Whipple,  a  United  States 
military  post.  It  was  established  there  as  a  protection  to  the 
Whites  from  Indians.  We  visited  the  Fort  at  different  times, 
as  it  was  a  nice  walk  froni  Prescott.  At  9  a.  m.,  each  morn 
ing  the  soldiers  were  out  for  drill.  I  enjoyed  the  fine  music 
very  much,  and  see  the  tall  commander  giving  his  orders,  to 
his  soldiers.  At  sunrise  every  morning  a  cannon  was  fired  at 


53 

the  Fort  to  awaken  the  soldiers,  ere  the  morning  star.  I 
obtained  from  a  soldier,  a  cartridge  from  his  Crag-Jargason 
gun.  These  guns  are  the  finest  thing  in  the  gun  line,  I  ever 
saw.  They  held  sixteen  cartridges,  then  there  were  sixteen 
more  in  the  soldier's  belt,  ready  to  re-load  when  the  gun  was 
empty.  No  wonder  they  shot  the  Spaniards.  In  the  spring 
of  1898,  Fort  Whipple  was  abandoned,  the  soldiers  were  sent 
to  Jefferson  Barracks,  Missouri,  they  were  then  sent  on  in  a 
few  weeks  to  Cuba.  The  soldier's  home  at  Fort  Whipple  are 
now  empty.  Many  sad  hearts  in  the  mountain  city  when  the  sol 
diers  left  for  the  east,  but  such  is  war.  These  soldiers  knew 
nothing  of  Indian  fighting.  Indians  don't  care  for  blue  clothes, 
laced  boots  and  cocked  hats.  One  old  mountaineer  will  kill 
more  Indians  than  a  whole  regiment  of  stepping  soldiers. 
Such  moonlight  I  never  saw  as  at  Prescott,  nor  such  sunshine 
as  at  Phoenix.  The  moonlight  almost  equalled  our  electric 
light.  After  we  had  been  at  Cousin  Sam's  awhile,  and  visited 
my  other  cousins,  we  decided  to  get  some  furnished  rooms 
and  keep  house.  We  found  a  fine  room  with  a  fire-place.  We 
enjoyed  the  fire-place  so  much  at  Cousin  Sam's,  we  thought 
this  room  just  the  thing. 

We  had  stayed  there  just  one  night,  when  Storey  declared 
he  could  not  stand  it.  The  fire-place  smoked.  Storey  said  that 
smoke  was  all  right  for  bacon  and  dried  beef,  but  it  not  apply 
in  his  case.  We  found  out  by  talking  with  people  that  instead 
of  smoke  wanting  to  rise,  as  it  did  in  Illinois,  that  it  had  no 
desire  of  going  up  any  farther,  but  remain  with  us,  unless  the 
fire-place  was  very  large  and  had  a  free  draught.  It  is  all  in 
the  altitude.  One  can  scarcely  boil  eggs,  beans  must  boil  a 
good  half  day  if  you  want  them  digestible.  We  decided  that 
we  move  again,  our  eyes  almost  out.  Storey  must  have  his 
regular  amount  of  sleep.  We  found  two  rooms  near  by,  got 


54 

moved.  We  were  then  invited  to  Cousin  Sam's  to  see  his  old 
est  son  Robert  and  his  wife,  who  had  come  to  visit  them. 
His  son  lived  to  the  southwest  near  forty  miles,  on  the  Santa 
Maria  river.  Their  home  was  known  as  "Happy  Camp." 
There  were  no  white  people  living  nearer  than  twenty  miles, 
but  the  Indians  were  the  friendly  tribes  of  the  Walapais. 
These  Indians  are  a  strong-  healthy  set,  but  very  filthy.  Their 
houses  are  made  of  the  branches  of  trees,  but  some  of  them  live 
in  tents.  The  climate  is  warm  in  the  Santa  Maria  Valley.  No 
snow  ever  falling  there.  It  is  a  great  cattle  section.  Robert 
Miller  is  a  cattleman. 

The  Indians  are  an  interesting  race.     From  the  time  they 
were  first  seen  by  Columbus  until  the  present  time. 

There  are  at  this  writing  thirty-seven  thousand  Indians  in 
Arizona.  This  includes  those  at  the  two  Indian  schools  at 
Phoenix  and  Tuscon.  I  visited  the  school  at  Phoenix,  on 
asking  an  Indian,  if  he  liked  to  be  a  white  man,  he  said  no, 
white  men  all  squaws.  (He  meant  white  men  have  to  work.) 
While  in  Prescott  I  visited  my  second  cousin,  Mrs.  Serilda 
Carter.  She  has  a  nice  home  in  the  city,  her  husband 
has  a  cattle  ranch  eighteen  miles  distant  in  the  Black 
Hills.  They  spend  their  winters  in  the  city,  as  Mr.  Carter 
fills  different  offices  at  the  court  house.  I  have  another 
second  cousin  in  Prescott.  Mrs.  Cynthia  Sanders.  She  had 
located  in  Prescott  for  the  schools,  but  her  home  is  on  a 
ranch  at  Hillside,  forty  miles  away,  near  the  famous  "Egg 
Rock."  This  rock  sets  upon  another  large  rock.  The  egg 
is  about  fifty  feet  in  length.  At  Prescott  I  met  the  Reverend 
Chas.  Jenness  and  wife,  the  Methodist  minister  and  his  wife. 
I  found  them  fine  people,  and  a  Baptist  man  and  his  wife,  by 
name  of  Clos.  I  met  an  Assayer,  Barnhart,  who  bought  of  an 
old  miner  a  bag  of  ore  for  twenty-five  dollars  one  Saturday 


55 

morning,  but  before  sundown  it  was  melted  into  a  gold  bar  and 
sold  for  seventy  dollars.  It  was  this  Assayer  who  offered  his 
fine  mineral  cabinet,  in  exchange  for  a  pretty  girl.  The  cab 
inet  was  one  of  the  finest  things  I  ever  saw.  Valued  at  five 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  Women  are  scarce.  Our  surplus 
of  old  maids  and  grass  wridders  would  do  well  to  migrate. 

After  two  months  in  and  around  Prescott,  we  finding  the 
air  chilly  decided  to  move  southward,  making  a  stop  at  Skull 
Valley,  twenty  miles  to  the  south.     The  place  was  so  named 
as  the  few  whites  there  had  placed  an  old  Indian  skull,  on  a 
high  post,  to  mark  the  station,  and  many  an  Indian  and  white 
.skulls  are  scattered  over  the  valley.     This  was  down  hill  all 
the  way  from  Prescott,  and  south  of  Prescott,  and  it  is  so 
queer  for  the  train  to  start  to  the  northwest  but  it  was  easier 
to  go  around  the  mountain,  than  to  cut  a  tunnel  through  it. 
This  Skull  Valley  we  reached  at  2  o'clock,  in  the  morning.    My 
cousin's  widow  lived  two  miles  from  the  station.     The  train 
was  late.     Our  cousins  had  been  for  us  but  had  gone  home. 
There  was  a  boarding  house,  the  depot  and  one  saloon  and  one 
or  two  houses  in  the  village.     The  agent  informed  us,  that 
my  cousins  would  come  for  us  very  early  in  the  morning.    We 
went  to  the  boarding  house,  got  a  bed,  slept  some  but  before 
we  were  through  breakfast,  Charley  Miller,  a  third  cousin,  was 
after  us.     We  were  gladly  welcomed  by  Rachel,  my  second 
cousin's  widow,  her  husband  being  found  dead  in  bed  by  her 
side.    She  had  just  returned  from  Kansas  City,  where  she  had 
been  for  surgical  treatment,  when  he  died.     She  was  left  with 
seven  children,  and  a  mortgage  on  her  home.     She  has  paid 
the  mortgage,  her  oldest  daughter  was  two  years  a  teacher  in 
the  county  schools,  her  two  oldest  sons  are  grown.     Harley 
is  seventeen  years  old  and  six  and  one-half  feet  in  height. 
She   bought    and    paid    cash    for    a    Home    Comfort    cook- 


56 

stove  \yhile  I  was  there.  Her  daughter  is  now  married,  to 
Roy  Redden,  of  Tempe,  and  while  this  book  is  writing 
Mrs.  Redden  has  died  of  measels  leaving  two  small  chil 
dren.  Her  oldest  son  Charley,  won  first  prize,  at  Phoenix 
Cattle  Show  for  being  the  quickest  one  to  lasso  and 
tie  a  brute,  to  brand.  He  accomplished  the  feat,  in 
three  minutes  and  a  half.  Second  cousin  Roll  Miller,  his 
father  is  buried  at  Skull  Valley.  A  nice  monument  marks  the 
place.  It  can  be  seen  from  the  depot.  His  death  was  caused  by 
heart  trouble.  This  valley  was  a  good  place  to  raise  corn, 
hay,  garden,  but  the  chief  industry  is  cattle  raising.  Three 
miles  from  this  station  to  the  east  were  rich  gold  mines.  At 
the  station  I  saw  an  old  man,  McFinnan  by  name,  who  owned 
a  mine  close  by,  each  day  he  shouldered  his  pick,  and  packed 
his  mule  with  such  things  as  he  wanted,  would  go  to  his  mine 
and  dig  until  he  got  as  much  as  he  wanted,  then  would  use 
that  until  it  was  gone,  then  go  and  dig  more.  He  only  had 
one  arm,  his  left  arm  being  torn  off  in  a  quartz  mill.  It 
seemed  queer  to  me,  that  he  could  dig  his  gold  and  trade  it 
for  tobacco,  flour,  or  anything  he  wanted,  but  such  is  life  in 
Arizona. 

The  next  house  south  of  my  Cousin  Rachel's,  lived  an 
other  relative,  the  oldest  daughter  of  Cynthia  Sanders,  but 
now  married  to  Edward  Blackburn.  Her  husband  had  killed 
three  deer  during  the  winter.  We  had  some  of  the  venison. 
Here  we  saw  home  grown  apples  of  Ben  Davis  variety  that 
were  fine. 

There  was' a  dance  at  the  school-house  while  we  were 
there.  Some  of  the  dancers  came  twenty  miles.  We  did  not 
attend.  There  were  some  thirty  couple  in  attendance.  As 
there  was  only  one  daily  passenger  train,  we  took  the  evening 
train  for  Phoenix,  however  it  was  not  behind  time,  and  we 


57 

got  started  before  Storey  got  sleepy.  Our  tickets  were  so  very 
accommodating,  we  could  stop  off  where  we  liked,  stay  as 
long  as  we  pleased,  and  not  a  whimper  out  of  the  conductors. 
They  were  filled  with  holes.  We  got  to  Phoenix  at  near  2 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  stopped  at  nearest  hotel. 

We  had  an  old  friend  of  ours,  from  Illinois  pass  through 
Prescott,  bound  for  Phoenix.  He  had  been  in  California  for 
the  year  and  decided  to  try  Phoenix.  His  name  was  William 
Wilson,  he  was  an  interesting  gentleman  of  near  fifty  years 
and  unmarried.  He  was  not  stingy.  He  had  given  six  thou 
sand  dollars  to  missions  the  year  before.  He  had  informed 
Storey  that  he  would  stop,  at  the  Alhamb^ra  Hotel,  in 
Phoenix.  We  went  to  the  hotel,  but  he  had  gone  out  into 
the  country  to  a  Mr.  Rodmans,  a  man  from  M'cLean  county, 
Illinois.  We  decided  to  find  the  Mayor  of  Phoenix  as  we 
had  a  letter  to  him  from  Cousin  Sam  at  Prescott.  We  found 
the  Mayor  and  gave  our  letter  and  he  assisted  us  in  getting 
rooms  for  house-keeping.  His  name  was  James  Monohan, 
We  found  several  persons  from  home.  Ex-Governor  Hamil 
ton,  Dr.  Cole  and  family.  Mr.  Grier  and  family.  Mr.  Bates 
inquired,  why  all  the  trains  run  in  the  night.  Answer  was, 
to  take  the  dead  people  out,  without  the  live  ones,  finding  it 
out.  Phoenix  has  many  fine  buildings,  hotels,  Ford  and 
Adams  are  among  the  best.  «Many  fine  stores,  good  pave 
ments,  electric  lights,  street  cars,  run  by  electricity.  We  found 
a  house  to  suit  at  last.  It  was  handy  to  the  postoffice.  No 
free  delivery  of  mail,  either  there  or  at  Prescott.  The  only 
thing  they  were  behind  in. 

Our  home  in  Phoenix  was  on  the  corner  of  First  avenue 
and  Van  Buren  street.  It  was  near  the  Methodist  church,  the 
school  building  of  one  of  the  wards,  in  the  next  block  across 
the  street.  We  called  on  Dr.  Cole,  at  his  office.  Mrs.  Cole 


58 

called  on  me.  The  flies  bothered  me  considerable,  our  rooms 
were  on  the  south  side  of  the  house;  we  were  too  warm.  I 
suffered  with  the  heat  in  midwinter.  In  August  the  heat  is 
intolerable,  killing  flies,  mosquitoes;  the  heat  kills  all  the 
insect  life.  The  inhabitants  in  the  hot  weather  change  under 
wear  several  times  a  day.  But  it  is  no  trouble  to  dry  under 
wear  for  the  sun  is  so  hot,  that  anything  will  dry  that  is 
out  doors. 

Here  we  met  Dr.  Lewis  Halsey  the  Baptist  minister  of 
the  First  Baptist  church.  He  was  a  fine  man.  Had  come  to 
Phoenix  from  New  York  City  in  1895  on  account  of 
his  wife's  health,  who  had  lung  trouble.  Phoenix  is 
a  wonderful  place  for  the  lungs,  but  too  many  go  there 
too  late.  I  met  several  persons  there  who  appeared 
in  fair  health  said  to  possess  one  lung.  A  letter 
from  a  friend  in  Phoenix  states  Mrs.  Halsey  died  January  2, 
1900.  We  found  many  pleasant  people  in  Phoenix.  A  Mr. 
Arthur  Fisher  and  wife.  He  was  the  proprietor  of  the  Star 
bakery.  He  was  very  kind  to  us.  He  took  us  out  with  his 
family  several  times  in  his  surrey,  for  a  drive  around  the 
city.  The  alfalfa  fields  were  very  green  on  February  5,  and 
about  three  feet  high. 

1  met  a  Mr.  Greene,  and  his  sister  Mrs.  Ellen  Griffin, 
formerly  of  Peoria,  Illinois.  I  rode  to  the  bed  of  Salt  river, 
to  find  it  dry,  the  water  all  being  turned  into  the  canals,  for 
irrigating  purposes.  The  river  bed  was  full  of  sand,  to  the 
south  of  the  river  are  the  Phoenix  Mountains.  The  insane 
asylum  is  located  southeast  of  the  city  on  the  Tempe  road. 
My  cousin  Thomas  Miller  was  buried  in  Asylum  Cemetery, 
in  1892.  There  are  more  cases  of  insanity  in  Arizona,  ac 
cording  to  population  than  anywhere  in  United  States.  It 
seems  the  hot  climate,  the  altitude,  excitement  and  drink  are 
the  elements  that  rack  the  brain. 


59 

A  Rev.  Brewer,  from  Clinton,  Iowa,  was  at  Phoenix  at  the 
same  time,  we  were.  He  informed  me  that  an  old  childhood 
friend  of  mine,  who  lives  at  Clinton,  Jacob  Walliker  was  a 
deacon  in  his  church  being  of  Baptist  denomination.  Had 
a  fine  family  and  fine  home.  We  visited  the  high  school. 
There  to  our  surprise  we  met  an  old  Normal  graduate,  Mr. 
Blount,  whose  wife  had  been  an  old  classmate  with  Storey. 
After  we  introduced  ourselves  and  he  finding  that  we  were 
from  his  old  home,  he  took  us  through  the  building  introduc 
ing  us  to  his  teachers,  and  thus  making  us  feel  at  home.  The 
schools  of  Arizona  are  fine.  Teachers  have  to  work  for  certifi 
cates. 

I  saw  the  fine  home  of  Whitelaw  Reid  who  claims  the 
climate  there  equal  to  that  of  Southern  France.  He  has  spent 
several  winters  at  Phoenix  and  at  Nice,  France.  A  fine  new 
building  for  the  Florence  Crittendon  Home  was  building.  It 
is  being  built  almost  entirely  by  subscription.  I  gave  my  mite 
for  this  worthy  object.  It  is  one  of  the  homes  for  fallen 
women. 

The  next  thing  to  call  my  attention  is  some  Indian  women 
running  along  the  street  carrying  the  ollas  on  their  heads 
filled  with  water.  I  wondered  if  the  Indian  would  feel  as 
much  the  loss  of  home  and  friends  as  we,  if  they  should  be 
taken  to  live  in  the  white  man's  home.  No  doubt  they  would. 
No  camp-fire  to  sit  by  and  hear  the  warrior  tell  of  his  hunting 
the  deer  and  bear.  No  corn  to  pound  for  supper,  no  fish  to 
roast  on  the  smoking  coals. 

The  out  door  concerts  were  attractive  to  me.  The  band 
out  every  afternoon,  and  hundreds  of  people  in  the  parks.  I 
attended  a  Martha  Washington  party  at  Baptist  church.  The 
characters  were  in  costume.  George  Washington,  LaFayette, 
Martha  Washington  were  the  best  fitted  as  to  dress.  It  was 


60 

our  luck  to  meet  the  Mexican  Consul  DeVaro  in  his  home. 
Of  all  the  polite  gentlemen  of  my  time,  he  is  the  one. 

Consul  DeVaro  is  a  Spaniard,  master  of  Spanish,  Eng 
lish,  German,  Latin,  French,  Greek,  and  Indian  languages. 
I  was  very  much  interested  in  this  man.  He  knew  so  much, 
with  no  swelling  of  the  head  at  all.  Storey  had  fun  with  me, 
as  we  departed  from  his  palace,  he  took  my  arm  down  the  steps 
to  the  gate,  for  fear  that  I  should  fall.  Storey  kept  his  face 
straight  till  we  got  away,  and  then  had  a  hearty  laugh. 

The  drawn  linen  work  by  the  Mexican  women  is  very 
beautiful  and  worth  much  money.  It  lays  our  Battenburg 
laces  and  embroideries  far  in  the  back-ground. 

While  in  Phoenix  I  listened  to  the  great  Bishop  McCabe. 
It  was  a  sermon  on  missions  and  one  of  the  finest  I  ever  heard. 
During  this  service,  an  old  lady  who  sat  at  my  right,  took  my 
hand  and  said  who  is  my  neighbor.  I  told  her  my  name  and 
where  was  my  home.  I  was  surprised  when  she  told  me  that 
she  was  blind,  almost  totally.  She  informed  me,  that  she 
would  call  on  me  the  next  day  at  3  p.  m.  She  was  Mrs. 
Adams,  the  wife  of  first  Methodist  missionary  in  Arizona,  he 
too  being  blind  at  this  time.  I  wondered  how  she  would 
find  the  way.  She  knew  the  streets  of  Phoenix,  like  I  knew 
the  rooms  of  my  home.  She  drove  and  brought  a  lady  with 
her.  Mrs.  Adams  informed  me,  that  she  and  her  aged  hus 
band  had  built  the  church  at  Prescott.  That  the  plans  of  the 
church  and  parsonage,  they  brought  with  them  from  New 
York  state.  Mrs.  Adams  did  nothing  but  drive  out  and  call 
on  the  sick  and  the  strangers  in  the  city,  or  take  some  one 
out  for  a  ride,  who  had  no  horse. 

There  is  a  society  in  Phoenix  known  as  the  Illinois  So 
ciety.  It  consists  of  three  hundred  members.  They  own  a 
picnic  ground,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city.  They  held  a 


61 

picnic  on  February  12,  in  honor  of  Lincoln's  birthday.  We 
were  invited.  A  fine  dinner.  The  band  was  composed  of  fine 
players,  the  boys  from  the  Indian  school.  There  were  some 
fine  recitations,  speeches,  etc.,  etc.  Professor  Gowan  of  the 
Indian  school  was  one  of  the  speakers,  Ex-Governor  Hamil 
ton,  of  Illinois,  is  president  of  the  society.  Professor  Gowan 
told  of  the  grand  prairie  state,  but  speaking  of  the  climate,  said 
that  it  was  a  cold  place,  but  Arizona  was  all  that  Illinois 
was  and  much  more.  Illinois  has  mines  of  lead  and  coal,  but 
Arizona  has  her  beds  of  gold  and  silver.  Professor  Gowan 
said  there  was  only  one  objection  to  Phoenix,  that  the  winters 
were  all  right  but  the  summers  were  hotter  than  h — .  A  story  is 
told  of  a  man  who  left  Phoenix  for  the  hotter  place,  but  when 
he  got  there,  he  came  back  for  his  overcoat. 

One  day  Storey  met  a  man,  whom  he  thought  just  from 
the  Chilkoot  Pass,  from  his  fur  cap  and  coat,  well  he  had 
to  take  it  off,  the  next  morning  he  had  on  a  straw  hat.  I  saw 
many  children  on  February  5,  1898,  dressed  in  thin  white 
dresses,  with  bare  arms,  carrying  parasols,  lo,  the  barefoot 
and  bearheaded  Indians,  walking  about  over  the  town. 
One  afternoon  we  had  been  out  calling,  on  coming  home 
we  saw  two  squaws,  with  ollas  to  sell,  one  of  the  squaws 
had  a  pappoose  strapped  to  her  back.  Storey  had  seen  the 
same  two  the  day  before,  they  were  making  money  by  showing 
the  pappoose,  at  five  cents  a  sight.  I  asked  them  if  I  took  two 
ollas  and  paid  them  ten  cents,  would  they  let  me  the  pappoose. 
They  said,  "yah,  yah."  After  I  had  paid  them  and  took  the 
ollas,  they  refused  to  let  me  see  the  pappoose.  I  was  a  little 
riled.  Just  then  a  young  man  came  along  with  a  kodak,  and 
tried  to  take  their  pictures.  The  Indians  don't  like  kodaks, 
they  dislike  to  have  their  pictures  taken.  Some  of  them  think 
the  kodak,  a  gun,  and  they  will  run  as  fast  as  they  can.  One 


day,  I  was  on  the  street,  and  had  stopped  at  the  candy  stall, 
which  was  kept  by  a  gentleman,  who  lived  in  part  of  the 
same  house  that  we  did.  There  was  standing  by  the  tallest 
Indian  I  had  met.  This  Indian's  name  was  Big  Crow.  His 
hair  had  never  been  cut,  so  I  was  told.  It  was  very  heavy, 
very  black  and  below  his  knees.  I  got  the  gentleman  who  kept 
the  candy  stand  to  ask  him  if  he  would  let  me  have  a  lock  of 
his  hair  for  ten  cents.  He  said  no.  White  woman  no  business 
with  his  hair,  that  not  right.  I  then  made  up  my  mind  I  was 
asking  considerable  and  bent  my  steps  onward  into  the  park 
where  stood  a  fine  Tally  Ho.  The  band  was  playing  sweet 
music. 

The  Tally  Ho  is  a  high-seated  open  buggy,  holding  six 
or  eight  persons,  beside  the  driver.  It  is  drawn  by  four  or  six 
fine  horses,  that  dance  to  the  music  that  accompanies  it.  It 
is  some  kind  of  horn,  that  blows,  when  you  start  and  when 
you  stop,  then  at  intervals  as  you  ride  about.  The  drives  are 
elegant  at  Phoenix,  and  the  horses  very  fine.  The  carriages 
are  very  stylish,  the  ladies  better  dressed  than  their  eastern 
sisters.  I  saw  hats  in  the  millinery  stores,  many  of  them 
priced  at  twenty-five  dollars.  There  are  many  curious  things 
for  sale.  The  most  beautiful  drawn  \vork  by  the  Mexican 
women.  The  blankets  made  by  the  Apache  Indians,  some  of 
them  are  worth  fifty  dollars  apiece,  then  the  little  trinkets, 
opals,  onyx,  ostrich  eggs,  orangewood,  ironwood,  and  numer 
ous  things.  The  famous  umbrella  tree  and  pepper  tree  are 
the  most  important  shade  trees.  The  cowboy  is  one  of  the 
great  features  of  the  place.  Storey  was  down  town  one  day,  a 
funeral  procession  was  passing,  a  street  sprinkler  came  along. 
The  team  on  the  sprinkler  was  large  and  strong  and  the  horses 
became  frightened  and  started  to  run,  the  man  on  the  sprink 
ler  could  not  manage  them,  when  he  bore  down  on  the  sprink- 


63 

ler,  with  his  feet  the  sprinkler  threw  the  water.  The  horses 
were  running  into  the  procession,  when  a  cowboy  standing 
by  his  horse,  took  in  the  situation.  He  mounted  at  once,  run 
his  Mustang  alongside  the  frightened  horse,  caught  the  horse 
by  the  nose  with  his  hand,  stuck  his  fingers  into  the  horse's  nos 
trils,  thus  choking  off  his  wind,  stopping  the  runaways. 

I  visited  the  capital  grounds,  these  grounds  are  set  with 
trees,  plants,  everything  in  readiness  for  the  buildings. 

We  visited  Orangewood  a  few  miles  north  of  Phoenix. 
Saw  almond  trees  white  with  bloom.  And  many  oranges  on 
the  trees.  This  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  drives  from 
the  city.  "A  story  of  the  mines,"  was  told  us  in  Phoenix,  by 
different  ones  who  had  heard  the  man  lecture,  who  was  shut 
in  the  mine.  The  story  is  a  true  one  and  is  as  follows : 

It  was  out  in  the  Big  Bug  district.  The  mines  were  pay 
ing  well,  when  one  of  their  best  mines  were  deemed  unsafe. 
For  several  mornings,  the  men  on  entering  the  mine  heard  low 
grumbling  sounds.  They  seemed  like  the  sound  of  an  earth 
quake  in  the  distance.  They  could  not  tell  from  whence  these 
noises  came.  Some  thought  a  wild  animal  had  gone  down  the 
shaft.  No  that  could  not  be.  Others  said  they  feared  volcanic 
combustion  and  thought  the  mine  unsafe.  The  boss  decided 
to  shut  down  the  mine  until  they  found  out  what  the  matter 
was. 

They  sent  to  Denver  for  a  mining  expert  to  ascertain  the 
difficulty.  The  expert  from  Denver  was  offered  one  thousand 
dollars  to  test  the  mine  as  it  was  one  of  the  richest  in  lead. 
The  man  came  from  Denver.  He  was  told  the  condition  of  the 
mine.  He  laughed  at  their  fears.  Took  his  dinner,  several 
candles,  matches,  and  went  into  the  mine,  he  also  took  his 
pick  to  pass  time  with.  He  went  into  the  mine  at  8  a.  m. 
The  miners  went  to  another  mine  near  by.  They  were  not 


64 

down  the  shaft,  when  a  tremendous  explosion  occurred.  They 
ran  to  the  mouth  of  the  shaft  where  the  man  had  gone  down. 
To  their  horror  and  amazement  the  mouth  of  the  shaft  was 
closed,  the  mine  being  shut  in  from  the  outer  world  with  their 
friend  Thompson  buried  alive  or  killed  they  knew  not  what. 
They  rushed  to  the  different  shafts.  All  the  miners  were  gath 
ered  together  and  decided  to  find  the  man  if  possible.  There 
was  an  air-hole  on  another  side  of  the  mine,  where  they  de 
cided  to  dig,  two  hundred  men  began  at  once.  This  place 
where  they  begun  digging  was  where  they  had  thought  to  open 
a  new  shaft.  These  men  were  not  digging  for  gold,  they 
were  digging  for  life.  They  dug  all  day,  all  night,  put  on  as 
many  fast  diggers  as  possible,  they  blasted  rock,  never  inform 
ing  the  man's  family  at  Denver,  what  happened.  On  the  fifth 
they  e^ot  a  hole  drilled  through  to  where  they  thought  was 
the  main  room  of  the  mine,  but  whether  the  man  was  there, 
or  in  some  other  part  of  the  mine,  or  killed  by  falling  debris, 
remained  to  them  a  mystery.  They  climbed  to  the  hole  they 
had  made  and  cried  halloo.  Then  listening  intently  for  some 
minutes  scarcely  expecting  to  hear  anything,  when  they  heard 
faint  sounds  of  a  pick  down  deep  in  the  mine.  They  took 
courage  and  worked  on  harder  than  before.  On  the  seventh 
day  they  could  not  hear  the  faint  pick,  they  were  afraid  he 
had  smothered,  but  soon  again  they  heard  the  pick.  They 
cried  halloo,  and  halloo  was  returned.  They  then  cried 
dig.  We  are  digging  you  out.  On  the  eighth  day  they  called 
to  him.  Are  you  alive?  Can  you  hold  out  a  little  longer? 
They  let  down  a  candle,  matches,  water.  Man  cried  out  all 
right.  They  let  down  a  large  pail,  or  ore  bucket.  The  bucket 
contained  a  note  telling  him  to  get  into  it  and  they  would  draw 
him  out.  The  men  wept  with  him  for  joy.  He  was  kept  for 
several  days  in  a  partially  darkened  room,  allowed  only  a 


65 

small  amount  of  food  at  a  time.    He  was  thin  and  pale,  having 
lost  fifty-six  pounds  in  weight. 

A  purse  of  two  thousand  dollars  was  made  up  for  this 
man  at  Phoenix  and  one  thousand  at  Prescott.  He  lectured 
at  both  places.  His  wife  came  from  Denver  and  he  obtained 
enough  money  to  live  in  fine  style.  A  drive  to  Scotdale,  a 
little  valley  near  the  head  of  the  canal.  The  Verde  river  comes 
from  the  mountains,  and  empties  into  Salt  river.  The  amount 
of  water  power  for  irrigation  purposes,  for  southern  Arizona 
is  mainly  derived  from  the  snowfall  of  northern  Arizona.  The 
water  supply  is  limited  in  my  estimation.  The  Salt  river  alone 
amounts  to  nothing  without  the  Verde,  which  is  only  fed 
by  rain  and  snow  from  the  mountains. 

Scotdale  has  a  fine  climate.  The  village  consists  mostly 
of  tents.  Oranges  ripe  on  trees  in  February.  Almond  trees 
white  with  bloom.  We  spent  a  pleasant  day,  took  dinner 
with  Chaplain  Scott  the  owner  of  the  village.  He  had  es 
tablished  a  health  resort  on  his  farm.  The  tents  were  inhabited 
by  people  from  distant  homes  in  different  parts  of  the  east. 
Chaplain  Scott  was  in  charge  of  the  first  Baptist  mission  in 
Arizona.  He  is  now  in  charge  of  the  Prescott  church.  They 
tried  very  hard  to  have  us  locate  at  Scotdale.  This  place 
seemed  to  be  a  great  resort  for  those  who  had  weak  lungs. 
I  did  not  care  to  locate  out  there.  We  met  a  man  and  his 
wife,  Alex  Hepperly  by  name.  Their  home  was  Ellsworth, 
Kansas.  Mrs.  Hepperly  was  a  Miss  Mix  from  Toulon,  Illi 
nois.  I  was  surprised  enough  to  become  a  friend  to  one  who  had 
been  brought  only  ten  miles  from  me.  We  visited  the  os 
trich  farm  together  in  company  with  Mrs.  Adams.  These 
ostriches  were  not  such  a  sight  for  me  as  for  some  people, 
as  I  had  seen  them  in  a  body  at  the  World's  Fair,  and  on  a 
farm  in  California.  Their  habits  are  rather  peculiar.  They 


66 

are  very  strong.  They  run  as  fast  as  a  horse.  They  are  very 
awkward  and  seem  to  be  the  most  silly  and  indifferent  creature 
one  ever  sees.  The  head  is  very  small.  The  egg  weighs 
about  three  pounds  or  is  equal  to  two  dozen  hen's  eggs.  The 
young,  when  hatched  are  about  the  size  of  common  chickens 
and  are  able  to  follow  the  old  ones  anywhere.  Sometimes 
eggs  are  left  covered  with  sand  and  hatched  by  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  in  other  cases  the  male  does  his  share  of  the  sitting. 
The  eggshell  is  very  thick  and  tough.  They  are  used  by  na 
tives  of  Africa  as  drinking  cups.  The  stroke  of  the  ostrich 
with  its  feet  is  powerful.  It  can  instantly  knock  a  man  down. 
There  was  a  man  killed  at  the  farm',  at  Phoenix  only  a  few 
months  before  we  were  there.  The  long  white  plumes  are 
very  elegant,  some  in  beautiful  brown,  some  jet  black;  as  we 
were  returning  to  Phoenix  from  the  ostrich  farm,  we  were 
passing  a  small  depot.  There  stood  a  goat  on  the  platform. 
A  dog  started  after  it,  the  goat  ran  after  the  dog.  The  goat 
ran  off  the  platform  by  running  down  the  steps,  the  dog  got 
past  where  the  steps  were,  the  goat  thought  to  go  on  after  the 
dog.  The  platform  was  very  high,  higher  than  the  goat 
thought,  off  he  went  head  first  and  broke  his  neck. 

We  took  many  walks  and  rides  in  and  around  the  city, 
and  I  was  getting  very  tired  of  the  heat  and  dust.  I  could  not 
think  of  staying  in  the  house  in  the  afternoon.  The  heat  was 
unbearable  and  I  finally  coaxed  Storey  to  go  on  north,  on  our 
homeward  journey.  My  cousin,  Mr.  Tom  'Sanders  lived  at 
Hillside,  but  our  first  stop  was  at  Congress  Station.  I  was 
anxious  to  see  a  real  gold  mine,  see  the  men  at  work  in  roast 
ing,  smelting  and  refining  gold.  We  took  tea  with  a  friend, 
Mrs.  J.  F.  El  well,  a  clear  little  Baptist  woman  in  south  part 
of  Phoenix.  We  had  an  elegant  supper  and  she  accompanied 
us  to  the  train.  It  was  a  night  train,  that  we  had  to  take  as 


67 

usual,  being  9  130  when  we  left  Phoenix.  This  was  March  8r 
1898.  It  was  12  o'clock  when  we  arrived  at  Congress  Station. 
We  found  a  hotel  near  by.  This  was  nearly  the  only  house 
in  the  place.  The  landlord  gave  us  a  nice  clean  room  and  a 
good  bed  and  in  the  morning  the  gold  fever  was  rising.  I 
ate  a  good  breakfast,  knowing  that  would  help  me  for  the 
day.  We  informed  the  landlord,  that  he  should  drive  us  out 
to  Congress  Mines,  about  three  miles  distant  to  the  north 
west.  We  decided  to  spend  the  day  at  the  mines  and  that 
they  should  come  for  us  before  supper.  It  was  a  fine  drive,  as 
we  passed  along  we  saw  a  mine  here,  and  there.  One  that  at 
tracted  my  attention  was  the  "Lost  Mine"  so  named  because 
very  rich  ore  being  found  here  led  men  to  put  in  machinery, 
sink  a  shaft,  when  all  at  once  the  rock  became  perfectly  value 
less.  Not  a  cent  in  it.  Men  lost  thousands  of  dollars  in  it. 
Mines  like  this  are  known  as  spotted  mines,  they  promise 
well,  but  do  not  "pan  out,"  as  the  saying  is.  I  can  hardly  de 
scribe  the  great  "Congress  Mines."  Shaft  No.  i  was  thirteen 
hundred  feet  deep;  No.  2  was  seventeen  hundred  feet  deep. 
Storey  went  down  to  first  landing  in  shaft  No.  2  to  a  dis 
tance  of  five  hundred  feet.  I  refused  to  go.  It  seemed  there 
was  no  danger.  I  saw  two  hundred  men  come  out  of  the 
shaft  on  the  trolley  car,  eat  their  dinner  and  go  back  in  the 
dungeon,  with  their  candles  and  tools.  One  miner  was  honest 
enough  to  tell  me,  that  I  was  right,  that  there  was  danger  and 
that  "fools  would  venture  where  angels  dare  to  tread."  That 
only  a  month  before  a  man  and  his  wife,  who  were  visiting 
the  mines,  were  both  killed  by  the  trolley  car  jumping  the 
track,  a  thing  not  often  happening,  but  liable  to  at  any  time. 
They  were  thrown  from  the  car  and  crushed  between  the 
car  and  the  walls  of  the  mine.  Their  home  was  in  Pennsyl 
vania.  I  always  try  to  keep  out  of  danger.  The  machinery 


68 

at  the  mines  for  pounding,  roasting  and  refining  the  gold  is 
wonderful.  Plenty  of  hard  work  to  it  all.  There  is  a  fascina 
tion  about  the  work,  which  is  a  great  help  to  weary  worker. 
The  engines  and  battering  rams  were  powerful ;  and  the  noise 
they  made.  Not  the  loudest  word  could  be  heard.  The  red 
hot  fires  for  the  roasting  of  the  ore,  then  the  great  vats  filled 
to  the  brim  with  poison  fluid,  with  which  to  cleanse  the  gold 
by  what  is  known  as  the  "Sinide  Process."  The  best  ore  is 
prepared  in  this  way  no  need  to  be  sent  away  to  the  smelters. 
There  is  no  room  at  the  mines  for  smelters.  The  poorest  ore  is 
sent  to  either  San-Antonio,  Texas,  or  San  Diego,  California, 
or  Denver,  where  are  great  smelters  to  finish  the  work  begun 
by  the  miner.  Many  of  the  miners  are  foreigners,  some  Mex 
icans.  It  requires  almost  a  fortune  to  operate  a  "Gold  Mine." 
One  single  machine  costing  four  thousand  dollars.  The  min 
ers  wages  are  three  dollars  per  day. 

If  I  should  attempt  to  describe  the  work  in  the  "Sinide 
Process"  alone,  I  should  have  to  employ  a  chemist  for  weeks. 
The  men  who  work  at  these  places  are  experts  in  the  busi 
ness  even  the  Assayer  must  know  his  business  so  well,  that 
he  can  tell  what  a  single  grain  of  gold  is  worth.  I  shall  never 
forget  my  day  at  the  mines,  clambering,  walking,  talking. 
How  those  miners  eyed  me.  Some  of  them  would  venture 
to  give  me  a  piece  of  ore  out  of  the  specimen  box.  Some 
would  tell  me  to  help  myself  to  what  I  wanted.  I  was  not  at 
all  bashful.  I  had  Storey's  pockets  filled  with  the  precious 
ores  until  he  cried  out,  that  he  could  stand  it  no  longer.  I 
could  scarcely  walk  a  step,  but  he  dragged  me  on  until  we 
reached  a  mining  store.  In  front  of  the  store  was  a  wide 
porch,  to  shade  one's  eyes  from  the  glare  of  the  sun.  On 
this  porch  were  benches  for  the  benefit  of  loungers  or  those 
waiting  for  the  stage.  I  never  took  to  a  bench  except  a  wash- 


69 

bench,  but  I  was  glad  to  take  to  one  there.  It  was  near  5  p.  m., 
and  while  we  were  there  waiting  for  the  stage,  we  took  in  the 
sights,  of  this  great  mining  town.  We  felt  quite  secure,  but 
hearing  that  a  woman  was  robbed  of  two  thousand  dollars,  at  the 
mines  only  a  few  days  before.  When  we  arrived  at  the  hotel 
we  were  tired,  hungry  and  dirty.  We  intended  to  go  on  at 
1 1  130  p.  m.,  to  Hillside.  We  ate  a  big  supper,  as  we  had  only 
a  lunch  for  dinner.  We  only  paid  one  dollar  per  meal  and  the 
same  for  a  bed  as  if  we  had  taken  it  at  6  p.  m.,  instead  of  12 
p.  m.  We  decided  to  rest  in  a  cozy  little  parlor  until  train 
time  rather  than  pay  for  a  bed  for  all  night.  The  thought  of 
sitting  up  brought  to  memory  many  episodes  of  my  courting 
days.  When  I,  was  accompanied  to  a  party  by  my  friend, 
whom  I  shall  call  Frank.  He  happened  to  wear  his  father's 
coat  in  stead  of  his  own,  and  at  the  party  some  other  fellow 
wore  off  the  old  gentleman's  coat,  what  a  time  to  get  the 
coat  back.  I  well  remember  the  old  gentleman's  wrath.  "Now 
you  have  got  to  git  that  coat,  for  I'm  bound  to  have  my  coat," 
said  Uncle  John.  "I'll  never  let  you  wear  a  garment  of  mine 
again,  had  it  been  my  old  breeches  you  changed,  I  should  not 
care  a  straw,  but  that  splinter  new  overcoat.  It  makes  my 
hair  rise  on  my  head.  Take  a  horse  and  go  right  along  and 
get  that  coat."  He  got  his  coat,  some  twenty  years  ago,  has 
married  Frank's  mother-in-law  since  that  and  is  still  a  happy 
man.  I  think  I  shall  go  and  see  him  one  of  these  days.  Storey 
was  taking  a  nap  on  the  sofa,  while  I  was  thus  musing.  I  ex 
amined  the  paintings  and  books,  fancy  work,  etc.  I  got  our 
things  ready.  It  seemed  the  train  would  never  come,  and  the 
question  in  my  mind  was,  what  would  our  reception  be  in  the 
next  stopping  place.  It  was  onl^  fifty  miles  farther  north,  and 
we  would  soon  arrive  there.  We  had  written  my  second 
cousin's  husband  when  we  would  arrive  there,  but  whether 


70 

he  would  be  there  I  was  not  able  to  say.  I  knew  the  place  was 
small  and  I  wondered  if  there  was  a  hotel  there.  The  train 
stopped.  Off  we  got.  No  one  left  the  train  but  us.  Our  two 
huge  trunks  were  put  off.  There  was  no  depot  or  ticket- 
office.  Our  trunks  lay  on  the  platform.  There  was  no  one  to 
meet  us.  The  only  person  on  the  platform  was  an  old  man 
with  white  hair,  and  wrinkled  face,  who  carried  a  lantern.  I 
hated  to  see  that  train  go  on.  I  then  asked  the  old  man  to 
wait  a  few  minutes.  I  inquired  if  he  knew  Mr.  Sanders.  He 
did.  He  was  the  postmaster  of  the  place.  He  seemed  to  be 
master  of  everything  else  from  appearance.  He  met  the  train 
to  get  the  mail.  He  told  us  that  Mr.  Sanders  had  been  to 
meet  the  train  on  the  evening  before  and  he  thought  they  were 
coming  again.  I  asked  for  a  hotel.  There  was  none.  I  then 
asked  where  there  was  a  private  residence.  There  was  none. 
He  then  informed  us  that  no  one  lived  there  but  him,  even  his 
wife  was  not  at  home.  He  then  said  if  Mr.  Sanders  does  not 
come  for  you,  that  we  could  stay  with  him  till  morning,  that 
he  had  a  bed  that  was  at  our  disposal,  that  he  could  sleep  upon 
a  couch,  but  if  we  could  put  up  with  such  acommodations,  that 
we  were  very  welcome.  I  nudged  Storey.  I  thought  accommo 
dation  a  rare  thing  and  made  up  my  mind  to  make  the  best  of 
it,  if  there  was  any  best  to  it.  He  showed  us  the  room  and 
bed.  The  house  was  a  board  shanty.  He  had  a  kitchen,  a 
dining  room  and  the  little  room.  The  little  room  was  just 
large  enough  for  a  small  bed,  room  at  foot  for  a  washstand, 
by  side  of  bed  was  just  room  to  walk,  a  very  small  table.  He 
had  a  small  lamp,  on  the  table  a  box  of  matches,  a  small  clock, 
a  comb.  I  examined  the  bed.  It  was  what  I  call  a  one-hoss 
bed,  being  entirely  too  narrow  for  two,  and  besides  I  never 
would  get  into  a  bed  under  sich  circumstances,  as  I  am  very 
particular  about  my  sleeping  apartments.  I  opened  my  'huge 


71 

telescope,  took  out  a  pair  of  fine  wool  blankets^  a  new  com 
fortable,  a  pillow,  I  made  up  the  bed  to  the  best  advantage, 
coaxed  Storey  to  get  into  it,  while  I  seated  myself  on  a  low 
camp-chair,  wondering  what  was  next  in  store  for  me.  He 
had  told  us  Mr.  Sanders  lived  three  miles  away  that  they  were 
liable  to  come  for  us,  when  they  heard  the  train  whistle  for 
Hillside.  I  made  up  my  mind  that  I  did  not  care  whether  they 
came  for  us  that  night  or  not.  Storey  was  asleep,  I  could  not 
sleep  anywhere  the  rest  of  the  night.  Hillside  had  nothing 
in  it  but  climate,  and  that  one  old  man  who  kept  a  few  chickens, 
It  is  a  better  climate  tjian  either  Prescott  or  Phoenix.  I  made 
up  my  mind  I  did  not  want  to  eat  nor  sleep  in  that  place. 
Storey  was  sleeping  soundly  when  a  sharp  halloo  was  heard. 
I  opened  the  door  which  led  into  the  dining  hall.  By  the  faint 
light  of  an  old  lantern  I  discovered  the  old  man  fast  asleep. 
I  thought  I  knew  the  voice  outside.  I  peeped  out  the  window, 
and  saw  by  the  light  of  the  moon  a  two  horse  team,  I  opened 
the  door  a  little  way  and  said  who  is  there.  The  reply  was, 
"Ned  Sanders."  I  told  him  all  right,  that  we  would  be  out 
there  as  soon  as  possible.  After  much  effort,  I  succeeded  in 
getting  Storey  awake.  He  asked  what  I  wanted,  I  told  him 
to  jump  up  quick,  to  go  to  Sanders'  ranch.  He  finally  got 
awakened  and  by  this  time  the  old  man  was  up  with  his  lantern 
ready  to  lend  a  helping  hand.  I  had  the  telescope  packed  by 
the  time  Storey  was  dressed,  they  loaded  our  trunks  and  we 
were  soon  on  our  way  to  the  Sanders'  home.  It  was  a  beau 
tiful  moonlight  night  and  for  March  6,  was  fine  weather.  We 
found  another  huge  fire-place.  Our  trunks  were  unloaded. 
We  soon  repaired  to  bed.  I  was  beginning  to  think  I  had  to 
live  without  sleep,  but  as  it  was  nearly  morning,  I  only  got  a 
short  nap.  We  stayed  at  the  Sanders'  ranch  near  two  weeks. 
Mr.  Sanders  and  his  son  Ned  were  the  house-keepers.  So  a 


.     72 

woman  was  welcomed.  It  was  a  quiet  place,  after  my  nerves 
had  been  so  taxed.  I  did  most  of  the  cooking  while  there, 
as  I  had  nothing  else  to  do.  An  Indian  family  lived  near. 
They  came  to  Mr.  Sanders'  well  for  water.  They 
belonged  to  the  Walapai  tribe.  They  counted  for  me 
sometimes.  Their  hut  was  about  a  hundred  yards  away. 
They  daub  their  hair  full  of  mud,  or  wet  clay  to  make  it  all 
stand  up  straight.  They  were  frightful  looking  creatures. 
They  have  one  advantage,  the  mud  kills  the  lice.  After  the 
mud  has  been  left  in  several  days,  then  they  wash  it  all  out. 
Hillside  was  the  postoffice  of  my  second  cousin  Robert  Miller, 
although  he  lived  twenty  miles  away.  The  name  of  his  ranch 
was  Happy  Camp. 

When  we  wanted  to  go  on  to  Skull  Valley,  Ned  Sanders 
drove  us  there.  It  was  distant  twenty  miles.  We  started  at 
2  p.  m.,  arrived  there  at  4 130  p.  m.  The  scenery  was  beautiful 
but  varied.  We  passed  through  what  is  known  as  Hell's  Half 
Acre.  Such  a  rough  stony  piece  of  ground  I  never  saw.  The 
rocks  are  spotted.  The  colors  were  black,  white,  red.  I 
was  afraid  to  ride  over  part  of  the  road.  While  I  was  at 
Hillside  I  went  out  prospecting  for  gold.  There  were  four 
of  us.  We  took  a  pick  and  pan  went  to  a  creek,  dug  some 
dirt  and  washed  it.  I  got  some  fine  gold  dust,  but  wrapping 
it  in  a  paper,  I  lost  it  out  on  the  way  home  from  Arizona. 
While  we  were  out  we  visited  two  Indian  huts.  Hunted  moss 
agates  and  Indian  arrows.  On  the  way  from  Hillside  to  Skull 
Valley,  I  saw  the  famous  road-runner  or  rattlesnake  killer. 
The  bird  is  very  little  larger  than  a  quail.  It  runs  along  the 
road  ahead  of  a  wagon  for  miles.  It  resembles  the  quail  being 
black  and  white.  I  found  numerous  song  birds  in  Arizona. 
At  Skull  Valley  I  saw  cousin  J.  L.  Miller,  husking  corn  March  ' 
10.  No  rain  in  the  winter  to  spoil  it. 


78 

Arizona  is  the  lazy  man's  country.  I  visited  my  cousin 
Rolla  Miller's  grave,  at  Skull  Valley.  The  headstone 
is  in  sight  of  the  depot.  We  decided,  when  we 
started  to  Prescott  to  board  a  freight  train,  and  go 
up  in  day  time,  as  much  of  the  beautiful  scenery 
had  been  passed  by  us  in  the  night.  It  was  evident  the  train 
men  were  not  accustomed  to  having  ladies  on  their  trains  as 
they  invited  us  seats  in  the  top  of  the  caboose,  where  we  had 
a  grand  view.  They  pointed  out  to  us  many  places  of  inter 
est  on  the  route,  and  the  engineering  of  a  railroad  in  Arizona 
is  far  ahead  of  anything  we  ever  saw  or  heard  of.  It  seemed 
a  winding  around  and  over  the  mountains,  gorges,  valleys. 
Words  cannot  explain  the  wonderful  beauties  which  we  be 
held,  with  which  God  has  seen  fit  to  beautify  this  world  of  His. 
The  conductor  took  our  tickets.  He  was  puzzled.  They  were 
fine  tickets,  we  could  get  off  the  train  anywhere  and  stay  as  long 
as  we  pleased,  get  on  anywhere.  Our  tickets  were  good  for 
nine  months.  Why  our  tickets  puzzled  the  conductor,  was, 
we  had  left  the  train  at  Hillside,  and  had  come  by  team  to 
Skull  Valley,  the  ticket  not  being  used.  We  explained  to 
him,  as  best  we  could,  at  last  I  told  him,  we  cared  nothing 
about  the  ticket,  we  simply  waiited  to  ride  to  Prescott  on  his 
train,  as  it  was  an  uphill  business  even  on  a  train,  there  being 
no  other  way  to  go  except  on  foot.  I  never  saw  such  scenery 
in  my  life.  The  conductor  showed  us  one  place  where  it  was 
an  impossibility  to  bed  the  road.  There  was  no  way  to  wind 
the  curve.  It  puzzled  the  expert  Then  a  young 
Swede  boy  who  was  working  in  the  bed  rock  with  a 
pick,  said  he  knew  how  it  could  be  done.  The  men  all  laughed 
heartily.  The  expert  said,  "Young  man,  go  on  and  tell  me 
how  to  do  it."  He  then  told  them  to  run  around  the  moun 
tain  and  then  cross  the  track  they  had  made  and  there  it  was. 


74 

Said  he  had  it  all  planned  in  his  mind.  The  expert  said  "His 
idea  is  correct."  It  was  done.  The  boy  got  $1,000  for  his 
idea.  We  arrived  at  Prescott  at  6  p.  m.  We  remained  at  Pres- 
cott  three  weeks.  Storey  had  taken  a  severe  cold  and  was 
threatened  with  mountain  fever.  The  last  night  we  were  in 
Prescott  we  remained  at  a  hotel  near  the  depot.  Storey  was 
almost  too  sick  to  start  home.  But  fearing  he  might  get  worse, 
I  thought  it  wise  to  start.  We  had  intended  to  stop  off  at  Kan 
sas  City,  a  few  days  as  I  had  some  distant  relatives  there 
whom  I  had  not  met  for  years,  but  Storey  was  sick  the  whole 
route  home.  He  refused  to  eat,  poor  man,  he  could  not  sleep. 
His  first  meal  after  we  left  Prescott  was  at  Kansas  City.  We 
were  fast  approaching  home  and  friends.  We  arrived  home 
April  6,  after  an  absence  of  four  months.  While  away  from 
home  I  learned  a  great  deal  about  mines,  mining,  and  found 
out  that  no  mining  district  on  the  American  Continent  offers 
today  more  genuine  opportunities  for  investment  in  mining 
than  Yavapai  county,  Arizona.  Its  mountains  are  -  rich  in 
gold,  silver,  copper,  onyx,  lead  and  wood.  Convenience  to 
other  states  or  territories  by  rail  is  unsurpassed.  Its  developed 
mines  of  gold  and  copper  are  the  richest  in  the  world,  and 
gives  employment  to  thousands  of  men.  The  climate  is  won 
derfully  dry  and  the  temperature  delightful.  When  Horace 
Greely  told  the  young  man  to  go  west,  he  meant  for  him  to 
go  to  Yavapai  county.  Since  1892,  three  tributary  railroads 
have  been  constructed.  One  is  from  Jerome  Junction  to  Je 
rome,  a  distance  of  twenty-six  miles  to  where  is  located  the 
machinery  of  the  United  Verde  Copper  Company,  the  mine 
is  at  Jerome.  The  richest  vein  in  the  world.  Yavapai  county 
is  gridironed  by  four  principal  ranges  of  mountains,  extend 
ing  north  and  south,  and  by  several  smaller  ranges.  The 
mountains  are,  the  Sierra  Prietia,  the  Verde,  of  which  the 


75 

Black  Hills  are  an  extension,  the  Bradshaws  and  Silver  Moun 
tains  and  the  Santa  M'aria.  The  most  important  are  Agua 
Fria,  Date  creek,  Weaver  and  Kendrick.  Some  of  the  peaks 
rise  10000  feet  but  the  average  is  5000  above  the  sea  level. 
The  drainage  of  the  whole  region  is  toward  the  Gila  and  Colo 
rado  rivers.  Average  rainfall  16.5  inches.  The  valleys  are 
watered.  This  is  a  boon  to  cattle  men.  The  area  of  Yavapai 
county  is  8214  square  miles.  It  is  nearly  1000  square  miles 
larger  than  the  state  of  New  Jersey.  Population  32,000.  Of 
this  population  about  5000  possess  the  wealth  which  amounts 
to  many  millions  annually.  To  treat  the  ores  from  the  mines 
thirty-two  stamp  mills  with  four  hundred  stamps  each  work 
day  and  night.  It  is  a  noteworthy  fact  that  in  no  mine  in  this 
county,  in  which  a  depth  of  three  hundred  feet,  has  been 
reached,  has  the  result  failed  of  being  a  paying  mine.  This 
has  been  the  case  with  the  following  mines,  United  Verde, 
Congress,  Crown  King,  Hillside,  Little  Jessie,  Jersey  Lily  and 
McCabe  all  of  National  fame,  only  the  Verde,  Congress, 
Crown  King  are  below  seven  hundred  feet. 

Much  of  this  county  has  never  been  mined.  In  some 
places  a  few  pans  of  earth  have  been  saved.  Many  places  no 
machinery  has  been  put  in.  I  secured  my  knowledge  of  mines 
in  part  from  Professor  J.  F.  Blandy,  secretary  of  the  Prescott 
Mining  Exchange.  He  has  a  fine  office  in  Prescott.  You  can 
see  ore  from  any  mines.  He  gave  me  a  fine  lot  of  speci 
mens.  I  have  some  that  will  assay  $1500  to  a  ton.  Names 
of  mines,  Bradshaw  Mountains,  Star,  Old  Reliable,  Del  Pasco, 
War  Eagle,  Conger  Mohawk,  Black  Warrior,  Silver  Prince 
and  Tiger.  In  the  Hasayampa  District,  Joe  Don,  Sterling,  Sun 
Dance,  Crook,  Blair  and  Grub.  All  the  hills  and  valleys  from 
Sacramento,  California,  down  to  Salt  river  are  a  network  of 
veins  of  ore  and  contain  vast  mineral  wealth. 


76 


THE  MOUNTAIN  HUNTER. 


When  I  turned  my  horse's  head  from  Pikes  Peak,  I  quite 
regretted  the  abandonment  of  my  mountain  life,  solitary  as  it 
was,  I  more  than  once  thought  of  taking  the  trail  to  the  Salado 
Valley,  where  I  enjoyed  such  good  sport.  A  citizen  of  the 
world,  I  never  found  any  difficulty  in  investing  my  resting 
place,  wherever  it  might  be,  with  the  attributes  of  home;  al 
though  liable  to  an  accusation  of  barbarism,  I  must  confess 
that  the  happiest  moments  of  my  life,  I  have  spent  in  the 
wilderness  of  the  great  west.  With  no  friend  near  me  more 
faithful  than  my  rifle,  and  no  companion  more  sociable  than 
my  horse,  or  the  wolf,  which  often  serenaded  me.  With  a 
supply  of  pine  logs  for  my  fire,  and  its  cheerful  blaze  stream 
ing  far  up  into  the  sky,  illuminating  a  valley  far  and  near, 
I  would  sit  cross-legged  enjoying  the  warmth,  with  pipe  in 
mouth,  building  my  castles  in  the  vapory  smoke  as  it  curled 
upward.  Scarcely  did  I  ever  wish  to  change  such  freedom 
for  all  the  luxuries  of  civilized  life.  A  hunter's  camp  in  the 
Rock  Mountains  is  a  picture.  The  fire  on  a  wintry  night  does 
burn  so  bright,  and  the  grizzly  bear,  ferocious  monster,  with 
his  great  strength  to  take  him  through  the  thicket. 

On  one  of  the  streams  flowing  from  the  Black  Hills,  a 
companion  and  I  were  setting  traps,  in  passing  through  a 
cherry  thicket,  we  espied  a  large  grizzly,  quietly  turning  up 
the  turf  with  his  nose,  searching  for  pignuts,  I  called  my 
companion,  we  crept  cautiously  to  the  skirt  of  the  thicket, 
both  taking  steady  aim  at  the  animal,  discharging  our  rifles  at 
the  same  instant,  both  balls  taking  effect,  but  not  making  a 
mortal  wound.  The  bear  gave  a  groan  of  agony,  jumped  with 
all  four  legs  from  the  ground,  charged  at  once  upon  his  ene- 


77 

mies.  He  bolted  through  the  thicket  after  us  close  on  our 
heels.  About  a  hundred  yards  from  this  thicket  was  a  high 
bluff.  I  shouted  to  my  companion  that  this  bluff  was  our  only 
chance. 

When  Glass  was  nearly  to  the  bluff,tripped  over  a  stone  and 
fell, just  as  he  rose  the  bear  standing  on  his  feet  confronted  him. 
He  never  lost  his  presence  of  mind,  cried  to  me  to  close  up  quickly 
and  discharged  his  pistol  full  into  the  body  of  the  animal,  at  the 
same  moment  the  bear,  with  blood  streaming  from  nose  and 
mouth,  knocked  the  pistol  from  his  hand,  with  one  blow  of  his 
paw,  and  fixing  his  claws  deep  into  his  flesh,  rolled  with  him 
on  the  ground.  Glass  knowing  his  desperate  situation  took  his 
ftowie  knife  and  stuck  the  bear  several  times  in  the  belly. 

I  watched  the  desperate  fight  and  losing  my  presence  of 
mind  I  made  for  camp  and  reported  Glass  dead.  The  captain 
of  our  party  went  with  another  man.  They  found  as  they 
thought  the  bear  dead  but  the  man  still  warm.  They  left  him 
and  returning  the  next  day  found  him  not. 

Several  months  after  this  a  horseman  was  seen  approach 
ing  them,  his  face  was  full  of  scars,  to  their  surprise  it  was 
Glass.  He  had  eaten  roasted  bear's  meat,  and  it  was  wonderful 
how  he  had  recovered. 


LETTER  FROM  S.  C.  MILLER,  AN  ARIZONA  PIONEER. 


Miller's  Valley,  Feb.  21,  1900. 

Dear  Cousin : — Your  favor  of  the  i6th,  inst,  at  hand  con 
tents  noted.  Glad  indeed  to  hear  from  you.  Well  uncle  is 
eighty-one.  We  are  all  coming  to  that  old  age — you  wanted 
me  to  tell  you  something  of  my  life,  since  I  left  Peoria  county, 
Illinois.  I  forget  some  but  I  can  tell  you  all  you  will  care  to 
hear.  Brother  Jacob  and  I  left  home  April  4,  1859,  for  the 
gold  mines,  at  Pikes  Peak,  your  father,  and  others  started 
with  us.  No  doubt  you  remember  your  father's  mules  and 
covered  wagon.  When  we  got  out  into  Colorado,  we  found 
out  that  there  were  more  miners,  than  gold  at  the  Peak.  Your 
father  decided  to  go  back  to  his  home.  We  crossed  the  Missis 
sippi  river  at  Burlington,  Iowa.  Brother  Jacob  and  I  decided 
to  go  on  to  California  and  see  father,  as  he  had  been  there  for 
several  years.  I  was  just  sixteen  years  old.  ,  WTe  went  from 
Burlington  to  Council  Bluffs.  These  were  the  first  large  rivers, 
I  had  ever  seen,  then  on  to  the  Platte  river  to  Fort  Carney. 
Here  we  met  thousands  of  gold  hunters,  who  had  been  to 
Pikes  Peak.  On  their  wagons  was  printed,  "Pikes  Peak  or 
Bust,"  and  now  they  were  going  home,  below  was  printed, 
"Busted."  We  arrived  in  California,  in  the  fall  at  the  Big 
Trees,  Calaverous  county.  I  never  had  seen  such  trees.  This 
was  the  twelfth  of  September,  1859,  that  I  had  reached  Cali 
fornia.  In  the  spring  of  1860,  went  to  Virginia  City,  Nevada. 
In  the  spring  of  1861,  left  Nevada  for  Arizona,  my 
father  came  from  Oregon,  where  sister  Catherine  Bar- 
net  lived  and  accompanied  us.  We  reached  the  San 
Francisco  Mountains  in  Arizona.  There  we  stopped  and 
hunted,  killed  plenty  of  deer,  dried  all  we  could,  staid  there 


79 

six  or  eight  weeks.  There  were  seven  men  of  us  in  the  Miller 
Party,  and  nine  in  the  Walker  Party.  The  two  parties  joined 
together  at  Grapevine  Springs,  California,  May,  1861.  From 
here  we  went  into  New  Mexico.  Spent  the  winter  of  1861, 
and  1862  in  New  Mexico.  Here  I  met  Kit  Karson,  he  was 
acquainted  with  father,  as  my  mother  and  his  father  were 
own  cousins,  and  my  name  being  Samuel  Carson  Miller,  a 
namesake  of  his  father,  he  took  great  interest  in  me,  calling 
me  boy.  I  was  not  yet  twenty  years  old,  he  wanted  me  to 
enlist  for  six  months  at  least,  to  serve  United  States.  I  was 
in  nine  battles,  was  wounded  once,  got  well  and  served  out 
my  time,  was  discharged  in  May  1862.  I  then  went  with  the 
Miller- Walker  ^arty,  into  Colorado.  In  September  1862,  we 
started  with  thirty-six  men  into  Arizona,  through  the  moun 
tains,  of  New  Mexico,  and  in  May,  1863,  we  arrived  on  the 
Hasayampa  river.  In  May,  1863,  my  brother  and  I  first 
struck  gold  on  Lynx  creek,  seven  miles  from  the  Hasayampa 
river.  I  was  hunting  deer  and  saw  one,  I  was  crawling  along 
to  get  a  good  shot,  and  saw  following  the  deer,  a  pretty  spotted 
fawn,  and  saw  slipping  along  behind  them,  a  very  large  lynx. 
I  shot  the  lynx  just  in  time  to  save  the  fawn,  the  lynx  dropped 
at  the  shot  from  my  rifle,  and  the  deer  ran  off.  So  I  went  up 
to  the  lynx,  and  stooped  to  turn  him  over  and  he  jumped 
and  caught  me  by  the  wrist,  his  teeth  cutting  sharply,  and 
his  claws  scratching.  Had  it  not  been  for  my  buck-skin 
clothes,  he  would  have  wounded  me  badly,  but  soon  as  I 
could  I  shot  him  with  my  pistol  three  times  in  the  head,  before 
he  loosened  his  teeth  from  my  arm.  I  then  went  into  camp, 
without  any  meat,  except  the  lynx.  Brother  said  he  would  go 
and  kill  some  meat,  as  we  had  none  in  camp,  and  at  times 
we  got  pretty  hungry.  He  said  you  stay  in  and  doctor  your 
arm,  which  I  did,  but  the  day  was  long,  and  I  was  alone,  I 


80 

was  tired  of  sitting  around,  and  seeing  a  nice  gravel  bank 
on  the  edge  of  the  creek  which  still  holds  its  name,  of  Lynx 
creek  I  took  a  pan,  and  got  a  pan  of  gravel  and  washed  it,  and 
got  four  dollars  and  eighty-five  cents.  When  brother  came  to 
carnp,  in  the  evening,  I  had  panned  out  seventeen  dollars,  with 
a  crippled  arm.  There  was  a  little  excitement.  We  notified 
the  balance  of  the  party  who  were  some  ten  miles  away.  We 
all  located  and  staked  claims  and  named  the  place  Lynx  creek, 
after  my  fight  with  the  lynx.  We  took  out  over  six  thousand 
dollars,  over  our  yearly  expenses.  During  the  year  1863, 
I  located  the  ranch  at  Miller  Valley,  known  as  Miller  Ranch 
one  mile  from  Prescott  now,  but  then  no  white  men,  but 
our  party  had  visited  this  section  of  country,  but  there  were 
plenty  of  redskins,  as  we  soon  found  out.  I  have  lived  here,  as  a 
home  here  ever  since,  have  farmed  the  valley,  and  run  freight 
teams  and  fought  the  Indians,  when  I  had  too.  At  one  time 
I  was  attacked  between  my  ranch  and  Lynx  creek,  my  mule 
was  taken  from  me,  by  me  being  shot  from  his  back,  through 
the  left  leg.  There  were  three  of  us,  who  kept  firing,  arid 
retreating,  until  I  reached  a  log  cabin  on  Lynx  creek,  that 
we  had  built  long  before,  I  got  into  the  old  cabin  and  fired 
through  the  cracks,  and  the  Indians  left,  I  mean  those  who 
could  leave.  We  had  killed  thirteen.  The  next  trouble  I  had 
with  them  was  here  on  the  ranch,  where  you  visited  me  two 
years  ago..  The  Indians  had  been  shooting  from  the  rocks, 
at  me  sometimes  at  the  house.  Every  time  one  would  get 
sight  of  me,  he  would  shoot  so  I  thought  to  be  ready  for  them, 
for  when*  night -came,  there  was  no  telling  what  the  villians 
would  attempt.  So  I  took  my  mule  into  the  house,  and  saddled 
it  well,  fastened  securely  all  I  intended  to  take  with  me,  I 
intended  to  leave  for  Lynx  creek,  where  my  brother  and  some 
other  white  men  were.  The  Indians  came  before  I  got  started. 


81 

set  fire  to  my  house,  I  got  on  my  mule,  and  lifted  the  door 
latch,  and  rode  out  putting  the  spurs  into  the  flanks  of  my 
beast,  shooting  with  both  hands,  as  I  rode  swiftly  away.  It 
was  near  nine  miles  to  our  house  on  Lynx  creek,  the  nearest 
place  of  a  person  living,  and  when  I  got  there  the  boys  were 
all  asleep.  I  tied  my  mule,  that  was  completely  run  down, 
spread  down  my  blanket  and  went  to  sleep.  The  next  morn 
ing  one  of  the  boys,  said,  "Sam  you  must  have  been  in  an 
Indian  fight."  I  said,  "yes"  and  told  them  my  trouble,  and 
they  pulled  thirteen  arrows  from  my  coat,  which  was  tied 
behind  my  saddle.  I  have  been  in  very  many  Indian  fights. 
I  was  captain  of  a  company  for  fom*  years  here,  organized  to 
keep  them  off  white  settlers. 

My  brother  and  I  ran  freight  teams  from  1865  until  the 
present  time,  from  Los  Angles,  California,  to  Wickenberg,  Ari 
zona.  At  times  we  had  twenty-two  teams,  twelve  mules  to  a 
team,  with  two  wagons  to  each  team.  We  loaded  from  sixteen  to 
twenty-five  thousand  pounds  to  a  team.  We  received  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  cents  per  pound  freight,  for  a  distance 
of  six  hundred  and  forty  miles.  I  contracted  with  the  gov 
ernment,  doing  all  their  freighting,  transporting  soldiers,  from 
one  place  to  another,  sometimes  taking  them  into  New  Mexico. 
I  moved  one  regiment  at  a  time.  At  one  time  my  train  of 
teams  was  attacked  by  Indians.  They  followed  us,  kept  up 
the  fighting  for  three  days.  We  kept  them  from  our  teams 
by  care  and  hard  work.  At  last  the  chief  of  the  tribe,  called 
to  my  men,  he  wanted  to  make  a  treaty,  and  said  he  would  meet 
the  little  captain,  (that  was  Sam  Miller)  out  on  a  nice  level 
grassy  place,  about  three  hundred  yards  from  the  wagons. 
So  we- held  a  council  talk  and  we  concluded  that  I  should  meet 
him.  We  were  to  have  no  guns  or  bows  and  arrows.  When 
I  went  out  to  him,  he  carried  his  bow  and  arrow  with  him. 


82 

I  spoke  to  him  and  said,  "Chief  you  did  not  leave  your  bow 
and  arrow."  He  said,  "If  you  don't  do  as  I  want  you  too, 
I  will  kill  you."  I  had  kept  two  pistols  in  my  belt,  under  my 
buck-skin  coat.  I  drew  my  pistol  and  shot,  and  broke  his 
neck,  one  of  his  sons  jumped  out  of  the  grass  from  a  hiding 
place,  shot  at  me,  I  then  shot  him,  in  the  head,  and  killed 
him.  Then  another  came  out  of  the  grass.  I  shot  him  in  the 
thigh,  he  screamed.  The  Indians  then  came  on  a  charge,  shoot 
ing  at  me,  as  I  ran  for  the  teams.  I  was  between  two  fires, 
my  men  shooting  at  the  Indians  and  the  Indians  after  me. 
The  wife  of  our  judge  here  at  Prescott  was  in  the  whole  fight. 
The  governor's  wife  was  with  the  same  family,  they  were  on 
the  route  from  California,  her  parents  were  also  with  us,  my 
brother  and  myself,  the  remainder  of  our  party  were  my  team 
sters,  cook  and  stage  driver.  We  had  a  covered  rig  along,  so 
if  there  were  ladies  along  they  could  be  better  cared  for. 

,My  sister  Hetty;  her  husband; Wm.  Nickason  and  his  son 
Leslie;  Uncle  Henry's  son  Charley;  brother  Jacob's  three  chil 
dren;  they  all  came  from  California,  with  me  and 
brother  Jacob  and  my  teams.  They  left  Illinois  just 
in  time  to  meet  the  teams.  Do  you  not  remember 
when  you  were  in  California  in  1876,  I  wrote  you 
if  you  wished  to  come  on  to  Arizona  it  should  cost  you  noth 
ing?  The  capital  of  Arizona,  was  first  established  at  Prescott, 
then  I  moved  the  books,  records,  and  all  they  wanted  taken, 
with  my  teams  to  Tuscon.  The  capital  was  changed  again 
to  Prescott,  then  I  hauled  it  on  to  Phoenix,  making  three  times 
I  helped  the  seat  of  government  to  move.  I  was  a  member  of 
the  Fourteenth  Legislature  of  Arizona. 

Have  buried  my  father  here  at  Prescott  in  1877;  my 
brother  Jacob  in  the  same  cemetery  in  1899;  Sister  Catherine 
Barnett  lies  in  Oregon;  Tom  my  youngest  brother  at  Phoenix, 


83 

Arizona;  Sister  Sally  Ann  Irwin  at  Head  of  Elms,  Texas; 
mother  and  Hetty  at  Princeville,  Illinois ;  Sister  Tvlary  at  Chi 
cago.  Only  three  left  of  a  large  family,  -Logan  at  DeWitt, 
Nebraska,  Cloe  Nickason  at  Beatrice,  Nebraska. 

When  I  was  twenty  years  old,  I  could  outride,  outrun, 
outshoot  any  man  I  ever  saw.  While  I  was  in  N.ew  Mexico, 
I  was  employed  by  the  government  to  carry  mail.  My  route 
was  from  Santa  Fe  to  the  mining  country,  distance  about  two 
hundred  miles.  I  made  the  trip  once  in  two  weeks  on  my 
mule,  which  was  an  extra  good  one.  He  could  scent  an  In 
dian  a  long  way  off.  He  would  snort,  look  about,  start  as  if 
to  run,  at  the  slightest  indication  of  Indians.  My  mail  route 
lay  through  savage  Indian  country.  I  had  started  from  the 
mining  camps  to  Santa  Fe.  I  had  gone  over  the  greater  part 
of  my  journey,  and  was  in  good  spirits.  The  miners  had  been 
very  successful,  and  wanted  me  to  take  near  three  hundred 
dollars,  for  them,  to  the  fort,  at  Santa  Fe.  I  put  the  gold  into 
the  saddle  bags,  and  fastened  them  to  the  saddle.  It  was  near 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  I  passed  a  stream  of  water,  after 
I  had  crossed  it  I  decided  to  get  off  and  get  a  drink.  There 
was  only  a  path  or  trail,  the  grass  was  near  knee  high.  I  dis 
mounted  holding  my  mule  by  the  bridle,  when  the  mule  gave  a 
sudden  jerk,  throwing  me  to  the  ground,  the  bridle  was 
wrenched  from  my  hand,  the  mule  galloping  away  at  full 
speed,  but  fortunately  for  me  he  went  in  the  direction  of  Santa 
Fe.  Santa  Fe  was,  as  near  as  I  could  tell  about  sixty  miles 
away.  I  knew  what  \vas  the  matter  with  the  mule.  He 
scented  Indians.  They  might  be  some  distance  and  never 
find  me  out,  but  then  they  might  be  only  a  few  yards  away. 
They  were  likely  to  be  on  foot,  I  did  not  hunt  Indians,  but 
started  as  fast  as  I  could  run  after  the  mule,  not  that  I 
thought  to  catch  him,  but  that  was  the  way  home.  My  coat, 


84 

my  rifle,  a  Winchester,  that  I  could  kill  an  Indian  with,  at  a 
distance  of  a  hundred  yards,  was  on  that  mule.  I  run  as 
long  as  I  thought  I  dared.  There  was  one  thing  sure,  the 
mule  knew  the  way  to  Santa  Fe,  I  did  too,  I  too  was  sure  that 
no  one  could  catch  the  mule,  but  I  feared  that  straggling 
Indians  would  see  the  gun  on  the  mule  and  would  shoot  him. 
I  had  gone  about  two  miles  when  I  heard  yells  of  the  redskins 
on  my  track.  I  looked,  they  were  not  in  sight.  I  then  looked  in 
every  direction,  wondering  if  I  had  better  leave  the  trail.  To 
the  east  I  saw  two  Indians  coming  toward  me  on  horseback. 
I  dropped  in  the  grass,  I  was  quite  sure  they  had  not  seen  me. 
As  soon  as  they  were  near  enough  I  shot  one  in  the  head  he 
fell  from  the  horse.  I  shot  the  other  Indian,  also  his  horse. 
I  mounted  the  other  horse.  He  was  well  blanketed.  I  wasted 
no  time  here.  Took  a  fine  scalping  knife  from  the  Indian's 
belt.  I  don't  think  from  the  time  of  my  first  shot,  that  it 
had  been  over  fifteen  minutes.  I  found  the  horse  a  great  help. 
I  put  my  spurs  into  his  side,  rode  as  fast  as  possible.  I  felt  that 
1  was  liable  to  be  out  all  night,  and  I  was  quite  anxious  to  see 
that  infernal  mule.  I  did  not  see,  nor  hear  anything  more  of 
the  band  of  Indians,  that  I  thought  were  following  me.  I 
made  good  time.  The  horse  was  a  Mexican  mustang,  I  did 
not  care  how  soon  he  died,  if  he  only  held  out  till  I  reached  the 
fort.  I  kept  on  the  lookout  for  that  mule,  thought  after  he 
was  well  nigh  run  down,  he  might  stop  to  eat.  Dark  had 
reached  me,  but  beautiful  moonlight.  About  thirty  yards  off 
I  saw  something,  as  I  approached  closer  I  saw  ;t  was  the  mule. 
I  rode  slowly,  knowing  if  I  made  the  least  noise,  he  would 
start.  I  leveled  my  revolver,  shot  three  times  fearing  I  might 
miss  him.  He  fell.  This  was  one  of  the  meanest  things  I 
ever  did  in  all  my  life.  I  never  hated  to  do  anything  so  badly. 
There  was  on  the  mule,  my  gun,  coat,  the  mail  bags,  containing 


85 

the  money.  I  got  them  all,  took  saddle  and  bridle  from  the 
mule.  The  bridle  cost  me  twenty  dollars.  I  arrived  at  Santa 
Fe  at  2  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Slept  the  rest  of  the  night. 
Was  ready  for  breakfast  next  morning.  The  horse  died  the 
next  day. 


HOW  I  ESCAPED  THE  APACHES. 


After  spending  Christmas  at  cousin  Sam's,  and  hearing 
the  thrilling  Indian  tales,  with  the  Apache  and  Comache  In 
dians,  I  almost  forgot  there  was  a  time  of  peace,  but  still  at 
times,  when  crazed  with  drink  they  commit  terrible  deeds. 
We  had  some  fine  weather  after  Christmas,  with  a  slight  skip 
of  snow  on  the  ground.  Cousin  J.  L.  Miller  from  Skull  Valley 
had  come  to  take  dinner  with  me,  and  told  many  hair-breadth 
escapes  from  the  Apaches;  how  he  had  bought  two  hundred 
Winchester  rifles  at  San  Francisco  and  brought  them  to  Pres- 
cott  on  his  mule  train,  for  the  white  settlers  to  protect  them 
selves  from  the  Indians  with.  These  guns  cost  forty  dollars 
apiece,  they  were  thirty  at  San  Francisco,  by  taking  the  lot. 
Many  of  the  guns  were  ordered  by  settlers  before  they  were 
brought.  My  cousin  brought  provisions  for  the  people  at  the 
time.  Flour  at  that  time  was  twenty  dollars  a  barrel;  beans, 
five  dollars  per  bushel ;  bacon  only  one  dollar  per  pound ;  butter, 
eggs  and  milk  were  only  thought  of.  Dried  fruit  from 
fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  per  pound.  Food  was  scarcer 
than  money.  A  pair  of  boots  brought  fifteen  dol 
lars;  a  buck-skin  suit,  twenty-five  dollars.  The  prices  all 
seemed  like  those  at  Klondyke.  It  was  the  last  day  of  Decem 
ber,  and  we  were  getting  ready  for  Phoenix.  It  was  no  small 
job  for  me  to  get  the  rocks  and  minerals  ready  for  our  pockets 


were  loaded  down  with  the  precious  relics.  Storey  had  de 
clared  that  I  should  not  put  another  specimen  in  his  pocket,  as 
he  was  then  weighed  to  the  earth  with  them.  I  decided  to 
put  them  into  a  box. 

I  often  think  if  I  were  at  Kimberly,  I  would  pick  up  such 
diamonds  as  no  Boer  ever  saw.     We  had  eaten  an  early  supper, 
and  went  to  bed  early,  thinking  on  the  next  day  to  have  some 
cousins  to  dine  with  me.     Storey  was  soon  asleep  as  usual, 
I  took  a  short  nap  and  then  it  seemed  difficult  for  me  to  slumber 
again.     I  felt  as  if  something  might  happen,  I  did  not  know 
what.     My  thoughts  wandered  home.  I  wondered  if  all  was 
well  there,  as  we  had  received  no  letter  forsome  days.  I  thought 
of  the  fine  dinner  prepared  for  us,  before  our  departure  by 
Judge  R.  Mi.  Benjamin  and  wife.     I  then  thought  of  our  long 
journey  over  the  mountains,  and  the  many  miles  from  home, 
that  we  were,  when  my  chain  of  thought  was  broken  by  hideous 
yells,  and  rapid  firing  of  guns.     I  was  crazed  in  excitement, 
trying  to  awaken  Storey,  but  all  to  no  purpose,  he  only  slept 
sounder,  if  any  change  in  him  at  all.     I  climbed  from  the  bed 
wondering  what  such  intense  excitement  could  mean.     I  was 
quite  sure  the  yells  were  those  of  the  Apaches.     I  wondered  of 
what  use  were  the  soldiers  at  Fort  Whipple.     Our  window  did 
not  face  the  street,  I  peeped  out,  but  could  see  nothing,  but  hear 
the  most  hideous  yells,  I  had  ever  heard.     I  got  my  purse,  my 
watch   and    Storey's   pocketbook.     I   decided   if   they   killed 
Storey  I  should  try  hard  to  escape  with  the  money,  but  I  began 
shaking  him,  as  a  terrier  dog  shakes  a  rat.     I  told  him  a  band 
of  Indians  were  in  front  of  the  house,  he  began  to  rub  his  eyes. 
The  guns  and  yells  were  enough  to  awaken  the  dead.     Storey 
was  somewhat  alarmed,  put  on  his  trousers,  as  if  he  had  been 
told  to  do  so,  wondering  what  such  a  commotion  meant.     He 
ran  into  the  hall,  calling  to  a  Mr.  Smith,  who  lived  in  the  other 


87 

part  of  the  house,  and  asked,  what  on  earth  does  this  all  mean. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith  knew  no  more  than  we  did.  Still  they 
had  never  been  disturbed  by  the  Indians  since  they  had  lived  in 
Prescott.  Mr.  Smith  went  to  the  front  door,  revolver  in  his 
hand,  ready  to  shoot  the  first  Indian,  who  should  make  fight, 
while  Storey  listened  to  the  clock  strike  twelve.  This  was  the 
New  Year  of  1898,  and  the  party  in  the  street  were  welcoming 
the  New  Year.  Not  an  Apache  Indian  in  the  whole  crowd.  I 
had  often  told  Storey  he  orto  learn  to  shoot,  that  a  man  who 
could  not  shoot  a  gun,  was  a  poor  protection  to  his  wife,  es 
pecially  in  that  section  of  the  country. 


88 


NEW  MEXICO. 


In  October,  1896,  Storey  and  I  joined  an  excursion  party 
to  the  Pecos  Valley,  New  Mexico.  The  traveling  agent,  C. 
E.  Benjamin,  of  the  Pecos  Valley  Irrigation  and  Improvement 
company  was  the  leader  of  the  party.  We  had  heard  of  the 
beauties  of  this  valley  through  a  friend,  John  Dodge,  of  Nor 
mal.  He  had  been  to  this  valley,  and  was  much  attracted  by 
the  fine  climate,  fine  fruit,  it  being  a  true  home  for  the  apple 
tree.  We  had  seen  the  fine  fruit  at  Illinois  State  Fair,  at 
Springfield,  in  1895.  The  apples  of  this  valley  are  perfect. 
An  offer  of  ten  dollars  to  any  person  finding  a  wormy  apple. 
It  cannot  be  done.  We  met  a  number  of  other  persons  from 
Springfield  and  Petersburg,  who  were  members  of  our  ex 
cursion  party.  The  object  was  to  sell  land.  I  thought  it  well 
enough  to  go  and  see  this  land  of  Eden.  We  went  by  St. 
Louis,  and  reached  there  in  time  to  see  the  great  display  of 
the  Veiled  Prophets,  of  which  we  hear  so  much.  The  sight 
was  fine.  I  had  never  seen  anything  like  it.  I  was  also  at 
tracted  by  the  great  steel  bridge  which  spans  the  Mississippi 
river.  The  union  depot  at  St.  Louis'  is  the  finest  I  have  ever 
been  in,  and  the  best  arranged  to  accommodate  the  traveler 
of  any,  where  I  have  ever  been.  We  left  St.  Louis  at  10  p.m., 
over  the  Iron  Mountain  route  until  we  reached  Texarkana, 
then  we  took  the  Southern  Pacific  through  Texas.  The  Iron 
Mountain  route  I  believe  is  rightly  named,  for  it  was  surely  the 
roughest  railroad  I  had  ever  been  on.  The  ones  I  had  been 
on  were  these :  The  Union  Pacific,  Central  Pacific,  Napa  and 
Calistoga,  California  Southern,  Salt  Lake,  Central  Pacific 
branch,  Illinois  Central,  Santa  Fe  main  line,  Kansas  and  Den 
ver  main  line,  Iowa  Central,  Chicago  Burlington  &  Quincy, 


89 

Buda  and  Rushville  branch,  Rock  Island  and  Pacific,  Toledo, 
Peoria  &  Western,  Chicago  &  Northwestern,  Lake  Erie,  Big 
Four,  Michigan  Southern,  Erie  &  Lehigh  Valley,  Chicago  & 
Alton.  This  Iron  Mountain  route  was  ahead  of  anything  for 
roughness,  but  the  coaches  were  separate.  On  one  coach  we 
read  Whites,  on  another  Blacks.  There  is  much  more  distinc 
tion  between  the  whites  and  blacks  in  the  south  than  in  these 
Northern  States.  These  things  in  traveling  called  to  mind 
the  day  of  slavery  in  the  Southern  States.  I  remember  that 
when  my  father  was  a  boy  he  often  went  to  negro  sales.  They 
were  perched  upon  a  block  and  sold  to  the  highest  bidder,  the 
same  as  a  horse  at  an  auction.  Those  that  were  in  prime  of 
life,  capable  of  the  most  hard  work,  brought  the  most  money. 
Parents  and  children,  husbands  and  wives,  were  thus  separated 
and  often  taken  to  differen  states.  I  was  not  favorably  im 
pressed  with  what  I  saw  of  Arkansas,  except  Little  Rock.  Near 
here  I  met  the  widow  of  Wm.  Henry  Haynes,  a  rebel  general. 
Mrs.  Haynes  was  a  southern  lady  of  fine  type.  She  owned  exten 
sive  cotton  mills  at  Little  Rock.  She  was  very  clever,  offering 
if  I  would  stop  with  her  for  a  few  days,  she  would  drive  me 
about  the  city  and  to  these  great  cotton  mills  free  of  all  charge 
for  board  or  carriage  hire,  but  we  were  billed  for 
Eddy,  now  Carlsbad,  New  Mexico,  and  Storey  said 
we  must  go  on.  I  shall  never  take  a  man  along 
when  I  go  on  another  tour,  but  I  expect  he  will  be 
like  Josiah  Allen,  will  follow  on.  We  saw  many  fields  white 
with  cotton  pods  just  bursting,  with  here  and  there  a  black 
head  bobbing  about.  Storey  got  out  of  the  car  one  day  to  get 
some  cotton  while  the  train  was  stopped  for  some  cause,  by 
a  large  field  of  cotton.  He  came  so  near  getting  left  he  did  not 
attempt  it  again,  but  he  got  the  cotton.  Arkansas  seems  to 
me  as  a  general  thing  a  country  of  not  much  consequence. 


90 

Low  swamp  lands  and  hogs  so  poor  that  it  would  take  two 
to  make  a  meal.  They  looked  as  though  they  got  nothing  to 
eat  but  a  few  hazelnuts  and  the  inhabitants  seemed  to  par 
take  of  the  same  nature,  in  looks  and  surroundings.  We 
traversed  the  state  of  Texas  from  east  to  west.  I  like  some  of 
Texas  quite  well,  Dallas  and  Fort  Worth  are  fine  places.  One 
can  form  no  idea  from  the  vast  expanse  of  land  in  Texas. 
Western  Texas  is  suitable  only  as  a  grazing  section.  No  trees 
of  any  size  in  western  Texas.  The  climate  I  think  healthful. 
The  only  place  I  saw  in  the  western  part  of  the  state  where  I 
thought  one  could  live,  was  at  Big  Springs.  We  crossed  the 
great  staked  plain,  and  we  met  no  northerners,  although  they 
are  common  in  all  northern  portions  of  the  state.  The  sage 
brush,  and  mosquite  bush  are  prevalent  enough  to  show  one 
that  part  of  Texas  belongs  to  the  desert  regions  of  North 
America.  The  cattle  eat  the  leaves  of  the  mosquite  where  they 
cannot  get  grass. 

It  was  good  for  us  that  our  lunch  basket  was  well  filled, 
as  I  did  not  see  much  show  to  get  much  on  the  way.  At  Pecos 
city  we  changed  cars  for  the  delightful  valley.  This  was  a 
one-horse  railroad.  They  waited  until  passengers  were  ready 
to  go.  Storey  was  well  nigh  tired  out.  We  reached  Eddy, 
the  name  is  now  changed  to  Carlsbad,  as  some  fine  springs  have 
been  discovered  *in  the  vicinity  similar  to  those  in  Germany. 
We  found  a  fine  hotel  known  as  the  Hagerman.  It  was  one 
of  the  finest  hotels  kept  by  a  gentleman  from  Kansas  City. 
This  hotel  was  owned  by  the  company,  and  so  was  everything 
else  that  amounted  to  anything.  Mr.  Eddy,  the  chief  manager 
of  affairs  being  a  Denver  man,  everything  was  up  to  date.  We 
had  the  choicest  fruits  of  the  season,  the  drinking  water  came 
in  pipes  from  the  Black  canyon  three  miles  away.  The  climate 
was  perfectly  delightful.  There  being  no  rainfall  to  speak  of, 


91 

the  climate  is  perfectly  dry  only  where  irrigated.  The  great 
water  dams  for  the  irrigating  are  immense  strucures  and  I 
think  their  water  supply  better  and  more  liable  to  hold  out  than 
at  Phoenix,  Arizona. 

They  have  electric  lights,  an  ice  plant  and  I  saw  much  bet 
ter  fruit  prospects  there,  than  at  Phoenix.  Such  loads  of  ap 
ples  breaking  down  little  trees ;  such  melons,  onions,  cabbages 
and  delightful  peaches.  It  seems  to  me  that  at  Phoenix  the  air 
is  so  hot  that  the  fruit  is  cooked  on  the  trees.  I  would  prefer  to 
cook  my  own  fruit.  The  great  Alfalfa  fields  of  Phoenix  furnish 
pasture  for  thousands  of  cattle.  We  spent  some  little  time  at 
Eddy,  took  a  trip  on  a  beautiful  afternoon  to  the  great  dam. 
We  rode  on  the  flying  Jenny.  This  car  was  a  small  engine 
with  seats  for  eight  or  ten  persons,  attached  so  they  were 
comfortably  seated,  and  the  thing  run  like  lightning.  I  never 
rode  so  fast.  The  great  dam  of  the  Pecos  River  was  a  wonder  to 
our  eyes.  A  boy  sat  there  fishing,  he  drew  out  his  line  every  two 
or  three  minutes  with  a  nice  speckled  trout  upon  his  hook.  He 
informed  us  that  he  lived  near  the  dam  and  that  he  could  catch 
all  the  fish  he  wanted  in  half  an  hour.  And  such  sunshine. 
We  rode  over  the  country  sometimes  fifty  miles  a  day.  We 
took  dinner  at  the  Chism  ranch,  and  such  a  fruit  orchard  as  I 
saw  there.  The  little  apple  trees  were  bending  to  the  ground 
with  their  loads  of  fruit.  And  such  perfect  apples,  with  not  a 
blemish  of  any  kind.  We  found  many  people  from  the  South 
ern  States  settled  in  this  part  of  New  Mexico.  The  water  sup 
ply  of  the  Pecos  Valley  is  fed  by  unfailing  springs. 

This  city  of  Carlsbad  promises  to  be  one  of  the  great  bath 
ing  resorts  of  the  New  World.  Hot  Springs  being  the  most 
famous  of  which  I  shall  speak  later.  We  were  driven  to  Ros- 
well,  there  we  were  obliged  to  stop  over  night  in  a  Chinese 
hotel,  but  run  on  the  American  plan.  I  rather  dreaded  it  as 


92 

soon  as  I  found  out  there  was  no  other  show.  Roswell  is  situ 
ated  at  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Pecos  Valley  railroad.  A 
continuation  of  this  road  is  now  made  through  to  Washburn 
and  intersects  with  the  Denver  Pacific.  This  continuation 
makes  a  shorter  route  into  New  Mexico,  by  several  hundred 
miles,  and  will  be  a  great  advantage  to  stock  shippers.  At  the 
hotel  at  Roswell,  I  imagined  I  had  bird's  next  soup  for  dinner, 
and  they  were  not  done ;  Storey  said  he  hated  to  suck  eggs,  but 
it  looked  as  if  he  had  to.  They  had  fish  too,  but  we  were  afraid 
of  them.  They  said  they  were  cat,  but  I  thought  they  were 
just  as  apt  to  be  dog  as  cat,  however  I  did  not  care  to  eat  any. 
There  was  a  female  Chinese  there.  She  was  dressed  in  silk. 
Had  on  satin  slippers;  she  was  hobbling  around  on  her  little 
feet,  scarcely  large  enough  for  a  year  old  child.  She  had  on  a 
loose  pair  of  trousers  which  they  call  a  foo,  and  a  kind  of 
jacket,  which  they  call  a  sham.  I  thought  they  might  as  well 
call  the  whole  thing  a  fool  sham;  that  was  nearer  like  being 
rightly  named.  When  they  brought  their  bill  of  fare  it  was 
printed  in  Chinese,  with  a  few  English  words.  The  Chinese 
characters  looked  like  duck  tracks.  We  asked  how  much 
money  for  supper.  He  said  a  yen.  Storey  said  he  wanted  one 
of  our  hens,  he  really  rather  give  him  a  rooster.  When  I 
thought  a  little  I  remembered  a  yen  is  a  dollar  of  our  money. 
A  yen  is  made  of  copper  with  a  square  hole  in  the  center.  These 
yens  are  often  strung  on  a  ribbon  or  string  and  worn  around 
the  neck.  The  Jap  who  carries  the  most  yens  is  the  richest 
man.  The  tea  made  by  the  Japs,  or  the  Chinese  is  of  the  very 
finest  quality.  They  keep  the  best  tea  for  home  use. 

We  soon  arrived  at  Eddy,  ate  a  good  supper,  and  next 
day  started  for  home.  I  wished  that  we  had  a  balloon  that 
we  might  traverse  Western  Texas  without  the  dust  and  in 
convenience  of  the  long  trip  across  the  plains. 


93 

Our  homeward  journey  was  quite  pleasant  and  as  we  were 
near  ing  St.  Louis  we  were  delayed  by  a  freight  train  just  ahead 
of  us  being  wrecked.     We  reached  the  great  city  an  hour  after 
the  Chicago  &  Alton  train  had  left  for  home.     Well  I  was  not 
going  to  be  put  out  much,  we  would  visit  the  great  exposition 
which  was  at  its  greatest  height.     I  really  thought  our  being 
left  was  a  blessing  in  disguise.     We  spent  the  day,  and  were 
entertained  by  Sousa's  fine  band,  the  best  in  the  United  States. 
We  also  saw  Madame  Carthcart's  Dog  Show.     The  dogs  were 
well  trained  and  performed  some  very  fine  feats.     One  was  a 
funeral  train.    A  .dog  rescuing  a  child  from  a  burning  building 
was  the  first  scene.     The  dog  was  burned  to  death  in  the  act 
of  rescuing  the  child.     Two  dogs  came  as  pallbearers.     One 
dog  dressed  as  a  lady  mourner.     The  dead  dog  was  wheeled 
away  in  a  wagon  for  burial.     The  next  scene  was  a  fight,  the 
dogs  were  dressed  in  clothes,  standing  upright.     It  was  Cor- 
bett  and  Fitzsimmons.     Then  came  another  dog  dressed  as 
policeman  who  parted  the  fighters  with  his  club.     He  wore  the 
color  of  the  policman  and  brass  buttons  and  the  star.     It  was 
a  very  interesting  scene.     I  never  was  an  admirer  of  dogs  ex 
cept  when  they  were  of  fine  breed,  but  I  really  would  like  to 
peep  at  the  kennels  of  George  Vanderbilt  in  North  Carolina, 
and  if  I  ever  chance  in  that  section  I  shall  not  fail  to  see  them. 
In  seeing  the  dogs  fight,  I  remembered  in  passing  through 
Texas,  near  Dallas,  wlhere  I  had  seen  a  huge  amphitheater  which 
had  been  erected  for  the   great  prize   fight   of   Corbett    and 
Fitzimmons,  but  the  governor  of  Texas  was  too  wise  a  man  to 
allow  such  a  fight,  and  forbade  the  fight  within  the  borders  of 
Texas. 

Many  people  are  like  those  who  built  the  large  building; 
their  works  accomplished  nothing.  The  new  steel  bridge  is 
one  of  the  wonders  in  the  west.  The  union  depot  is  one  of 


94 

the  wonders  of  St.  Louis.  The  ladies  there  are  large,  robust, 
well  dressed  and  well  informed  women  and  Storey  declared  he 
never  saw  so  many  pretty  women. 

I  saw  the  finest  apples  I  ever  saw  at  the  exposition,  and  I 
think  Missouri  a  great  apple  and  peach  country.  When  we 
arrived  home  the  house  stood  in  the  same  place,  where  we  had 
left  it,  but  the  November  wind  was  whistling  through  the  trees 
in  the  campus  and  we  were  glad  we  were  home.  But  we  re 
member  New  Mexico  as  an  ideal  climate,  fine  fruit  and  vege 
tables.  Now  that  such  fine  things  have  been  discovered  there, 
and  possess  great  medical  qualities,  the  name  Eddy  has  been 
changed  to  Carlsbad,  after  the  noted  city  of  Europe,  where 
there  are  fine  springs,  and  doubtless  this  city  of  Carlsbad,  New 
Mexico,  situated  in  the  Pecos  Valley,  will  be  one  of  the  most 
famous  watering  places  in  America.  Hot  Springs  and  Eureka 
Springs  stand  among  the  first. 


95 


WORLD'S  FAIR. 

Information  was  given  in  the  Agricultural  Building  by 
cards  and  tags. 

There  were  many  private  booths,  the  cost  of  some  of  these 
was  $25,000. 

Canned  goods  largely  represented.  Confectionery,  soaps, 
tobacco,  and  a  large  list  of  manufactured  food  products.  Every 
exhibit  told  its  own  story. 

The  Anthropological  Building  was  in  the  southeastern 
portion  of  the  grounds.  The  early  history  of  America  was 
made  a  specialty. 

The  section  of  Ethnology  was  interesting. 

The  American  Indian  was  represented  by  native  families 
in  their  huts,  living  in  the  exact  Way  their  forefathers  lived  be 
fore  being  disturbed  by  the  white  men;  the  Indians  cooked, 
made  trinkets  which  they  sold  to  the  visitor;  there  was  a  skin 
tent  with  a  family  from  the  Eskimo  village ;  the  birch  bark  wig 
wam  of  the  Penobscots  with  several  families  from  Maine;  a 
mat  house  and  bark  of  the  Winnebagoes ;  skin  and  bark  houses 
of  the  Chippawas ;  a  house  of  turf  from  Colorado  with  a  band 
of  Apaches  singing  their  war  songs  in  front  of  it. 

Hygiene  and  Sanitation  were  also  well  represented. 

Insane  hospitals  were  given  a  large  share  of  attention. . 
The  natural  color  of  buildings  is  a  murky  white,  but  other 
colors  are  produced  by  external  washes.    For  the  lower  portions 
of  the  wall  the  material  was  mixed  with  cement   which  makes  it 
hard.   One  hundred  and  twenty  carloads  of  glass  were  used  in 
covering  the  roofs  of  the  various  structures.  More  than  forty  ca 
loads  were  used  for  the  Manufactures  Building  alone.      They 
were  ornamented  and  planned  without  regard  to  cost. 


96 

There  were  immense  pieces  of  sculpture  throughout  the 
grounds.  The  Columbia  Fountain  was  one  of  the  beautiful 
decorations.  The  great  buildings  were  thirteen  in  number. 
The  names  they  bore  indicate  their  uses. 

There  were  four  entrances  to  the  Administration  Build 
ing.  The  underside  of  the  dome  was  filled  with  immense 
paintings.  At  the  top  of  the  arches  was  a  white  molding; 
resting  on  this  molding  were  eight  panels,  and  on  each  hung  a 
gilt  slate.  On  each  slate  was  some  important  record  in  the 
world's  progress  as :  "Gunpowder  was  first  used  by  Europeans 
in  1325."  The  sculptor  of  the  Administration  Building  was 
Karl  Bitter,  of  New  York. 

The  Agricultural  Building  was  devoted  to  the  interest  of 
the  farmer,  and  dairy  and  contained  an  experiment  station. 

The  World's  Columbian  Exposition  began  May  i,  1893. 
in  South  Chicago  at  Jackson  Park  and  Washington  Park.  An 
invitation  was  given  to  the  world  to  take  part  in  this  exposition. 

The  plans  for  the  buildings  were  made  by  the  best  archi 
tects  in  America.  The  total  cost  of  the  buildings  was  $8,000,- 
ooo. 

It  will  be  impossible  for  me  in  this  work  to  do  anything 
more  than  mention  things  I  saw  there,  but  as  scarcely  any  one 
saw  the  same  things,  I  may  be  able  to  speak  of  somthing  you 
did  not  see,  and  I  hardly  think  anyone  could  see  all  the  great 
things  there  displayed.  I  enjoyed  the  show  very  much,  and 
another  thing  I  enjoyed  was  meeting  my  cousins,  Mrs.  Nellie 
Rollins  and  Mrs.  Jennie  Skidmore,  who  had  just  arrived  from 
her  home  in  Mexico  City.  I  had  not  met  them  for  twenty 
years.  The  materials  of  the  buildings  were  wood,  iron,  glass, 
and  what  is  called  staff.  Thirty  thousand  tons  of  staff  was 
consumed.  It  was  invented  in  France,  in  1876,  and  was  first 
used  in  the  buildings  of  the  Paris  Exposition  in  1878.  It  was 


97 

composed  chiefly  of  powdered  gypsum,  the  other  constituents 
being  alumina,  glycerine,  and  dextrine.  These  are  mixed  with 
wiater,  without  heat  and  cast  in  molds. 

The  Art  Building  was  one  of  the  most  attractive.  No 
wood  was  used  in  this  building.  The  very  panes  of  glass  in 
the  windows  were  set  in  iron  frames.  In  the  United  States 
exhibit  were  one  thousand  and  seventy-five  paintings  by  Ameri 
can  artists.  The  French  section  occupied  a  fine  position. 

The  Japanese  showed  us  work  on  silk. 

There  were  'wonderful  machines  shown  in  the  electrical 
exhibit;  telegraph  and  telephone;  the  statue  of  Franklin  and 
his  key  to  the  elements. 

The  Fisheries  Building  was  one  of  interest.  The  flowers 
all  over  the  parks  were  very  beautiful. 

In  the  California  exhibit  was  a  pyramid  of  oranges.  This 
orange  exhibit  showed  oranges  from  the  finest  navel  to  the 
most  common  growth.  In  Machinery  Hall  there  was  a  great 
display  of  engines.  The  cotton  and  silk  looms  and  ribbon 
looms,  machines  for  making  hooks  and  eyes,  machinery  for 
wooden  ware,  printing,  decorative  work  on  wood  were  inter 
esting. 

The  Manufacturers  Building  was  one  of  great  interest  to 
me. 

Cape  Colony  had  a  large  exhibit  of  mohair  and  ivory. 
One  ivory  tusk  seven  and  one-half  feet  long  was  worth  thirteen 
hundred  dollars. 

The  Cingalese  Pavilion  was  a  beautiful  one.  The  sup 
ports  of  the  little  house  were  of  ebony,  which  in  the  rough  is 
sold  at  twp  hundred  or  three  hundred  dollars  a  ton. 

One  hundred  men  were  employed  for  six  months  in  Co 
lombo,  carving  wood  for  these  buildings. 


98 

In  the  Mines  Building  there  was  a  statue  of  rock  salt 
representing  Lot's  wife.  The  Pennsylvania  coal,  iron  and  oil 
exhibit  was  fine. 

Michigan  displayed  her  copper  industry.  New  Mexico 
had  a  miner's  cabin  made  from  minerals. 

Montana  a  statue  of  solid  silver.  Mexican  display  was 
mostly  of  saddlery. 

The  Woman's  Building  was  one  of  the  best,  and  all  kinds 
of  articles  made  by  women  were  seen.  There  was  a  model 
kindergarten  and  a  model  kitchen.  "Queen  Victoria  w:as  repre 
sented  by  six  water  color  drawings  of  her  own.  Princess 
Christian,  by  two  oil  paintings ;  Princess  Louise,  by  water  color, 
and  Princess  Beatrice,  by  an  oil  painting.  The  priceless  court 
laces  of  France,  Spain  and  other  countries  were  exhibited.  The 
library  was  filled  with  printed  works  by  famous  women.  A 
map  of  Italy  made  by  an  English  woman  in  the  time  of  Dante 
was  a  curiosity.  The  sword  of  Queen  Isabella  with  her  por 
trait  and  some  of  her  jewels  were  among  the  displays. 

Russian  peasants  dressed  in  costum^  were  a  unique  fea 
ture. 

Many  beautiful  articles  of  needlework  made  by  country 
women  of  Spain,  cushions  in  gold  and  lace.  Many  ladies'  so 
cieties  had  beautiful  exhibits.  The  sculpture  work  was  done 
by  Miss  Alice  Rideout  of  San  Francisco. 

The  Woman's  Building  was  said  to  be  the  best  of  its  kind 
in  the  world. 

The  diamond  exhibit  from  South  Africa  displayed  forty 
thousand  diamonds  in  the  rough.  From  Cape  Colony  there 
was  a  collection  of  stuffed  birds  and  animals. 

In  the  Art  Gallery,  Corea  had  a  large  amount  of  fine  pot 
tery. 

The  ladies  of  Denmark  had  a  fine  display  of  embroideries. 


99 

Eygpt  had  a  large  display  of  fancywork. 

Germany  was  well  represented.  One  thing  was  a  salt 
mine  and  the  throne  of  Emperor  William. 

England  was  represented  from  the  art  gallery  to  the  live 
stock  shed. 

Hawaii  had  a  special  feature  of  a  volcano. 

India  was  rich  in  wood  and  ivory  carving. 

Some  of  the  things  I  shall  not  forget  seeing  at  the  fair, 
were  the  large  cheese,  the  weight  was  six  tons;  the  boat  of 
Grace  Darling ;  the  first  passenger  coach  of  the  United  States ; 
the  carriage  of  Daniel  Webster;  the  Viking  ship;  a  very  large 
diamond  exhibited  by  Tiffany  &  Co.,  of  New  York;  Ferris 
Wheel;  a  section  of  rosewood  and  mahogany  logs;  Vienna 
Glass  Works;  the  glass  dress  made  for  Eulala  of  Spain;  the 
great  silver  monument;  a  picture  of  "The  Last  Supper"  in 
silk  embroidery ;  the  farm  home,  in  Illinois  Building,  pictured 
in  grasses  and  grains;  the  Indian  village  and  the  Irish  village. 
I  do  not  fancy  these  things  so  much  as  some.  One  sees  so 
much  that  he  cannot  remember  anything  well.  Traveling  is 
much  more  profitable  and  instructive. 


100 


INSULATOR  SHOE. 

There's  a  pesky  looking  man, 

Wears  fine  clothes  and  shoes  of  tan, 

Calls  the  man  out  from  his  wife, 

And  says,  I  sell  a  thing  to  save  your  life. 

He  talks  of  this  then  of  that, 
Then  off  he  takes  his  new,  straw  hat, 
He  then  attempts  to  scratch  his  head, 
And  probe  it  up  as  if  it  were  lead. 

Did  you  not  hear  at  the  election, 
That  we  have  tariff  for  protection ; 
The  lightning  rod  to  save  our  lives, 
Now  this  is  new,  please  use  your  eyes. 

If  our  beds  were  on  glass  stools, 

We  nevermore  would  be  such  fools, 

And  instead  of  ground,  we  walked  on  glass, 

We  would  belong  to  a  wiser  class. 

There  is  many  a  new  invention, 
I  dare  not  even  to  you  mention, 
But  I  can  not  recommend  to  you, 
A  finer  thing,  than  the  insulator  shoe. 

The  shoe  is  leather,  the  sole  is  glass, 
Or  else  the  thing  would  never  pass, 
The  sole  is  woven  and  will  keep, 
And  then  the  shoe  is  so  very  cheap. 


101 

The  shoe  is  warranted,  it  grows  not  old 
You  buy  two,  one  for  your  wife, 
I'm  quite  sure  she  will  never  scold, 
But  keep  so  sweet  through  all  your  life. 

One  dollar  apiece  is  the  price, 

They  are  fitted  so  even  and  nice, 

Ready  for  any  old  fashioned  boot, 

And  lightning  never  would  strike  your  foot. 

Now  friend  I'll  tell  you  what  I'll  do. 
If  you  will  buy  of  me  this  insulator  shoe, 
If  one  dollar  is  too  much  then  cut  it  in  two. 
I'm  sure  that  bargain  you  will  never  rue. 

Your  feet  will  keep  warm  and  dry  as  toast, 
Such  beautiful  feet,  ladies  all  boast, 
You  will  never  again  have  pain  or  gout, 
And  tomorrow  I  can  take  a  new  route. 


102 


NIAGARA. 


Storey,  Roy  and  I  went  on  an  excursion  to  Niagara,  by 
way  of  the  Big  Four  railroad,  and  our  first  stop  was  at  In 
dianapolis.  We  visited  the  state  house  and  the  old  Harrison 
home.  We  found  the  state  house  an  interesting  place  to  visit. 
Many  relics  of  the  Rebellion,  old  shattered  flags,  and  things 
from  early  Indian  wars.  Relics  from  the  battlefield  of  Tippe- 
canoe.  At  Cleveland  we  took  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan 
Southern  route.  We  viewed  Ashtabula  bridge  where  P.  P. 
Bliss  and  wife  lost  their  lives  in  a  railroad  wreck.  On  our 
way  home  we  saw  their  graves  in  the  -distance.  We  saw  the 
great  white  ships  on  the  lakes.  I  was  much  impressed  with 
Erie,  Pennsylvania.  It  is  rightly  named,  when  called  the 
smoky  city.  And  such  an  amount  of  lumber,  I  never  saw  be 
fore  as  at  Tonawanda,  New  York.  At  last  we  heard  the  roar 
of  the  great  falls  at  Niagara.  One  can  but  stand  awe  struck 
and  look  and  listen,  and  wonder  in  our  hearts  why  God 
should  make  this  wonderful  feature  in  his  beautiful  creation. 
It  is  useless  for  me  or  any  one  to*  attempt  to  describe  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  Niagara.  Go  and  see — 

Words  cannot  tell  its  meaning. 
Pictures  cannot  display  its  beauties. 
Artists  cannot  give  touch  nor  coloring. 

Our  first  look  was  at  the  Great  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  and  then 
the  American  Fall.  I  crossed  the  foot-bridges  to  Three  Sister 
Islands,  I  crossed  the  new  suspension  bridge.  A  fine  mist  from 
the  falls  fell  over  us  smelling  so  pure  and  sweet,  like  new- 
mown  hay  or  crab-apple  blooms.  How  I  should  like  to  view 
the  falls  in  winter,  still  it  might  be  chilly  there  in  winter. 
The  climate  is  delightful  there  in  the  month  of  August.  The 
wonderful  Cantilever  bridge  with  its  fine  passenger  train,  pre- 


103 

sents  to  the  eye  a  view  never  to  be  forgotten.  The  Whirl 
pool  Rapids,  what  a  foaming  surging  mass  of  pale  green 
water,  white  with  foam.  Only  think  of  it,  a  man  to  attempt 
to  swim  them,  or  Andrew  Wallace  ride  his  horse  on  ice 
mountain,  under  the  falls.  Lo,  the  poor  Indian  haunts  me 
still  selling  her  beadwares,  to  white  squaw.  I  chanced  to  meet 
a  family  of  Niagara  Indians.  The  falls  is  their  home.  The 
great  spirit  is  in  the  seething  waters.  In  seeing  these  Indians, 
I  call  to  mind  the  Pequod  nation,  that  captain  Mason  destroyed 
in  a  day.  Of  the  Narragansetts,  and  other  red  men  of  early 
times,  who  are  now  almost  extinct.  The  Maid  of  the  Mist  I  did 
not  care  to  ride  in.  Prospect  Point  is  a  beautiful  place,  from 
which  to  view  the  falls.  I  crossed  the  whirlpool  bridge  but 
did  not  enter  the  cave  of  the  winds.  We  drove  into  Canada, 
after  being  overhauled  by  the  custom  officer,  and  visited  the 
Burning  Spring,  thus  being  in  Queen  Victoria's  dominions. 
This  Burning  Spring,  we  drank  of  the  water  then  lighted  the 
remainder,  and  were  delighted  to  see  it  burn.  The  water 
contains  a  large  amount  of  gas.  We  rode  down  the  inclined 
railway  below  the  falls,  and  were  at  the  landing  of  the  Maid 
of  the  Mist.  Here  we  met  the  New  York  fire  company,  who 
had  come  in  on  one  of  the  nine  excursions,  that  reached  Niagara 
the  same  day.  They  became  very  much  interested  in  us  as 
we  were  from  the  prairie  state.  They  gave  me  their  cards. 
They  were  a  brave  set  of  fellows.  I  admired  them  very  much. 
I  spent  three  days  at  the  falls  and  I  shall  never  think  of  them 
only  as  pleasant  days,  and  interesting  sights.  Many  beautiful 
relics  for  sale.  Much  spar  is  obtained  from  the  cave  of  the 
winds,  from  which  much  beautiful  jewelry  is  made,  and  is  ex 
posed  for  sale.  Our  homeward  trip  was  by  way  of  Columbus, 
Ohio.  Springfield,  Ohio,  is  one  of  the  favorite  spots  of  earth 
in  my  estimation.  It  is  in  a  rich  agricultural  and  fruit  growing 
section  of  country. 


104 


BILTMORE. 

Biltmore,  the  country  seat  of  George  W.  Vanderbilt  near 
Asheville,  North  Carolina,  is  reputed  to  be  the  most  costly  pri 
vate  estate  in  America.  The  house  grounds  comprise  nine 
thousand  acres  of  lawn,  farm  and  forest,  with  thirty  miles  of 
magnificent  roadways,  rustic  bridges,  artificial  lakes,  and  thou 
sands  of  trees,  plants  and  shrubs  brought  from  all  parts  of  the 
world.  The  hunting  reserve  comprises  eighty-seven  acres  or 
more.  The  house  stands  on  a  plateau  of  a  mountain  peak.  It 
overlooks  the  French,  Broad  and  Swannaoa  rivers,  and  com 
mands  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  and  valleys.  There  are 
fifty  peaks  more  than  5,000  feet  high.  The  house  is  built  of 
stone  and  brick  made  on  the  estate;  it  is  300  by  192  feet,  lawns, 
tennis  courts,  conservatories,  sunken  gardens  and  other  feat 
ures.  The  house  was  begun  in  1891  and  was  opened  on 
Christmas  1895.  The  public  are  permitted  to  drive  through 
the  grounds. 


105 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 


I  shall  only  speak  of  the  few  things,  as  a  description  of 
this  place,  its  buildings,  people,  etc.,  would  require  a  volume  of 
itself. 

First  I  shall  mention  some  of  the  places  of  interest  to  the 
tourist.  Most  of  these  are  open  daily  or  a  portion  of  the  day 
except  on  Sundays  and  legal  holidays.  Capitol,  Arlington 
Cemetery,  Arsenal,  Agricultural  Department,  Army  Medical 
Museum,  Botanical  Garden,  Corcoran  Gallery,  Dead  Letter 
Office,  Fish  Commission,  Government  Printing  Office,  Library 
of  Congress,  Halls  of  the  Ancients,  Lincoln  Museum,  Marine 
Barracks,  Mount  Vernon,  National  Museum,  Navy  Depart 
ment,  Navy  Yard,  Patent  Office,  Pension  Bureau,  Postoffice 
Department,  Smithsonian  Institute,  Soldiers'  Home,  State  De 
partment,  War  Department,  Treasury,  Washington  Monu 
ment,  White  House,  Zoological  Park,  and  the  Carlyle  House. 
This  house  was  erected  in  1732.  It  was  at  one  time  head 
quarters  of  General  Braddock.  In  one  room  of  this  house 
Washington  received  his  commission  in  the  army.  Here  a 
council  of  war  was  held  between  General  Braddock  and  five 
governors  together  with  Admiral  Sepple,  Horatio  Gates  and 
Benjamin  Franklin.  This  was  in  1755.  This  mansion  was 
built  of  stone  brought  from  the  Isle  of  Wight,  as  ballast,  on 
a  fort  erected  by  the  early  settlers  to  protect  themselves  from 
the  Indians,  with  an  underground  passage,  connecting  with 
the  river.  This  historic  mansion  is  entirely  surrounded  by  the 
Braddock  house,  the  office  of  which  was  once  used  as  a  sub- 
treasury  of  the  United  States.  Visitors  to  Mount  Vernon 
can  stop  over  at  Alexandria,  leaving  train  at  Royal  street  sta- 


106 

tion,  where  they  will  be  met  by  guides  who  will  conduct  them 
to  the  old  mansion,  which  is  two  blocks  from  the  depot. 

Pennsylvania  avenue  is  the  central  one ;  it  connects  railroad 
depots,  Capitol,  Treasury,  White  House,  and  State  Depart 
ment.  Other  public  buildings  are  but  a  block  or  two  from  it. 
The  city  is  wonderful. 

The  house  once  occupied  by  Francis  Scott  Key,  author  of 
The  Star  Spangled  Banner,  is  in  Georgetown,  near  the  Acque- 
duct  bridge.  Ford's  Theater,  in  which  the  assassination  of 
President  Lincoln  occurred  April  14,  1865.  ^ne  building  is 
now  used  for  public  business,  and  contains  nothing  of  interest. 
Across  the  street  is  the  house  where  Lincoln  died,  contains  a 
collection  of  Lincoln  relics.  The  Congressional  Cemetery 
contains  graves  of  many  noted  men.  On  Oak  Hill  is  the  grave 
of  John  Howard  Payne,  author  of  Home,  Sweet  Home. 
Payne  died  while  United  .States  consul,  at  Tunis,  and  was 
buried  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  ruins  of  Carthage.  In  1882 
his  remains  were  brought  home  to  America  by  William  W. 
Corcoran. 

The  Government  Printing  Office  is  at  North  Capitol  and 
H  streets.  Here  all  the  Daily  Congressional  Records  are 
printed.  Department  Reports.  It  is  the  largest  printing- 
office  in  the  world.  It  takes  two  hours  to  walk  through  it. 
The  Botanical  Garden  is  a  place  of  interest  to  the  pupil.  It 
contains  rare  plants  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  travel 
er's  tree  from  Madagascar,  the  Hottentot  poison  tree  from  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  Jesuit's  Bark  from  South  America, 
and  fine  specimens  from  Sandwich  Islands,  Japan,  Queens 
land,  Sumatra  and  scores  of  other  distant  lands  afford  abund 
ant  interest.  North  of  this  conservatory  is  the  Bartholdi 
Fountain. 


107 

The  Army  Medical  Museum  contains  an  immense  col 
lection  of  subjects  illustrating  various  parts  of  the  human  body 
as  affected  by  wounds  and  disease. 

The  Halls  of  the  Ancients  originated  with  Franklin  W. 
Smith,  the  president  of  the  National  Galleries  Company. 

There  are  two  Egyptian  Halls;  an  Assyrian  Throne 
Room ;  a  Roman  House,  larger  and  more  splendid  than  that  at 
Saratoga;  a  lecture  hall  with  a  painting  50  feet  by  9  feet,  Rome 
in  the  time  of  Constantine,  and  a  hall  of  the  model  of  proposed 
National  Galleries  of  History  and  Art  At  the  front  of  the  hall 
is  a  beautiful  model  of  the  temple  of  Denderah.  Near  this 
are  those  of  Greeks  and  Romans ;  Byzantine  and  Moorish ;  the 
East  Indian  courts.  Each  court  is  surrounded  by  galleries  to 
receive  ancient  paintings.  A  model  of  the  Parthenon  for  a 
memorial  temple  of  Presidents  off  the  United  States,  and  others 
of  the  Thesian  at  Athens.  One  for  a  memorial  temple  of  the 
Sons  of  the  Revolution,  and  another  for  the  Daughters  of  the 
Revolution.  9 

Lincoln  Museum,  the  house  in  which  he  died  contains  the 
Family  Bible  in  which  Lincoln  wrote  his  name  when  a  boy;  log 
from  the  old  Lincoln  home;  stand  made  from  the  logs  of  the 
house  in  which  Lincoln  lived  in  1832;  a  rail  split  by  him  and 
John  Hanks,  in  1830  with  affidavit  by  Hanks;  a  discharge  to 
one  of  his  men  from  the  Black  Hawk  War,  1832,  and  thou 
sands  of  other  relics. 

The  paintings  and  bronze  work,  the  sculptural  work  in 
Congressional  Library  are  indeed  grand.  The  gallery  in  the 
Reading  Room  shows  statues  of  St.  Paul  and  Robert  Fulton. 
There  were  in  the  Library  of  Congress  January  i,  1897,  748,- 
115  books  and  245,000  pamphlets.  The  books  are  sent  to  the 
Capitol  by  a  tunnel  connecting  the  two.  The  tunnel  is  brick, 
in  length  1,275  ^eet  and  4  by  6  feet  interior.  Books  sent  on  trays 


108 

make  the  trip  in  three  minutes.  The  Representatives'  Reading 
Room  is  finished  in  dark  oak  and  green  silk,  very  rich  and  ef 
fective.  The  walls  beautifully  tinted  and  decorated,  the  paint 
ings  in  the  east  hall  tell  the  story  of  "The  Evolution  of  the 
Book."  The  inscriptions  on  the  ceiling  from  the  poets  are 
so  fitting  for  the  places.  Words,  nor  books,  nor  pencils,  nor 
pens  can  describe  the  grandeur  to  be  realized  in  the  Congres 
sional  Library.  One  to  know  what  is  there  must  visit  it  and 
not  be  hurried. 

The  Capitol  is  distinguished  for  its  commanding  situa 
tion,  majestic  proportions,  dignity,  grace  and  beauty  of  design, 
and  the  adornments  without  and  within.  It  overlooks  the 
Potomac  and  is  a  feature  of  the  landscape  for  miles  on  every 
side.  The  building  faces  the  east,  supposing  the  main  growth  of 
the  city  in  that  direction,  but  the  development  has  been  toward 
the  west.  The  Peace  Monument  marks  the  entrance  in  the  west 
grounds.  On  the  east  front  are  three  grand  porticoes  with 
Corinthian  columns,  broad  fljghts  of  marble  steps  lead  up  to 
the  porticoes  from  the  esplanade  on  the  east.  The  central 
building  is  of  Virginia  sandstone,  painted  white;  the  exten 
sions  are  Massachusetts  marble.  The  corner  stone  of  the 
main  building  was  laid  by  President  Washington,  September 
1 8,  1793.  The  crowning  glory  of  the  capitol  building  is  the 
dome.  The  fortunes  of  the  American  Indian  furnish  a  theme 
which  we  find  constantly  recurring  throughout  the  decorations 
of  the  Capitol.  The  marbles  and  bronzes  of  the  rotunda 
portico  are  suggestive  of  the  first  contact  of  the  white  race  and 
the  red.  There  "are  eight  oil  paintings  in  the  rotunda.  They 
are:  The  Landing  of  Columbus,  October  12,  1492;  Discovery 
of  the  Mississippi  by  De  Soto,  1541 ;  The  Baptism  of  Pocahon- 
tas;  Jamestown,  Viginia,  1613;  Embarkation  of  the  Pilgrims 
from  Delft-Haven,  July  21,  1620  and  Declaration  of  Independ 
ence,  Philadelphia,  July  4,  1776. 


109 

The  old  Representative  Hall  is  now  Statuary  Hall  and 
statues  of  all  our  great  men  are  there.  I  can  but  mention 
these  beautiful  mottoes,  beautiful  buildings  in  this  work,  but  I 
may  write  another  on  the  city  itself. 

The  White  House  is  on  Pennsylvania  avenue.  It  is  very 
becoming  as  the  home  of  the  President  of  the  United  States. 
Two  fine  paintings  which  adorn  the  White  House  is  that  of 
George  Washington  and  Martha  Washington.  The  dress  of 
Martha  Washington  was  made  in  Paris.  It  was  worn  at  the 
Martha  Washington  Centennial  Tea-party  in  Philadelphia,  in 
1876.  Mrs.  Tyler's  and  Polk's  pictures  by  the  Ladies'  Ten 
nessee  Club,  and  Mrs.  Hayes'  by  Woman's  Christian  Temper 
ance  Union  in  recognition  of  her  dispensing  with  wine  at  the 
State  dinners.  In  this  blue  room,  oval  in  shape,  is  decorated 
in  light  blue  and  gold.  The  mantel  clock  hangs  in  the  blue 
room  which  was  presented  by  Napoleon  I  to  Lafayette  and  by 
him  to  Washington. 

In  the  family  sitting  room  the  walls  and  decorations  are 
in  red.  Here  are  portraits  of  many  of  the  presidents. 

Beyond  the  red  room  is  the  State  dining  room,  which 
is  decorated  in  the  colonial  style  of  yellow.  Here  are  the  din 
ners  to  the  cabinet,  diplomatic  corps,  and  justices  of  the  su 
preme  court.  The  china,  silver,  cut  glass  were  designed  espe 
cially  for  the  White  House.  The  china,  numbering  one  thousand 
five  hundred  pieces  was  selected  by  Mrs.  Hayes,  and  decorated 
by  Theodore  R.  Davis,  the  artist,  with  exquisite  paintings  of 
American  flowers,  fruit,  game,  birds  and  fish.  Each  of  the 
five  hundred  and  twenty  pieces  of  cut  glass  are  engraved  with 
the  arms  of  the  United  States.  The  family  dining  room  is 
opposite.  A  massive  oak  table  in  the  President's  room  has  a 
history.  It  was  made  from  the  timbers  of  Her  Majesty's 
Ship,  Resolute. 


110 

Sir  John  Franklin's  expedition  was  east  away  in  the 
Arctic  in  1846,  and  the  long  continued  search  for  him  engaged 
the  sympathy  of  the  civilized  world.  Among  the  ships  sent 
in  the  search  was  the  Resolute  sent  out  by  Queen  Victoria. 
This  ship  with  the  rest  of  the  fleet  was  abandoned  in  the  ice  in 
May,  1854. 

In  September,  the  same  year  she  was  sighted  by  an  Ameri 
can  whaler,  brought  into  an  American  port,  and  was  presented 
by  United  States  to  England. 

This  table  made  from  the  timbers  of  this  ship  was  pre 
sented  in  1 88 1,  by  Queen  Victoria  to  President  of  the 
United  States. 

•'"The  White  House  is  constructed  of  Virginia  freestone. 
It  was  the  first  public  building  erected  at  the  new  seat  of  gov 
ernment.  Washington  selected  the  site,  laid  the  corner  stone, 
October  13,  1792,  and  lived  to  see  the  building  completed. 
John  Adams  was  the  first  occupant  in  1800.  In  1814,  it  was 
fired  by  marauding  British  troops  and  only  the  walls  were  left 
standing.  With  the  restoration  the  stone  was  painted  white 
to  obliterate  the  effects  of  the  fire,  and  thus  it  is  called  the 
White  House.  In  front  of  the  White  House  is  Lafayette 
square.  On  one  side  is  the  Treasury;  and  on  the  other  the 
State,  War  and  Navy  Buildings.  The  house  is  set  amid  the 
President's  grounds,  with  flower  beds,  fountains  and  sloping 
lawns.  The  grounds  merge  into  the  Mall,  and  stretch  away 
to  the  monument  and  Potomac.  To  the  slopes  south  of  the 
house,  the  Washington  children  assemble  for  the  famous  egg 
rolling  on  Easter  Sunday.  My  niece,  Sarah  M.  Price,  at 
tended  the  egg  rolling  on  Easter,  — ,  1900,  President  McKin- 
ley  enjoying  the  fun. 

The  Lafayette  Square  is  adorned  by  a  monument.  It  is 
a  work  of  French  artists.  He  is  lepresented  in  the  uniform 


Ill 

of  the  Continental  Army.  America  extends  to  him  a  sword. 
There  are  other  figures  in  the  group,  Rochambeau,  Duportail, 
D'Estaing  and  De  Grasse. 

The  Marquis  de  Lafayette,  offered  his  services  to  the 
Americans  in  1777,  was  commissioned  major-general,  and 
served  throughout  the  war.  He  took  part  in  the  battles  of 
Brandy  wine,  Monmouth  and  Yorktown.  In  1824,  he  re 
visited  America,  and  was  given  a  continuous  ovation  by  the 
twenty-four  states.  In  the  center  of  the.  square  is  an  eques 
trian  statue  of  General  Jackson,  as  the  hero  of  the  battle  of 
New  Orleans.  The  bronze  was  cast  from  cannon  cap 
tured  in  Jackson's  campaigns.  St.  John's  church  on  the  north 
side  of  the  square  was  built  in  1816.  One  of  its  pews  is  set 
apart  for  the  President. 

Second  only  to  the  Capitol,  is  the  Treasury  Building  of 
architectural  importance.  President  Jackson  became  impatient 
in  choosing  the  site  and  put  down  his  cane  and  said,  "Let  it 
be  there,"  and  there  it  is.  The  daily  transactions  in  the  Treas 
ury  run  into  millions  of  dollars.  The  system  of  making  new 
money,  exchanging  new  for  old,  is  what  one  sees  at  the  Treas 
ury.  The  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing  is  where  the 
paper  money  and  postage  stamps  are  made,  but  the  actual  work 
of  the  plates  is  not  shown.  The  paper  money  is  made  of  a  silk 
fibered  paper,  made  at  the  Crane  Mills,  Dalton,  Massachusetts. 
No  other  mill  is  allowed  to  make  the  same  kind  of  paper.  This 
mill  is  not  allowed  to  sell  paper  to  any  party,  except  the  proper 
government  officials.  In  the  redemption  division  there  is  an 
average  of  one  million  dollars  a  day  handled. 

These  handlers  of  worn  out  and  chewed  bills  are  all 
women,  being  much  better  than  men  in  deciphering  these  old 
bills. 

The  Treasury  is  guarded  by  a  force  of  sixty-eight  watch 
men.  Arms  are  stored  in  manv  of  the  rooms  where  much 


112 

money  is  handled;  with  these  the  captain  of  the  watch  could 
instantly  arm  a  thousand  men.  One  of  the  doors  of 
the  vault  is  a  solid  sliding  door  of  six  tons.  There  is  now 
$250,000,000  in  the  United  States  Treasury. 

Objects  of  interest  are  exhibited  in  the  State  Library. 
The  sword  of  Washington.  It  is  in  a  black  leather  case  with 
silver  mountings.  The  handle  is  ivory,  pale  green,  wound 
with  silver  wire.  The  belt  of  white  leather  has  silver  mount 
ings.  This  was  one  of  the  four  swords  given  to  the  nephews 
of  Washington.  It  was  chosen  by  Samuel  Washington,  and 
presented  by  his  son  to  Congress,  in  1843.  The  staff  of 
Franklin.  He  said:  "My  fine  crab  tree  walking  stick;  with 
a  gold  head  curiously  wrought  in  the  form  of  a  cap  of  liberty, 
I  give  to  my  friend,  and  the  friend  of  mankind,  George  Wash 
ington.  If  it  were  a  scepter  he  has  merited  it.  It  was  a 
present  to  me  from  Madame  DeForbach,  the  dowager  duchess 
of  Deauxponts."  There  are  also  buttons  there  from  Frank 
lin's  dress  coat.  Thomas  Jefferson's  desk  on  which  he  wrote 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  Washington's  eye-glasses, 
given  him  by  Lafayette  and  presented  to  United  States  by  his 
great-grandson,  Count  Octave  Assailly.  A  whale's/ tooth 
presented  to  United  States  as  a  treaty  from  the  King  of  Fiji 
Islands.  Obus  (explosive  shell)  from  the  Paris  commune  of 
1871.  A  thousand  things  I  cannot  remember. 

In  the  Patent  Office  are  four  halls  full  of  models.  Some 
of  these  models  have  become  relics  and  are  now  placed  in  the 
National  Museum. 

The  Pension  Office  is  a  great  business  place.  There  are 
two  thousand  clerks  employed  here,  and  among  them  many  an 
armless  sleeve. 

The  Dead  Letter  Office  is  an  interesting  place.  Clerks 
seated  on  long  tables  receive  these  letters  in  bundles  of  one 


113 

hundred  each,  and  with  the  stroke  of  a  knife  they  are  opened 
and  contents  examined.  If  money  or  anything  of  value  is 
found  a  careful  record  of  it  is  made  on  the  envelope  into  which 
the  letter  and  inclosure  are  returned.  When  it  is  possible  to 
find  out  from  the  inside  where  the  letter  is  from  it  is  either  for 
warded  to  the  qne  to  whom  it  is  sent  or  returned  to  the  writer. 
Some  eighteen  thousand  of  these  letters  are  handled  in  one 
day.  The  amount  of  money  found  in  them  will  average  $50,- 
ooo  a  year — checks,  drafts,  money  orders,  a  million  more.  This 
mail  matter  is  of  several  kinds,  some  wrongly  addressed. 
Thirty  thousand  a  year  without  any  address.  Some  properly 
addressed  but  no  postage.  I  note  at  random.  Many  articles 
are  found  at  Dead  Letter  Office;  horns  of  animals,  combusti 
bles  and  explosives  from  firecrackers  to  cartridges  of  large 
size,  deeds  of  land,  hack  drivers'  licenses,  false  teeth,  horned 
toads,  tarantulas,  bottles  of  consumption  cure,  five  boxes  Ayers 
pills,  loaded  pistol  addressed  to  a  woman,  ears  of  corn,  garden 
seed,  musical  instruments,  toys  of  all  kinds,  salad  oil,  lockets, 
German  syrup,  cod  liver  oil,  embroideries,  stamped  linens, 
safety  pins,  hatchets,  alligators,  snakes  in  glass  jars,  bug  and 
insect  killers,  valentines,  Indian  scalps,  fungi,  Chinese  curios, 
canvas  needles,  gloves,  forty  thousand  photographs  go  astray 
in  the  mails  every  year,  and  are  received  at  the  Dead  Letter 
Office. 

The  museum  at  the  navy  yard  is  shaded  by  a  willow  tree 
which  was  grown  from  a  slip  from  a  tree  over  the  grave  of 
Napolean  on  St.  Helena.  The  museum  contains  relics  of  war, 
and  different  kinds  of  shells,  projectiles  and  ordinance. 

The  Smithsonian  Institute  and  National  Museum  are  both 
places  of  great  interest.  There  are  over  3,000,000  objects  in 
the  museum.  The  historical  collection  of  the  museum  contains 
personal  relics,  mementoes  and  memorials  of  most  of  the 


114 

Presidents  of  the  United  States.  The  uniform  of  Washington 
is  here,  also  the  tent  he  used  in  the  Revolution ;  General  Grant's 
sword  used  at  Fort  Donelson;  the  New  York  sword  voted  by 
Sanitary  Fair  in  1864.  In  the  Mall  one  can  find  the  silk  worm 
spinning  silk  shown  in  all  stages ;  cotton,  flax,  hemp. 

The  Corcoran  Gallery  contains  the  fin^t  collection  of 
sculpture  in  America. 

The  Washington  monument  is  a  shaft  of  white  marble. 
Go  where  you  will  it  is  seen  from  every  point.  It  has  a  new 
appearance  for  each  hour  of  the  day.  It  is  an  oblisk.  The 
facing  of  pure  white  marble.  The  monument  is  the  highest 
piece  of  masonry  in  the  world.  It  is  five  hundred  and  fifty-five 
feet  and  five  and  one-eighth  inches  high.  Winthrop  said  at 
the  laying  of  the  corner  stone:  "Lay  the  corner  stone  of  a 
monument  which  shall  adequately  bespeak  the  gratitude  of  the 
whole  American  people  to  the  illustrious  'Father  of  his  Coun 
try.'  Build  it  to  the  skies;  you  cannot  outreach  the  loftiness  of 
its  principles.  Found  it  upon  the  massive  and  eternal  rock ;  you 
cannot  make  it  more  enduring  than  his  fame.  Construct  it 
out  of  the  peerless  Parian  marble,  you  cannot  make  it  purer 
than  his  life.  Exhaust  upon  it  the  rules  and  principles  of 
ancient  and  modern  art ;  you  cannot  make  it  more  proportion 
ate  than  his  character."  The  cost  of  this  monument  was  $i,- 
300,000.  There  are  so  many  monuments :  One  to  Garfield, 
and  one  to  Martin  Luther,  General  Scott,  the  Peace  Monu 
ment,  and  George  Washington  on  his  horse  as  he  appeared  at 
the  battle  of  Princeton. 

The  Soldiers'  Home  is  a  place  of  interest.  It  is  beauti 
fully  situated.  The  grounds  comprise  five  hundred  and  twelve 
acres. 

At  Arlington  Cemetery  sleep  16,000  soldiers,  who  died 
in  the  war  for  the  Union.  It  is  consecrated  ground,  to  which 


115 

thousands  come  every  year,  from  the  north  and  the  south,  the 
east  and  the  west,  to  honor  those  who  gave  their  lives,  that  the 
Union  might  survive.  The  gates  are  named  Scott,  Lincoln, 
Stanton,  Grant  and  McClellan.  The  house  is  occupied  by  the 
keeper  of  the  grounds.  The  mansion  stands  on  the  brow  of 
the  hill,  whose  slope  stretches  away  to  the  Potomac  two  hun 
dred  feet  below.  When  Lafayette  was  a  guest  at  Arlington 
House,  he  pronounced  the  view  from  the  porch,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  he  had  ever  looked  upon.  Most  of  the  graves 
at  Arlington  are  on  the  plateau  toward  the  Fort  Myer  Reserva 
tion.  Two  thousand  one  hundred  and  eleven  nameless  soldiers 
are  gathered  in  one  common  grave.  Arlington  House  was 
built  in  1802.  The  builder  wras  George  Washington  Parke 
Custis,  son  of  John  Parke  Custis,  whose  widowed  mother  be 
came  Mrs.  Martha  Washington.  When  Colonel  John  Parke 
Custis  died  at  the  siege  of  Yorktown,  Washington  adopted  as 
his  own  the  two  children,  George  Washington  Parke  Custis 
and  Eleanor  Parke  Custis.  After  the  death  of  Mrs.  Wash 
ington  in  1802,  he  removed  to  his  Arlington  estate.  He  drew 
hosts  of  friends  and  visitors  to  Arlington.  Lafayette  was  one 
of  the  distinguished  visitors.  Upon  the  death  of  Custis,  Ar 
lington  passed  to  the  children  of  his  only  daughter,  wife  of 
Colonel  Robert  E.  Lee,  of  the  United  States  army.  When  the 
Civil  W7ar  came  Colonel  Lee  resigned  from  the  Federal  ser 
vice;  on  April  22,  1861,  he  left  Arlington,  and  with  his  family 
went  to  Richmond,  there  to  take  command  of  Virginia  troops, 
and  afterward  to  become  commander-in-chief  of  the  Con 
federate  Army.  The  Federal  troops  took  possession  of  Ar 
lington;  a  hospital  was  established  there  and  a  cemetery  being 
needed  it  was  used.  The  first  grave  was  a  Confederate  soldier, 
who  had  died  a  prisoner.  George  Washington  Custis  Lee 
was  paid  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  for  his  title. 


116 
MOUNT  VERNON. 


In  the  banquet  hall  is  the  mantel  piece  of  Carrara  and 
Siena  marble  carved  in  Italy  and  presented  to  Washington  by 
Samuel  Vaughan,  of  London. 

The  vessel  on  which  this  mantel  was  shipped  was  captured 
by  French  pirates,  who  sent  it  to  its  destination  when  they 
found  it  belonged  to  Washington. 

In  the  dining  room  is  a  sideboard  used  by  Martha  Wash 
ington  and  presented  by  Mrs.  Robert  E.  Lee.  In  the  banquet 
hall  is  Washington's  punch  bowl.  In  one  of  the  window 
panes,  one  of  Mrs.  Washington's  grandchildren  cut  her  name 
with  a  diamond  and  the  date  August  2,  1792,  and  it  now  re 
mains.  No  cooking  in  the  kitchen  but  the  fire-place  and  great 
brick  oven  are  ready.  The  old  hominy  mortar  is  in  the  su 
perintendent's  room.  The  outbuildings  comprise  a  butler's 
house,  wash  house,  ice  house,  meat  house,  spinning  house  and 
green  house.  Above  the  door  of  the  tomb  of  Washington  are 
the  words :  "I  am  the  Resurrection  and  the  Life.  He  that 
believeth  in  Me,  though  he  were  dead  yet  shall  he  live."  There 
are  three  trees  of  interest  near  the  tomb,  an  elm  planted  by  Dom 
Pedro,  Emperor  of  Brazil  in  1876: 

Mount  Vernon  is  on  the  Virginia  shore  of  the  Potomac. 
It  is  sixteen  miles  south  of  Washington. 

The  Mansion  House  of  Mount  Vernon  occupies  a  beau 
tiful  sight  overlooking  the  river ;  in  the  rear  are  lawns,  orchards 
and  gardens.  In  front  of  the  house  are  shaded  lawns  and  a 
deer  park  below.  The  main  hall  of  the  house  extends  from 
front  to  back.  The  six  rooms  on  first  floor  are  the  banquet 
room,  music  room,  west  parlor,  family  dining  room,  Mrs. 
Washington's  sitting  room  and  the  library.  This  house  was 
built  by  Lawrence,  half  brother  of  George  Washington.  On 


117 

the  death  of  Lawrence  and  his  only  daughter,  Washington 
inherited  the  estate.  He  came  to  live  here  soon  after  his 
marriage  in  1759.  He  conducted  his  farm  until  called  to  the 
field.  To  Mount  Vernon  he  returned  after  the  siege  of  York- 
town,  and  again  after  his  terrn  as  President.  This  estate 
was  bought  by  Ladies  Mt.  Vernon  Association  for  $200,000: 
Edward  Everette  gave  $69,000  as  a  personal  con 
tribution;  Washington  Irving  gave  $500,  and  many 
school  children  gave  five  cents.  Several  of  the  states 
have  different  rooms  in  keeping.  Alabama,  main  hall;  Illinois, 
the  west  parlor ;  Virginia,  the  room  in  which  Washington  died. 
A  maple  tree  planted  in  1881  by  the  Temperance  Ladies 
of  America,  and  a  British  oak  planted  by  request  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales,  in  1889,  to  replace  a  horse  chestnut  planted  by  him 
in  1860.  Near  the  butler's  house  is  a  magnolia  which  was 
bought  and  planted  by  Washington  the  last  year  of  his  life. 
It  was  brought  from  the  James  river  in  1 709. 


118 


GEORGE  WASHINGTON. 

Trundling  a  wagon,  with  a  heavy  load, 
Or  galloping  a  horse  over  a  beautiful  road, 
His  stirrup  all  bright,  his  spur  all  steel, 
He  never  dreamed  of  a  tandem  wheel. 

He  amused  himself  with  bat  and  ball, 
And  often  wore  an  old  crumpled  hat, 
He  liked  to  chop  with  his  little  hatchet, 
But  one  day  got  into  a  terrible  racket. 

The  tree  he  had  chopped  was  a  favorite  cherry, 
The  tree  had  long  made  his  old  father  merry, 
He  now  came  around  and  looked  so  wry, 
George  cried  at  once,  "I  will  never  tell  a  lie." 

No  button  to  press  when  he  wanted  light, 
A  grease  oil  lamp  was  then  a  delight, 
Not  even  a  match  for  the  child  to  scratch, 
And  on  the  door  an  old  fashioned  latch. 

Not  a  postage  stamp  for  the  boy  to  lick, 

But  the  very  thought  would  have  made  him  sick. 

An  old  red  seal  made  his  letters  stick, 

And  they  could  not  be  opened  so  very  quick. 

And  when  a  message  he  wanted  to  send, 
To  his  best  girl  or  off  to  a  friend, 
He  did  not  wait  for  wire  or  end  of  a  string, 
He  might  get  left  with  such  a  fool  thing. 


119 

He  simply  walked  down  to  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
Caught  an  old  goose  and  pulled  out  a  quill, 
A  very  fine  letter  he  often  wrote, 
But  poetry  he  was  no  hand  to  quote. 

No  electric  motor  for  him  to  ride  on, 
No  heated  balloon  to  come  tumbling  down, 
When  his  mother  wanted  fire,  she  gave  a  hint, 
He  got  out  his  knife  and  picked  up  a  flint. 

No  carriage  without  horses  then  did  go, 
No  machinery  with  which  to  reap  or  mow, 
To  do  without  these  and  no  electric  fan, 
It  requires  a  wonderfully  constituted  man. 

We  have  all  these,  a  thousand  things  more, 

But  the  brain  of  George  Washington  is  not  in  store 

Higher  education  or  Buffalo  show, 

But  the  man  with  the  brain  is  nearly  all  blow. 

We  have  great  men,  one  Admiral  Dewey, 
But  men  like  Washington  are  scarce  and  fewey. 
He  did  as  much  as  others  and  made  no  mistakes, 
Others  do  great  things  and  they  make  great  breaks. 

AMANDA  E.  MILLER  BATES. 
Normal, 111.,  February  22,  1900. 


120 
INDIANS. 

ROYALTY  AT  THE  PARIS  EXPOSITION. 


Away  up  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Wisconsin,  near  Black 
River  Falls,  an  old  man  with  a  wrinkled,  copper  colored  face 
sits  on  the  ground  in  the  center  of  a  wigwam.  His  legs  are 
drawn  beneath  him  like  a  tailor's.  There  are  streaks  of  red, 
yellow  and  blue  paint  on  his  forehead,  cheeks  and  chin.  His 
little  black  eyes  shine  like  the  eyes  of  a  snake.  In  his  hair  are 
eagle  feathers,  bright  beads  and  bits  of  ribbons.  His  body  sways 
backward  and  forward,  at  times  almost  touching  the  earth, 
He  shakes  with  his  hands,  a  gourd  filled  with  jingling  things 
that  beat  a  monotonous  measure,  to  the  weird  incantation  that 
he  mumbles.  He  is  the  medicine-man  of  the  Winnebago  In 
dians,  and  he  is  making  medicine  to  protect  the  royal  line  of 
chiefs  and  princesses  of  his  tribe,  from  the  bad  spirits  of  the 
water  that  they  will  encounter  on  their  journey  across  the 
ocean  to  the  Paris  exposition.  They  will  sail  this  month  of 
March,  so  the  medicine  men  of  the  Sioux,  Chippewas,  the  Pot- 
tawatomies,  Tuscaroras,  Cheyennes,  Navajos,  and  Apaches  are 
making  medicine  in  their  wigwams,  for  many  of  the  tribe  will 
go  to  the  strange  land  of  the  Frenchman.  These  Indians  hesi 
tate  to  take  this  trip,  although  all  expenses  will  be  paid  and  they 
will  receive  good  salaries  besides.  They  fear  the  evil  spirits 
in  the  great  ocean,  being  stronger  in  water,  than  on  land.  But 
probably,  the  most  potent  factor  in  inducing  the  Indian  chiefs 
and  princesses  to  make  this  great  journey  across  the  water  is 
the  confidence  they  have  in  a  white  man  who  brought  peace  to 
some  of  their  tribes,  after  a  long  and  bloody  war  of  forty  years, 
and  who,  upon  the  death  of  Black  Hawk,  united  the  terrible  fac 
tions  of  the  Winnebagoes,  and  was  selected  by  them  as  their 


121 

chief.  They  first  called  him  Brave  Man,  but  when  they  chose 
him  leader,  they  named  him,  in  our  language  White  Buffalo, 
which  is  the  name  of  the  greatest  honor  which  they  have.  White 
Buffalo  is  known  in  Peoria,  Illinois,  where  he  was  born,  as 
Thomas  R.  Roddy,  but  he  has  lived  with  the  red  men  for  so 
many  years  that  they  all  regard  him  as  their  brother. 

He  took  them  to  the  Chicago  World's  Fair  and  led  them 
safely  back  to  their  wigwams  on  the  reservation.  So,  in  spite 
of  their  fears,  they  have  consented  to  go  to  Paris  with  him, 
and  are  looking  forward  to  their  sojourn  in  Paris  with  antici 
pations  of  pleasure.  The  North  American  Indian  will  be  ap 
preciated  in  Paris.  The  Indian  is  not  a  tiller  of  the  soil,  nor 
never  will  be.  He  is  an  artificer,  a  handworker  of  marvelous 
skill  and  ingenuity,  with  nothing  but  rude  tools  fashioned  by 
himself,  he  carves  wonderful  things  from  bone  and  ivory,  and 
by  a  gentle  touch  he  makes  jewelry  from  silver  and  gold.  He 
has  the  eye  and  skill  of  a  mechanic.  He  would  make  a  good 
carpenter,  or  wood  carver.  The  Indian  women  are  proficient 
in  the  use  of  the  needle.  Their  sewing  cannot  be  excelled  by 
that  of  civilized  nations.  Their  bead  work  shows  a  genius  of 
patience  and  skill.  Their  weaving  of  cloth  and  blankets  by 
hand  from  the  raw  material  shows  remarkable  ingenuity.  His 
every  word  is  poetry.  Read  the  speech  of  Logan,  the  chief  of 
the  Mingoes. 

Fifty  Indians  are  selected  from  various  tribes  to  go  to 
Paris.  They  will  be  members  of  the  royal  families,  persons  of 
high  rank.  The  Winnebagoes  are  the  strongest  mentally  of 
all  the  Indians;  the  Sioux,  the  most  perfectly  formed  people, 
the  men  are  athletes,  the  women  beautiful ;  the  Apaches,  the 
most  savage  fighters  and  the  most  treacherous,  whom  General 
Miles  named  human  tigers. 

Such  a  celebrated  group  as  these,  for  Paris  exposition  have 
never  before  been  grouped  together.  Their  ancestry  traces 


122 

back  many  years,  and  they  are  as  proud  of  their  forefathers, 
as  Queen  Victoria  is  of  her's.  The  Princess  Neola,  who  with 
her  daughter  will  sail  this  march,  is  royal  descent.  A  Winne- 
bago  princess,  her  mother  a  Tuscarora,  a  sister  to  Mount  Pleas 
ant,  head  chief  of  the  Iroquois.  She  was  niece  of  General  Ely 
S.  Parker,  a  full  blood  Seneca  Indian,  who  was  General  Grant's 
military  secretary  during^the  Civil  War,  and  afterward  Com 
missioner  of  Indian  Affairs.  Neola  was  educated  at  Thomas 
Institute,  New  York,  and  is  a  woman  of  rare  ability.  She  speaks 
English,  German,  Winnebago,  Seneca,  Tuscarora,  and  plays 
twelve  different  musical  instruments.  She  has  traveled  through 
New  and  Old  Mexico  and  visited  all  the  large  cities  of  the 
United  States  from  the  Pacific  coast  to  the  east.  Her  name 
among  the  Winnebagoes  is  Sunbeam.  She  is  married  to  a 
white  man,  George  D.  Fuerst,  who  has  been  with  the  Indians 
since  boyhood.  Her  third  daughter,  who  is  four  years  old 
will  accompany  her  to  Paris.  Her  name  is  Shur-a-winka; 
which  in  English  means  a  money  girl.  Two  noted  grand 
daughters  of  Black  Hawk,  Blue  Wing  and  Feather  Wing,  will 
go  to  Paris.  I  well  remember  many  stories  of  the  Black  Hawk 
War.  It  was  just  at  the  close  of  the  war  that  my  grandfather  set 
tled  in  Peoria  county,  Illinois.  I  have  made  the  Indian  a  study.  I 
saw  White  Buffalo  and  Neola  at  World's  Fair.  I  too  saw  old 
Rain  in  the  Face.  He  was  the  largest  man  I  ever  saw.  Another 
fierce  old  chief  who  will  cross  the  water  is  Whirling  Thunder. 
He  is  getting  old  now,  and  rather  subdued.  He  was  second  in 
command  at  the  time  of  the  Custer  Massacre.  I  was  in  Cali 
fornia  at  the  time  General  Custer's  wife,  received  the  sad  news 
of  General  Custer's  death.  She  was  at  a  hotel  in  San  Fran 
cisco  at  the  time.  Little  Bear  is  the  best  horseman  of  the 
Sioux.  He  is  a  terrible  fighter,  and  is  called  the  Soldier  Killer. 
He  was  sentenced  to  hang,  for  being  in  the  great  massacre  in 


123 

Minnesota  in  1863  of  which  Little  Crow  was  leader,  when 
seven  hundred  men,  women  and  children  were  killed.  Three 
hundred  Indians  were  sentenced  to  be  hanged,  but  President 
Lincoln  commuted  the  sentences  of  all  by  thirty-nine  to  im 
prisonment  for  ten  years.  These  thirty-nine  were  executed 
at  Mankato,  Minnesota.  Soldier  Killer,  was  sent  to  prison, 
but  was  pardoned  in  four  years.  He  is  now  seventy-five  years 
old,  wrinkled  and  bent.  Lone  Tree  is  one  of  the  finest  dancers 
of  the  Sioux.  He  is  an  Indian  of  the  old  school  who  does  not 
believe  in  advancement.  He  detests  the  clothes  of  civilization, 
and  likes  the  nakedness  and  feathers  of  a  century  ago.  Besides 
these  there  will  be  many  well  known  among  their  tribes. 
There  will  be  Green  Hay,  a  brother-in-law  of  George 
Fuerst,  peaceful  and  thoughtful.  There  will  be  White  Dog 
and  Standing  Bear  and  Black  Spirit,  stubborn  and  always 
against  the  thing  that  is.  And  there  will  be  Little  Wolf,  one 
of  Geronimo's  band,  that  chased  back  and  forth  across  the  bor 
der  into  Mexico  and  for  eighteen  years  eluded  the  soldiers. 
The  Indian  village  at  Paris  will  occupy  a  space  of  two  hundred 
by  one  hundred  feet.  It  will  represent  the  Indian  at  home  on 
his  reservation.  There  will  be  seen  the  wigwams  of  skins  and 
cat-tail  rushes.  The  squaws  will  prepare  the  food  in  their  own 
utensils.  They  will  pound  the  corn  in  the  wooden  mortar  and 
cook  their  stews  in  the  big  kettles.  The  women  of  rank  will 
be  adorned  with  ear-rings,  and  different  jewels.  The  ghost 
dance  and  the  marriage  dance  will  be  performed.  There  will 
be  tests  of  horsemanship  and  with  the  rifle.  The  chief  of  the 
medicine-men  will  sit  in  his  wigwam  in  Paris  making  medi 
cine  for  the  safe  return  of  his  tribe  to  America.  I  have  seen 
the  blanket  of  the  Navajos  in  the  hand  loom.  I  have  visited 
the  snake,  or  digger  Indian  in  his  wigwam,  also  the  Walapai. 
Have  visited  the  Indian  school  at  Jubilee,  Illinois,  and  Phoenix, 


124 

Arizona.  The  snake  dance  is  interesting  to  some  people,  but 
I  think  it  hideous.  They  carry  snakes  in  their  hands  turning, 
twisting,  wriggling  them  in  all  shapes.  The  Indian  is  a 
changeable  creature.  A  story  of  my  childhood  comes  to  mind, 
which  was  often  repeated  by  my  mother.  My  mother's  first 
husband's  name  was  John  Estep,  his  only  son  lives  near  Dun 
can,  Stark  county,  Illinois.  James  M.  Estep,  by  name.  When 
she  was  first  married  her  husband  decided  to  settle  in  Iowa. 
Their  home  was  near  the  then  village  of  Ottumwa.  There 
were  many  Indians  there,  only  two  white  families,  by  name  of 
Estep  and  Morgan.  It  was  twenty  miles  to  a  flouring  mill. 
The  Morgan  family  consisted  of  father,  mother,  a  grown  son 
and  a  daughter  sixteen  years  of  age,  whose  name  was  Mary, 
whose  hair  was  red,  the  Indians  calling  her  red  squaw,  and  no 
good.  The  Estep  family  consisted  of  my  mother  and  her 
husband  and  her  two  children,  a  girl  of  five  years  and  James 
of  two  years.  Mr.  Morgan  and  Mr.  Estep  decided  to  take 
some  wheat  to  mill,  and  as  it  took  several  days  to  make  the 
trip,  Mary  Morgan  came  to  stay  with  my  mother,  as  she  did 
not  like  to  stay  alone  with  the  children.  The  Indians  had 
been  friendly,  and  two  Indian  men  called,  they  had  something 
under  their  blankets.  They  acted  so  curious  the  women  were 
afraid.  When  the  Indians  took  out  a  large  knife,  then  motion 
ing  to  the  other  to  remove  his  blanket,  when  he  took  out  a 
screech  owl,  cut  off  its  toes,  gave  it  to  the  children  to  play  with, 
which  calmed  their  fears. 

Tom  Thunder,  son  of  John  Thunder,  the  big  medicine 
man  of  the  Winnebago  tribe  of  Wisconsin,  has  proclaimed 
himself  chief  of  the  tribe,  dating  his  ascension  to  the  chieftain 
ship  January  i,  1900.  Tom  Thunder  is  thirty  years  of  age 
and  is  far  above  the  average  member  of  the  tribe  in  general 
intelligence.  He  says  White  Buffalo,  is  a  Chicago  Irishman, 


125 

who  was  made  chief  by  the  will  of  the  former  leader,  is  only 
a  show  chief,  while  he  is  the  simon  pure  chief  of  the  tribe,  and 
will  see  that  he  is  respected  in  his  high  office.  He  intends  that 
White  Buffalo  will  not  be  tolerated,  should  he  attempt  to  carry 
out  the  advertised  coronation  to  take  place  when  the  dandelions 
are  in  bloom.  Tom  Thunder  says  he  is  willing  to  settle  the 
question  in  accordance  with  tribe  customs  and  an  appeal  to  the 
tomahawk  will  be  made.  He  says  let  "White  Buffalo  put  up 
or  shut  up." 


126 


ZACHEUS. 


It  was  on  a  beautiful  sunny  day, 

In  the  land  of  Palestine  far  away, 

That  Zacheus  climbed  up  into  a  tree, 

When  Jesus  was  passing,  whom  he  wished  to  see. 

The  multitude  pressing  was  very  great, 
So  Zacheus  thought  that  he  would  wait, 
He  feared  a  stampede  he  was  so  small, 
He  then  spied  a  sycamore  leafy  and  tall. 

In  the  branches  he  then  did  hide, 
And  looked  on  the  multitude  in  glory  and  pride, 
That  he  was  above  them  and  Jesus  could  see, 
And  none  could  see  him  so  thought  he. 

Now  Jesus  spied  him  on  a  limb, 

And  said  "Zacheus,  come  down  among  the  rest, 

And  I  will  go  and  stay  with  you, 

And  for  awhile  will  be  your  guest." 

Then  Zacheus  came  down  at  last, 
Along  the  road  with  Jesus  walked, 
And  as  those  rustic  scenes  they  passed, 
They  of  God  and  His  Kingdom  talked. 

Then  Zacheus  his  sins  confessed, 

Gave  harf  he  had  unto  the  poor, 

And  then  he  felt  that  he  was  blest, 

More  than  he  had  ever  been  before. 

June  n,    1900.  AMANDA  E.  BATES. 


127 


ATTICA,  INDIANA,  LITHIA  SPRINGS  HOTEL 

The  Wabash  river,  at  this  place  is  very  interesting,  not  so 
very  far  from  here  the  Tippecanoe  battle  ground  and  then  I 
remember  the  beautiful  song. 

"On  the  Banks  of  the  Wabash." 

The  writer  of  this  song  still  lives  not  far  from  Attica. 
The  river  is  spanned  by  three  beautiful  bridges,  and  the  banks 
are  covered  with  vines  and  trees,  the  sycamore,  sassafras, 
sumac,  being  quite  prominent.  The  scenery  along  the  river 
is  very  romantic,  and  Williamsport  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river  is  a  romantic  place. 

There  are  several  hotels  in  Attica,  but  the  Lithia  Springs 
hotel  seems  to  be  the  traveling  man's  home.  The  Lithia 
water  seems  to  drive  the  dust  from  his  throat  better  than  any 
beer  or  cider  he  may  be  able  to  obtain.  There  are  three  news 
papers  printed  in  the  place,  but  the  Ledger  seems  to  be  the 
best  paper  of  the  town.  There  are  several  large  book  firms 
of  which  Messrs.  J.  A.  Brady,  and  C.  Lewis  Ahrens  are  the 
principal.  Attica  is  a  shipping  point  for  the  Sterling  Remedy 
Company.  They  are  located  in  a  fine  building  on  one  of  the 
principal  streets.  They  are  doing  a  big  business,  employing 
from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  young  ladies  and 
gentlemen. 

I  shall  attempt  to  describe  in  a  brief  way  this  beautiful 
health  resort.  It  is  near  the  Wabash  river,  in  Indiana,  near  the 
city  of  Attica.  Attica  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Chicago 
and  Eastern  Illinois  and  Wabash  railways.  The  Lithia  Spring 
is  a  deep  well  1500  feet  deep.  It  is  a  fine  mineral  water  con 
taining  lithium,  sodium  and  other  combinations.  This  hotel 
is  one  of  beauty,  being  airy  and  cool.  It  was  opened  in  April 


128 

1900,  by  W.  C.  Furman,  a  wealthy  man  of  Chicago.  It 
contains  many  fine  parlors,  halls,  new  furniture,  hardwood 
floors  and  fine  rugs.  All  the  rooms  for  guests  are  outside 
rooms,  sixty  in  number.  Each  room  supplied  by  a  call  bell, 
electric  light  and  steam  heat.  The  dining  hall  is  large,  beau 
tifully  lighted.  One  of  the  decorations  of  the  dining  room  is 
a  china  cupboard  filled  with  hand  painted  china,  made  by  the 
landlady.  Through  the  month  of  June  there  were  three  hun 
dred  guests  at  this  hotel.  It  was  my  pleasure  to  stay  there  in 
August  of  1900,  and  I  enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  both  family 
and  the  sociability  of  its  guests,  and  shower  baths. 

The  plan  of  the  home  affords  a  homelike  place  for  all, 
being  so  clean  and  cool,  then  the  pleasant  family  of  the  land 
lord,  W.  C.  Furman,  adds  greatly  to  the  charms  of  the  place. 
Then  Doctor  Boiling  and  wife  are  so  very  pleasant  to  the 
visitor  it  makes  the  place  indeed  a  home. 

Then  there  are  many  other  attractions,  tennis,  golf,  cro 
quet,  tether  ball,  and  almost  any  game  one  may  choose.  Then 
entertainments  are  often  held  in  the  house.  August  16  and  17, 
the  Chicago  Glee  Club  entertained  us  with  their  cheerful  songs 
and  comedies.  One  song,  "Tom,  Tom,  the  Piper's  son  stole  a 
pig,  and  away  he  ran,"  another  laughable  song;  "A  seein  things 
at  night."  Miss  Irene  Horner  the  soprano  with  the  Glee 
Club  is  a  very  fine  singer.  Miss  Ardela  Davis  is  the  pianist. 
The  members  of  this  club  are,  F.  W.  Garn,  first  tenor;  D.  F. 
Thomas,  second  tenor;  H.  Campbell,  baritone;  C.  H.  Dixon, 
basso  and  manager.  If  you  hear  them  once  you  want  to 
hear  them  again. 

Mr.  Dixon  of  this  club  is  a  nephew  of  Reverend  Tullis 
a  Methodist  minister  of  note,  who  held  a  pastorate  at  Normal, 
Illinois,  two  years  ago. 


129 

The  view  west  from  the  hotel  is  very  beautiful.  The 
trees  along  the  river  bed  then  towering  hills  to  Williamsport 
the  capital  of  Warren  county. 

This  health  resort  promises  to  be  one  of  great  interest 
in  the  years  to  come.  Here  we  meet  many  very  fine  people. 
A  Mrs.  Leland,  of  Buffalo,  New  York,  who  has  resided  at 
both  these  springs.  She  prefers  them  for  a  quiet  home,  also 
for  their  fine  bathing  facilities.  Very  many  interesting 
features  are  connected  with  trips  to  these  great  health  resorts. 
A  very  noble  lady  whose  home  is  on  Wabash  avenue,  Chicago, 
who  is  a  fine  reader;  in  reading  the  poem  entitled,  "George 
Washington,"  she  turned  to  an  attentive  listener  who  also 
resides  on  Wabash  avenue.  She  asked,  "Mr.  L.,  do  you  know 
who  George  Washington  is?"  His  reply  was,  "I  see  him 
often.  He  is  the  colored  man  who  scrubs  my  stone  steps.  He 
lives  on  Armour  avenue."  A  traveling  man  from  Boston  de 
clared  he  was  mistaken  for  George  Washington  was  dead. 
That  he  had  attended  his  funeral,  February  14,  1900,  at  Mt. 
Vernon,  D.  C.  So  you  see  there  is  a  variety  of  opinion  in 
these  matters  and  you  see  these  men  are  both  mistaken  and 
both  are  intelligent  gentlemen.  They  were  trying  to  find  out 
what  George  Washington  I  meant. 

Inflammatory  rheumatism  so  often  obstinate  under  ordin 
ary  medicinal  treatment,  yields  in  much  less  time  under  the  in 
fluence  of  mud  baths  than  in  the  use  of  drugs.  The  high  tem 
perature  is  often  reduced  to  normal  in  a  few  days,  the  pain 
and  swelling  of  the  joints  is  rapidly  ameliorated,  and  the  dura 
tion  of  the  disease  is  shortened  to  a  week  or  ten  days.  The 
soreness,  stiffness,  lameness  of  the  joints  and  muscles  is  soon 
relieved,  and  the  patient  who  could  not  move  without  suffering, 
finds  that  he  can  exercise  with  comfort.  Many  physicians 
agree  on  the  wonderful  curative  powers  of  the  so-called  Mud 
Bath. 


130 

The  Lithia,  springs  hotel  is  new.  It  is  beautifully  located 
on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  of  4,000  inhabitants  on  an  eminence 
insuring  pure  air  and  perfect  drainage.  Every  room  is  an  out 
side  room. 

It  was  built  especially  as  a  health  resort.  The  bath  de 
partment  is  under  the  same  roof,  thereby  requiring  no  exposure 
to  and  from  the  bath.  The  mineral  water  piped  into  the  hotel 
discharging  10,400  gallons  an  hour.  A  diet  kitchen  has  been 
provided  so  those  requiring  special  foods  can  be  supplied. 


131 


THE   MAN  OF  ATTICA. 


Over  in  Indiana, 

The  good  old  Hoosier  state, 

I  met  a  man  of  Attica, 

Who  had  something  to  relate. 

He  had  some  stomach  trouble, 
His  liver  was  out  of  gear, 
His  kidneys  were  all  upset, 
But  he  had  still  more  fear. 

He  had  sciatic  rheumatism, 
Perhaps  a  little  gout,    ' 
And  if  you  follow  closely, 
You  will  find  the  thing  all  out. 

He  felt  that  satan  held  a  claim, 
Against  his  natural  life, 
But  then  he  came  to  Lithia  Springs, 
And  came  without  his  wife. 

They  gave  nice  things  for  him  to  eat, 
And  Lithia  water  him  to  drink, 
They  piled  him  up  in  mud  a  heap, 
And  he  had  naught  to  do  but  think. 

He  fell  asleep,  he  dreamed  a  dream, 
There  in  his  bed  of  sticky  mud, 
When  all  at  once  the  doctor  came, 
And  gave  him  such  a  thud. 


132 

He  dreamed  that  God  was  the  giver, 
Of  health-giving  Springs  in  Indiana, 
That  a  city  on  a  beautiful  river, 
Was  Attica  on  the  Wabash. 

The  hotel  is  a  mansion  alone, 

Built  in  old  colonial  style, 

It  matters  not  whether  'tis  wood  or  stone, 

It  is  filled  up  all  the  while. 

The  landlord  is  a  Furman, 
Although  he  is  not  a  bear, 
His  wife  he  quite  often  fans, 
She  calls  him  Willie  fair. 

A  new  doctor  has  set  his  ball  rolling, 

He  comes  recommended  from  Fort  Wayne, 

His  name  is  Lewis  Boiling, 

He  is  an  expert  in  curing  pain. 

Now  friend  I  have  awakened  quite, 
From  my  very  beautiful  dream, 
Now  I  will  go  and  a  new  poem  write, 
Down  by  the  Wabash  stream. 

Attica,  Indiana,  August  8,  1900. 


133 


INDIANA   MINERAL  SPRINGS. 

Near  the  ancient  city  of  Attica  on  the  classic  "Banks  of  the 
Wabash,"  Indiana  Mineral  Springs,  are  located.  The  place  is 
skirted  by  rugged  Pine  Creek  and  it  nestles  among  oak,  hickory 
and  elm  trees.  Rising  amid  the  hills  and  foliage  are  the 
hotels  and  buildings.  There  from  the  front  verandas  is  a 
pleasant  view  of  farm  lands  down  the  little  valley.  Here  and 
there  are  pagodas  and  pavilions  that  shelter  these  Lithia 
Springs,  that  furnish  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  water.  This 
water  is  used  for  all  purposes.  Below  the  springs  is  a  great 
Magno  mud  deposit.  Many  rheumatic  patients  are  packed 
in  this  mud  and  then  bathed  in  Lithia  water  and  cured. 

There  is  enough  life  about  the  place  to  make  it  lively, 
and  quiet  enough  to  make  it  restful.  There  is  good  compan 
ionship  for  those  who  wish  social  life  and  isolation  for  those 
who  wish  it.  At  the  time  of  niy  visit  to  these  springs  there 
were  near  two  hundred  guests  there. 

A  vegetable  garden  is  cultivated  on  the  grounds,  a  herd 
of  high  bred  cows  give  the  milk,  butter  and  cream  supply. 
The  hotel  and  grounds  are  lit  by  electricity  and  the  water  is 
available  from  hydrants  and  dippers  wherever  reasonably  de 
sired. 

This  place  is  melodious  all  day  with  songs  of  myriads  of 
wild  birds  and  there  are  all  the  delights  of  a  country  home, 
with  the  conveniences  of  the  city  as  to  domestic  appointments. 
So  this  place  is  not  only  possessed  of  curative  powers  but  a 
beautiful  pleasure  resort.  These  springs  are  located  some  five 
miles  north  of  Attica.  Pine  Creek  takes  its  name  from  the 
pine  trees  on  its  banks.  There  is  an  established  postoffice  at 


134 

* 

the  Indiana  Mineral  Springs  where  a  large  amount  of  mail  ar 
rives  each  day.  The  hotel  is  a  large  fine  building  with  a  new 
addition  now  under  construction  that  will  cost  twenty-five 
thousand  dollars.  An  electric  light  plant  illuminates  the  hotel 
and  surroundings.  The  bath-rooms,  there  are  none  finer  in 
this  country.  They  are  wainscoted  with  brown  marble  and  the 
floor  of  mosaic  tile. 

The  bath  tubs  or  porcelain  and  large  size.  The  trimmings 
are  polished  nickel.  .Leaded  art  glass  windows  of  large  size 
admit  a  subdued  light,  lending  a  pleasing  effect  to  the  interior. 
It  reminds  one  of  the  famous  baths  that  we  read  of  in  the  early 
days  of  Rome. 

H.  L.  Kramer,  assisted  by  his  brother,  B.  C.  Kramer,  are 
the  able  managers  of  these  springs.  The  Lithia  water  tubs  are 
Tennessee  marble.  Marble  slabs  are  in  use  for  massage  treat 
ment. 

The  curative  powlers  of  the  mud  and  water  were  accidently 
discovered  by  one  Sam  Storey,  a  fitcher,  who  was  troubled  badly 
with  rheumatism  and  scrofula.  Every  one  thinking  the  work 
in  the  ditch  would  be  his  certain  death  but  as  he  got  well  instead 
they  saw  at  once  that  the  mud  and  water  had  performed  the 
cure.  And  there  is  a  chapel  which  was  dedicated  the  last  of  May 
and  services  were  held  there,  so  that  the  visitor  at  the  springs 
is  not  denied  his  church  privilege  on  Sunday.  There  are  many 
nice  things  I  could  say  about  the  springs.  But  go  and  see 
and  try  the  mud,  used  in  the  baths  of  the  mineral  springs  of 
Attica. 


135 


SUCCESS. 


Almost  every  great  achievement  in  the  world's  history, 
like  liberty,  has  had  to  win  its  triumph  through  opposition, 
through  insurmountable  obstacles,  and  often  through  blood 
itself.  It  is  downright  hard  work,  indomnitable  energy  and 
and  perseverance  which  found  the  world,  mud  and  left  it  mar 
ble,  which  found  civilization  in  the  cradle  and  elevated  it  to 
the  throne.  A  constant  struggle,  a  ceaseless  battle  to  bring 
success  from  inhospitable  surroundings,  is  the  price  of  all 
achievement.  The  man  who  had  not  fought  his  way  up  to  his 
own  loaf  and  does  not  bear  the  scars  of  desperate  conflict,  does 
not  know  the  highest  meaning  of  success.  There  is  scarcely 
a  great  man  in  history  who -has  not  had  to  fight  the  way  to 
his  eminence  inch  by  inch,  against  opposition  and  often 
through  ridicule  and  abuse  of  friends,  as  well  as  enemies. 
Even  Washington  was  threatened  by  a  rude  mob  because  he 
would  not  listen  to  the  clamor  of  the  people.  The  Duke  of 
Wellington  was  mobbed  in  the  streets  of  London,  while  his 
wife  lay  dead  in  the  house.  Bruno  was  burned  in  Rome,  for 
revealing  the  heavens  and  Versalins  was  condemned  for  dis 
secting  the  human  body.  Roger  Bacon  one  of  the  greatest 
thinkers  the  world  ever  seen,  was  terribly  persecuted,  his 
books  burned  in  public,  and  he  was  kept  in  prison  for  ten 
years. 

Barnum  began  the  race  in  business  life,  barefoot.  At 
the  age  of  fifteen,  he  was  obliged  to  buy  on  credit  the  shoes 
he  wore  to  his  father's  funeral.  His  museum  was  burned 
several  times,  and  he  met  with  reverses  which  would  have  dis 
heartened  most  men,  but  he  had  that  pluck  and  grit  which 
knows  no  defeat. 


136 

Robert  Collyer  brought  his  bride  to  America  in  the  steer 
age.  He  worked  at  the  anvil  in  Pennsylvania  nine  years.  By 
hard  work  he  became  one  of  the  greatest  of  preachers. 

Columbus  was  dismissed  as  a  fool  from  court  after  court, 
but  he  pushed  his  suit  against  an  incredulous  and  ridiculing 
world.  Rebuffed  by  kings,  scorned  by  queens,  he  never 
swerved  a  hair's  breadth  from  his  great  purpose. 

Seven  shoemakers  sat  in  Congress,  during  the  first  cent 
ury  of  our  government,  Roger  Sherman,  Henry  Wilson,  Gid 
eon  Lee,  John  Halley,  H.  P.  Baldwin  and  Daniel  Sheffey. 
Gallileo  discovered  greater  things  than  has  any  one  else,  with 
a  great  telescope.  Gifford  worked  his  intricate  problems  with 
a  shoemaker's  awl  on  bits  of  leather. 

John  Brighton,  the  author  of  "The  Beauties  of  England 
and  Wales,"  used  to  study  in  bed  because  too  poor  to  afford 
a  fire. 

The  great  founder  of  Boston  University  left  Cape  Cod 
for  Boston,  to  make  his  way  in  the  world  with  only  four  dol 
lars.  But  he  was  not  afraid  of  obstacles  nor  hardships.  "He 
could  find  no  opening  for  a  boy,"  any  more  than  Horace 
Greely  could,  so  he  made  one.  He  found  a  board  and  made  it 
into  an  oyster  stand  on  the  street  corner;  he  borrowed  a 
wheelbarrow  went  three  miles  to  an  oyster  smack,  bought 
three  bushels  of  oysters  and  wheeled  them  to  his  stand.  Soon 
his  little  savings  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  thirty  dollars, 
with  which  he  bought  a  horse  and  cart.  This  poor  boy  kept 
right  on  until  he  became  the  millionaire,  Isaac  Rich. 

See  young  Disraeli  sprung  from  a  hated  and  persecuted 
race,  without  education,  without  opportunities,  pushing  his 
way  up  through  the  lower  classes,  through  the  middle  classes, 
through  the  highest  classes  until  he  stands  self-poised  upon 
the  topmost  round  of  political  and  social  power.  Scoffed, 


137 

ridiculed,  hissed  from  the  House  of  Commons,  he  simply  says : 
"The  time  will  come  when  you  shall  hear  me."  The  time 
did  come,  and  the  boy  with  no  chance  swayed  the  scepter  of 
England  as  prime  minister  a  quarter  of  a  century. 

Thomas  Carlyle  and  Hugh  Miller  were  masons;  Dante 
and  Descartes  were  soldiers ;  Jeremy  Taylor  was  a  barber ; 
Cardinal  Wolsey,  Defoe  and  Henry  Kirke  White  were  butch 
ers'  sons;  Faraday  was  the  son  of  a  blacksmith  and  his 
teacher,  Bunyan,  a  tinker  and  Copernicus  the  son  of  a  baker. 

Richard  Cobden  was  a  boy  in  a  London  warehouse.  His 
first  speech  in  Parliament  was  a  failure,  but  he  was  not  afraid 
of  defeat,  and  soon  became  one  of  England's  great  orators. 
About  1840  a  lad  who  had  come  from  the  Catskill  Mountains, 
where  he  had  learned  the  rudiments  of  penmanship  by  scrib- 
ling  on  the  leather  of  a  Quaker  shoemaker,  (for  he  was  too 
poor  to  buy  paper)  till  he  could  write  better  than  his  neigh 
bors,  commenced  to  teach  in  that  part  of  Ohio  which  has  been 
called  "benighed  Ashtabula."  He  set  up  a  writing  school  in  a 
rude  log  cabin,  and  threw  into  the  work  the  spirit  that  few 
men  possess.  He  caught  his  ideas  of  beauty  from  the  waves 
of  the  lake  and  the  curves  they  make  upon  the  white  beach, 
and  from  the  tracery  of  the  spider's  web.  Studying  the  lines 
of  beauty  as  drawrn  by  nature's  hand,  he  wrought  Out  that 
system  of  penmanship,  which  is  the  pride  of  our  schools — the 
Spencerian. 

Teach  youth  that  labor  is  the  great  schoolmaster  of  the 
race,  and  that  industry  and  perserverance  are  the  price  which 
all  must  pay  for  distinction ;  that  it  takes  nerve  to  wear  old 
clothes  when  ones  schoolmates  are  dressed  in  broadcloth;  it 
takes  courage  to  say  no  when  all  the  world  says  yes. 

Show  young  men  and  young  women  that  to  succeed,  they 
must  pour  their  whole  hearts  and  souls  into  their  work,  they 


138 

must  be  fired  by  a  determination  which  knows  no  defeat, 
which  cares  not  for  hunger  or  ridicule,  which  spurns  hardship 
and  laughs  at  want  and  disaster ;  and  that  he  would  get 
the  most  out  of  life  must  fight  his  way  up  to  whatever  worthy 
prizes  he  would  win. 

"Success  like  some  soft  fairy  veil 
Will  cover  the  deeds  of  men. 
It  makes  1jhe  ugliest  wrong"  look  right, 
And  all  seem  fair  again. 

"Then  in  thine  own  cheerful  spirit  live, 
Nor  seek  the  help  that  others  give, 
F'or  thou  thyself  erect  must  stand, 
Not  held  upright  by  other's  hand." 


139 


WHEN  THE  SUN  GOES  DOWN, 


All  nature  seeks  a  quite  rest, 
And  lulls  to  sleep  on  mother's  breast. 
The  daisy  shuts  her  bright  blue  eye, 
When  the  sun  goes  down. 

The  children  cease  their  mirthful  play, 
The  stars  do  shine  through  twilight  gray, 
The  weary  plowman  homeward  plods  his  way 
When  the  sun  goes  down. 

The  soldier  sleeps  with  a  vague  unrest, 
While  the  sentinel  doth  watch  with  a  frown. 
At  his  post  in  the  great  wild  West 
When  the  sun  goes  down. 

The  ship  is  rigged  and  manned  for  the  night, 
The  sailors  and  mate  then  fall  asleep, 
But  often  awakened  with  storms  that  fright 
When  the  sun  goes  down. 

The  day  lily  opens  her  beautiful  bloom, 
The  night-blooming  cereus  encircles  the  night. 
The  rattlesnake  dies  that  was  killed  at  noon 
When  the  sun  goes  down. 

Near  Judea's  hill  on  Bethlehem's  plain, 
Jesus  the  Christ-child  there  was  born. 
To  guide  poor  fallen  man  alone. 
When  the  sun  goes  down. 


noo 


